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DaveyCrockett

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Everything posted by DaveyCrockett

  1. DaveyCrockett
    I retrained at 40 to work in nature conservation with a fair bit of chainsaw work and forestry involved. It isn't too late, but you might like to find a role which isn't full on physical every day. If you are like me it will take a bit longer to heal up after small muscle and tendon injuries that will always occur and I think I without any rest days it might catch up on you. When trying and possibly failing is better than never trying you will go for it - and you won't regret it.
  2. DaveyCrockett
    The piston slides without rings. Bolting down makes no difference and it seems to heave evenly on all the bolts loosened two turns with rings fitted. The name on the kit is WAR TECH, supplied by Garden Hire Spares (GHS). I tried measuring ring gap. The first ring fitted at the base of the cylinder had zero ring gap, so I think this is the trouble. Would 12 thou be a good target? Thanks for the good advice.
  3. DaveyCrockett
    I have still got the OEM part, so I could try cleaning it up. Thanks for tip.
  4. DaveyCrockett
    It's a new cylinder - part of a kit.
  5. DaveyCrockett
    Yes. No spark plug fitted. Some of it will be the pull of the flywheel magnets. I'll take of the ignition module to eliminate that.
  6. DaveyCrockett
    I'm repairing a Stihl 261 with a non-OEM piston and cylinder kit. It is all going OK, but I'm finding that the piston is nice and free at the bottom of the bore and gets quite tight at the top above the ports. Is it normal to have more friction at the top with a new kit. I didn't check the ring gaps before install and I'm wondering now if I should or go with it as is or take it apart. I'd be grateful for the word of experience. Thanks, Dave
  7. DaveyCrockett
    So far I have drained oil from tank and checked the position of the pick up pipe is sensible - it is. The breather tube has been knocked out cleaned and replaced. The pump assembly pumps oil when the pick up pipe is in a small tube of oil and the piston is rotated by hand in the same direction the worm drives it. The pump assembly, and one piece rubber tube/seal works although it is a cheap pattern part that cost £10. I notice now that the worm on the crank looks damaged. It's like the worm has a double start helix. More worrying, there seems to be play in the big end bearings, which won't help positive engagement with the gear on the piston, not to mention the seals. I'll do a crankcase pressure test but it looks like this saw needs to come apart anyway.
  8. DaveyCrockett
    At the moment I have exactly this problem with a Husky 141, which has the same oil pump. Did you ever resolve this in the end? I am going back to first principles with this tonight and I'm determined to get to the bottom of it.

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