Hank

On 22/07/2023 at 06:43, difflock said:

Either, but with functioning brain activated, and an interest in actually finding and fixing the problem.

This dysfunctional fornicator that calls himself a plumber had already bent the daughter over with the central heating leak, from a simple coal fired back boiler system, again in this tiny conventional terrace house, and again he had to come back a 2nd time, because "air was getting in". Not because he failed to check or add Fernox or other such treatment.

And he charged her exhorbinately.

I had forgotten that episode.

P.S.

(i)She is trying to be independant, and (ii) does not wish to get me involved, cos I aint actually a "plumber", this  because of insurance/liability reasons in a rental property. She is very particular like that, needlessly so probably.

Does her landlord not take care of stuff like that??

I didn't used to mind the initial work because the job almost always went ahead. I've started charging now though. 

Different industry here (timber frame carpentry) but one thing that has really stood out to me this year is the amount of ghosting going on from prospective clients. I've had plenty of people asking for quotes and drawings and such, which I usually just absorb into the final cost of the project, except this year all but one of those enquiries has ghosted me. Infuriating. 
 

Are tree companies experiencing anything similar? It's so rude!

How have you been getting on with it all @Roebus

Thanks for all this guys. Interesting about the depth gauges, will give that a go.

The bar and chain look ok. I filed the bar to get rid of the grooves and the chain moves freely through it. Incidentally should the chain be tensioned different for ripping than for crosscutting?

The air filter is clean - haven’t put a new spark plug on yet but that was high on my list of things to do.

My reason for thinking the saw is running ok is because it’s very responsive on the throttle and sounds good. I could be wrong tho... I’m not saying by any means that’s a foolproof test of whether a saw is good but I think it’s positive at least. I’ve yet to try a crosscut chain on it (don’t have one).

Thanks again.

Hi all. I recently picked up a Stihl MS660 running a 36” bar and ripping chain to go with a Granberg Alaskan Mill. 
 

So far I’ve run it through some unseasoned 14” oak and it hasn’t been performing particularly well. It seems to run out of steam at the slightest push into the log and generally struggles to get through the whole thing. Another thing, the planks I’m milling are only about 1.5m long and in that time it goes through about a tank of petrol. I know milling is fuel intensive but that seems quite a lot...

The chain is sharp and the saw appears to be running well ... until I start milling. I’m also using wedges to avoid any pinching. 

Any help appreciated!!

I put a chain around it where it started to lean and then a strap slightly higher up where it changed direction and then did a dogtooth cut at the base. I was aiming for it to fall just to the right of the two smaller trees in front of it and that's exactly where it went.

Those dead limbs were quite deceiving as the trunk was still in good condition; that probably helped in keeping it a controlled fell with no nasty surprises.

All's well that ends well. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for all the replies. Quite frankly I'd love to dynamite this tree, that'd be brilliant.

Just now, tree-fancier123 said:

Soz, not knocking your can do attitude. What about a ratchet strap round it as a bit of insurance? 

That's a good idea. 

I guess what I was asking in a roundabout way was whether I was right in thinking it'd be safer to cut from a few feet up where it straightens out, or whether to go from the base. Going from the base where it's twisted and bends makes it a bit more unpredictable imo, hence wanting someone else's thoughts!!

8 minutes ago, Cheesy pete said:

is the second stem alive? if it is it's pretty easy

It is yeah.

Thanks for all the replies, appreciate it. The landowner isn't going to pay to get anyone in unfortunately and the tree is coming down regardless (I'd rather do away with the pens and leave the woods alone but that's another matter), so I figure better I do it with what experience I have rather than someone with no experience at all.

A dog tooth is what I was planning with the aim of bringing it down just to the right of the tree in the last photo...

4 minutes ago, Treeation said:

If you asking the question how to do it, in my opinion you shouldn't even attempt to do it, get a pro in. Lots to go wrong if you dont know what you are doing. Leaning trees, especially of that size, requires skill and experience to fell it safely. Not worth risking your life over.....

 

Well yes I agree. I haven't done it yet and haven't decided whether I'm going to. But I still want to hear what others would do...

A local 'keeper has asked if I can take down this tree as it's leaning over one of his pens. As you can see it's a bit all over the place so I'm looking for some input on the best way to approach it - I was going to start a few feet from the base where it straightens out. 

13 hours ago, Stubby said:

Yep I kinda  new that Matty . I just thought the op was under the impression he would have get a new drum being un aware you can get 3/8 in small spline . Sorry for the confusion bud !

I was unaware you could get 3/8 in small spline! I actually contacted Rob at Chainsawbars about this who also advised me to get new drum as well as rim.

I switched it back to .325 today. I thought you had to have a different sprocket to run the larger rim for 3/8 but the sprocket that came in the .325 kit is the same as the one that was running 3/8 so I'm stumped. Could have saved myself £20 and just got the .325 rim it seems!

Just noticed on this saw that it's running a 3/8 chain having bought a new .325 bar and chain for it. FFS.

Are there any preventative measures that can be taken?

10 hours ago, spuddog0507 said:

3.7m =3.7 meter product lengh, 18cm TDUB = top diameter of sawlog under bark 

Thank you! ?

1 hour ago, Big J said:

3.7m the lot of it, down to 18cm TDUB except for the more fluted butts, where I would take a 2.5m length off first before going onto 3.7s.

That may as well be a different language to me??

apologies for being a noob

18 minutes ago, Stoke Wood Project said:

Nope. That's not worth anything. I'll come and pick it for you if you like!

Ha ha perfect I’ll leave the gate open for you.

Interesting. It's near Andover, about 15 minutes from the A303.

A bloke I know owns some woodland near me and has asked me to clear some red cedar out of it. I'm yet unsure how many trees, probably around 50. Pictures of a few of them below.

My question is (actually I have loads of questions) is it worth anything? I can get it roadside and as I want to get into hand cutting I'd sure like the practice and to gain the experience etc.

So, is it worthwhile?

I mean none of it is very clear is it

30 minutes ago, Dan Maynard said:

A wise man once said to me problems that go away by themselves can come back by themselves.

I'd want to know why it locked if at all possible.

That's why it's going to Spud when he's got the time!

13 hours ago, Mesterh said:

Ah, didnt see your post saying you got it working, what was the issue causing it to lock up?

 

No idea! Came back to the bench to have another look at it and without doing anything could turn the flywheel no trouble.