departed

I find them the same fit as Haix (when some others had to have Haix a size up).
The fell hunters do feel a bit big and clumpy when new but soon ease up and it is good to be able to walk through deep slop and keep warm dry feet [emoji3] 

Thanks for that. I reckon I’ll give them a go.
My trouble is that I’ll have to drive an hour to try a pair hence normally sticking with what I know will fit.
Cheers matey.

I'm now on my fifth pair of Arbortec fellhunters and so far they have remained usable to the bitter end, start off as best boots and end up being beaten to death in the workshop. Used to wear Haix but found the soles parted company and the steel toe caps fell out.
 
My other half is a keen trail runner and recently had her favourite pair of shoes resoled in Vibram by Cheshire Shoe Repairs mail order service ..... very impressed with their workmanship [emoji846]

How do Arborec fellhunters fit compared to meindl or haix?
I usually wear meindl wood walkers but they don’t stay waterproof for very long and I like the look of the fellhunters’ extra height for ankle support.
Thanks.

I’ve got an echo 501sxh. Fantastic saw, light and powerful, I run it with a 13” 0.50 bar and chain and it’s a beast.
The downside is the anti vibe. It’s on rubbers and I suffer because of it. You may not have an issue, many don’t, but I think you should be aware before you consider buying one. The husky and Stihl are much better as they’re on springs.

People have been stabbed in Croydon for less....  Hedge hogs should be a protected species. K

What? They are a protected species.

Stein sentinel long leg. Very comfy trousers [emoji106]

Chainsaw Training with Phil Dunford : Welcome to Phil's Chainsaw Training Website

WWW.CHAINSAWTRAINING.COM  

Phil is a great instructor [emoji106]

You could also try Dave Uden

Tree Rex is a very nice harness. Light, comfy, good buckles (hard to open but don’t loosen up) only problem I’ve found is the lower D’s are very small. I will get used to them but it’s a challenge to get the crab in sometimes if you’re in a difficult position.
I found the TM too stiff and buckles loosened often, and the sequoia was a real testicle squisher.

I don’t think pesticide ticket expires.
Happy to be corrected though.

Sounds like plan, best of luck.

Definitely worth getting spraying ticket. Pretty pointless cutting and not spraying.
We never used to stump treat though as we found it’s not as affective as spraying regrowth 12-18months after cutting. Our contracts were for 5 years and we wouldn’t get the final payment if any rhodies were still alive on site.
If you’ve got saws then like others have said, start up and hire in mulchers etc as required.

Ha! Sounds perfect, and use a chopper to spray the regrowth right?

I used to do rhodie work in snowdonia. Simply cut and stack or burn then follow up with glyphosate every other year. 5 year contracts.
Bloody knackering work, in crazy locations that machines can’t get to, general winter weather and the insects and heat in summer can make for a very uncomfortable way to make a living.
But there’s money to be made and you get to see great places that many others don’t. A big plus for me was generally don’t have to deal with the public!
Finding good lads can be a challenge but that seems to be the case for everyone in forestry and arb.
I’ll be interested to see how you get on. Best of luck.

Wow! Brilliant work.
Thanks for sharing.

9/10 [emoji17] I’ve not seen a Plane tree in the flesh (or should that be wood?)

Cheers for that link stere, they plastic sledges look ok, and cheap enough at that too, only 14 euro if i've read it right?? (is that only about a tenner?)
I didn't think they'd do steel but seemingly thats wot they advise.
 
Have u bought of that company before?

A quick search online takes you to gedoretools.co.uk and they're selling the sledge hammer for £250, and a spare head for £26. I can only guess that the €14 on that link is the spare head price.
Shame it's so expensive, looks like a handy hammer.

Cheers.

 
I take it stump treatment will be worth the extra effort after the birch is cut??



I'm not sure the effort of cutting and treating the birch will be worth it. I think you should follow what others have said about retaining at least some of the birch.
Stump treatment is very time consuming.
Big j's suggestion of thinning and retaining the best birch in a few years sounds like the best plan to me.

roundup/glycol will not have any affect on the cut stems as it needs to be taken in by the leaves , glycol plugs would work but would be expensive and time consuming for that area if you could use the tube guards then spray say in 2 years time that might work 

Not exactly right, glyphosate works well as a stump treatment but it needs to be a 20-30% mix and it'll need applying directly to the stump, either with a small sprayer or paint brush.

I've used it to effectively treat all hardwoods and rhododendrons up to 2" when painted or sprayed on, if the stump are bigger then you may need to drill a few holes to hold the chemical on the stump.

The stumps will need treating within an hour or so of cutting to be effective too.

I can only advise on ua1 & ua2.
Do your homework for ua1 and it's pretty straight forward.
Ua2 is straight forward so long as you're competent on the saw and semi decent at climbing.

There's a bit more knowledge required because there's another big hazard so the assessor needs to know you're aware of that danger and how to deal with it.

Ua1 is theory & classroom based so a lot of info to take in but I found that once we went into site to see the apparatus everything clicked.
Ua2 is almost completely practical. Don't rush and be safe = no worries!

Hope that helps.

Maybe it's just the picture but is it's lower beak off to one side compared to the top bit?
Looks like it's ready to fly so it should be fine if you leave it alone, but if you've moved it out of the road twice then maybe there's something wrong with it.

Try searching for skillcult on YouTube or his blog online. He's a bit long winded but seems to know his stuff re axes, and other things.
Good advice in the posts above too.

In my experience once the eggs have hatched, the parents won't abandon the nest. Or not as readily as if they were just eggs at least.

I've emailed it.
Might be no good, I took the pic on my phone.

Cheers.

Found one pic of us using a set of aus utility poles to hack a long dead chestnut.
Any good Steve?
I'll see if I can upload off my phone, if I can't I'll email it to you.

The gardener seriously couldn't ID it?

Can't help with your problem but maybe try phil in boduan?

http://prrobertsagricultural.co.uk

Great, thanks for that. I thought perhaps livestock would keep it in check then re lay once its gone tall and gappy.
Great work and thanks for sharing.