Jimbo 76

Hi island,

2 of us wear Advance X-TREEm by Stihl.

These really are very different from the X-fits we used to wear. They are only class 1 not 2. They have full vents on back and very light weight on rear, sum stretchy new stuff not the toughest when caught on Landy door latches but other than that and the silly zip tags coming off no issues. Very hard wearing on legs some tough ovals things on 6 way stretch. Was bit dubious but works well.

We haven't used in tropics but in Norway last summer in 30 were still bearable.

Cheers,

James.

Will,

I'm sure he meant us too, as for the next few weeks we can bask in the dying embers of our EU membership.

Cheers,

James.

Hi,

We have 12 slabs 3" thick 10 foot long ranging from 12" to 16" in width from memory. They have been milled for 18 months. But I'm based in Surrey not sure if that's too far?

Cheers,

James.

Hi Les,

I had similar issues with both my M-tronic 362's and 661 but stihl fixed even though one was out warranty by a few months for no charge. I think this is because they are aware issues with early ones are common place, I can't be certain but that's impression I got.

If your getting no joy contact Camberley direct I've always found them helpful and they will give you a demo saw in mean time.

Only thing is I had to send them off quietly as the rest of my team run huskies and I couldn't face the "I told you so crap"!

What if you don't want to use wedges, you want to use momentum rather than faff about lugging them to a job, so you do half and half, get it going then slow it down by coming below so the hinge doesn't tear out due to side weight?

What if you want to do the back cut, get as far out the way as possible due to its location, say on a cliff edge then pull it over and you want it to go over as slowly as possible so not to damage say a Golf Tee?

Stephen,

I might be reading this wrong mate but I don't understand how setting the back cut below the hinge in anyway helps.

If you have serious side mass and you want to directional fell you can by selecting the appropriate compound cut as normal and dressing the buttress accordingly.

If you want to slow the decent you can adjust hinge thickness and closing angle of gob regardless of back cut position.

I'm not saying your way doesn't work but I can see no advantages only issues.

And for a large tree you simply will not get it over if your back cut is below.

I never don't have wedges for felling.

But I guess if it works for you on smaller timber and you haven't smashed up the local golf course jobs a good one.

Cheers,

James.

Looking at a "gob" its roughly triangular.

 

The apex of a triangle is the highest point so yes the back cut should be a ways below the apex

MR Treequip

Apex of your cuts. To form the hinge face. Ie the point.

But you knew that anyway....

The simple answer is the back cut should never be below the apex of the gob.

I have offen seen people angle down the back cut towards the gob assuming this will help mechanical advantage in driving wedges etc. This is a massive misnomer. It takes a surprising small amount of holding wood to safely fell a tree. By slanting your back cut you simply decrease the efficiency of the wedges as the largest turning motion is given at 90 to the hinge. I know this sounds counter intuitive but it's the case.

Good placement and correlation of the back cut to hinge becomes more apparent the larger the tree.

If your doing anything over 1.5m you simply won't be able to fell the tree with wedges if your back cut is below the hinge. The mechanical disadvantage will be become apparent.

If you don't believe me try it. I've ballsed it up in the past and it's not fun.

Cheers,

James.

The 5:1 system is now part of the assisted felling ticket. We used the stien system comes fully made up and ready to use. Basically on smaller diameter wood where it saves getting winch out. Other half of ticket is with winches.

Cheers,

James.

Hi Ryan,

I run a 661 on a 28" light bar. Find that with this combination it's well balanced enough to do compound cuts and simple crosscutting. Also we all run 3/8 sthil chain so does not require different reels or files.

We do have a 880 with 48" bar. But all of us will do almost anything to avoid getting it out. With the exception of a few windblown situations it never came out this year and that's not just because it's the only "shared" saw in the company!

Most good dealers will get a demo from Stihl so I'd always try before you spend that money.

Cheers,

James.

Hi Richard

Don't know if this has been covered but a new chain been thrown is not uncommon. Although pre stretched in reality a new chain will stretch further when ran first. Just be aware and tighten after a few min alls good.

As for a thrown chain not fitting that's normal the drive link would have hit your chain catcher. Just find the bugger and use the flat file to remover the burr and your good to go.

Cheers,

James.

Hey Spruce mate,

Good advice ... And I'm probably the opposite 90 percent hardwoods and relatively little soft woods. Knowing your trees is key...

Always happy to learn but how can you uses dogs tooth on back leaners? Don't understand with back tab at 45 degrees and opposite hinge.... ie not offset like a pie cut how you get your wedges in mate? Understand you can get either side but don't you need them directly behind to maximise lift?

Cheers

James

Really.....

550 perfection.... It simply doesn't have the grunt to work all day harvesting timber. Agreed it's a bit Gucci and light but made of tissue paper and has a primer bulb!

Only viable single saw option for a day's work is 60cc small enough to send and fell no changing of saw just fuel and fell.

560v362

362 all day. Robust torquey and on full chisel. Job done.

If anyone really has used both and says 560 there as dumb as me:001_smile:

Sorry to be boring, cannae think of an other inuendo:thumbdown:

 

Is there a site that shows all the different cuts and names?

Recognise some decriptions but never had names for any cuts really.

Hey drink

Mate just do your 32 it's a good course as you learn quite a bit unlike some others that is just ticking a box. You will learn all the compound cuts and how to use them. Also if your a bit confused about terminology it may clarify.

Also sure you know but your description about sap cuts is a bit wrong. Never bore below hinge. You just need 45 degree scores at apex of hinge.

Sorry no puns I'm not that smart.

Cheers,

James.

Hi guys.

Dogs tooth can be done upto two and a half guide bar and is for forward leaning trees only. The back tab is simply at 45 degrees.

Double v cut is only for hand tools as it does not require a bore therefore bowsaw etc can be used.

Split level is for back leaders but is limited by guide bar and can only be used on trees one and a half diameter of bar as ratio of cuts are to be 2:1. Gob as normal then with pushing chain set hinge two thirds of diameter insert wedegs or lever then with 30 45 degree slant under cut from other side set hinge and smash wedegs or heave like hell. In reality mass of tree will dictate limitation. So we use pie on big trees.

Pie cut is just a level cut with holding wood at back and is referred to as such if you leave holding wood in back quadrant as it resembles a pice of pie when felled.

Boring hinge is simply to remove centre holding wood where you are felling a tree more than twice guide bar and can be used on both dogs tooth and pie cuts but not split level.

Cheers

James

Hi Flat,

As covered using an appropriate secondary holding wood cut can negate the risk of a 'barber chair' in a forward leaner i.e a'dogs tooth cut. In this case it's because with a leaning tree the force on the side opposite to the gob is exacerbated due to the further distance these fibres are relative to the hinge and centre of gravity. As covered straight grains like Ash are prone to 'barber chair'

However in forestry we use only really back tab holding cut or pie both the same really. This is because on large trees other holding cuts i.e split level aren't appropriate due to the mass off the tree.

The pie cut allows us more time principly to set wedges etc winch and can be used on forward and back leaders or even in a changeable situation such as high winds where centre of gravity etc are changeable.

In reality if the tree is small diameter we try not to use compound cuts such as dogs tooth as it takes time. However we probably should. Sharp chain and speed allow safe felling so long so as you don't chase the cut.

Cheers

James

Hope this works....

Not sure about your dealer mate, def try before you buy as they come in half sizes and are quite different to other boots you may have worn.

Cheers,

James.

Hi Cornish have some sweet chestnut only a bit maybe 10ton in 3m length ave di 40-90cm not twisted one even maybe over 100cm but I'd have to check. It's roadside in Surrey so maybe a bit far. If your interested could take some pics for you.

Cheers,James.

There is one option for all you arb guys.... Give up the coloured string and come do forestry....never any chance of a good wage....so you give up wishing....but big trees everyday and lots of fun....never a hedge in sight!

The site in the pics is M25 slip road. I'm based in Surrey. Looking for around 30-55 inc vat dependant on species. Cheers.

Hi woodworks, you can run bull lines or cable through pulleys but the must be compatable. So for example no steel cables through aluminium etc.

But the point I wanted to make is understand the distinction between MBS and SWL.

A rope may be rated to 2800kg breaking strain but as its rope is safe working load is a tenth of that. Strops are devisable by 7 and steel cables by 5.

And without a doubt the sheer pin should be the weekest point in your set up. They are meant to sheer and be replaced. The winch has jaws that have non return so no danger.

Also another option cheaper and a lot lighter is a 5 to 1 hauler system stien do one.

Cheers James.

Lukey I can't comment on steep sites however we use,and indeed are required to operate skidder winches on certain SSSi sites. The damage caused by ground compaction is substantially reduced compared to that of our forwarder. However as stated in previous posts can be very time consuming.

Sorry don't haul just cut and forward. No sure if that's any use. Cheers James.

Sorry I meant from other suppliers.... Kinda try before you buy

I know the feeling hence why I only burn my off cuts as get too many of them from waste wood from building projects !

Might be missing a trick mate. We get loads of people who have been letdown with quality in past. So we let them pick any log from any crate and see how well it burns.

Cheesy I know but they love it!

Have some Scott's birch and oak mate but I'm on m25 guessing that's too far.

Good luck though.

Cheers,James