lewisyounger16
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Posts posted by lewisyounger16
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I was thinking something like that don't worry haha!No offence seeing it is Christmas!-
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Nothing makes me happier than just pulling it and pulling it all night long.Uhh, operator error [emoji848][emoji85][emoji85][emoji41] well I’m happy, you’ve had a happy ending tugging away. Must have put a smile on your face.[emoji6]-
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Turns out I was reading the inside of the gun son which is mpa, outside is psi and it has around 160-170 psiYank on it till your eyes water.....what were we talking about....oh yes, compression.....yank on it hard[emoji5] 5-7 pulls, until the needle doesn't rise any more. The first pull should make around 70-100psi on a healthy saw. The rough guide is that a hard first pull will be half of the final compression after 5-7 pulls. The 10mm adaptor will strip off around 15-20psi so bear that in mind. -
I'll check my ms260 and my 026 at the weekend and compare. I gave it about 5 pulls, normal pills not especially yanking on itThe Gunson gauge is OK and fit to measure the compression of small engines unless they have changed the type of valve they use lately. You are measuring the compression with 5-7 fast pulls on the recoil handle aren't you?
The results on another decent machine will be interesting. Fine dirt in the gauze filter is a common issue, probably worth flushing your fuel tank to ensure it doesn't have any chip in it and check your fuel can as well. -
It's running now, turns out the carb was pretty much blocked with something as the little strainer mesh was missing. Replaced it and then ran the saw up and richened the h screw until it sorted itself out. Need to get it running until its hot now. I'll check another saw, I'm using a gunsons gauge with the valve on the tip, pull it over until it stops moving the needle.Crazy dude......you smooth talker! I just like to test the theory of statements I don't believe and in this case, it was a load of bowlocks - should have used a glass full of something alcoholic[emoji33] I wasn't proving a point, more proving that what I thought sounded a bit iffy was in fact very IFFY!
120 is well low and even when damn hot it should pull late 130s or early 140s! Cold it should be 150-170 IMO!
The issue is either with the saw or the method of measurement - just need to find out which and move on! -
New filter. Always a new filter. Good to know about the swelling though.Did you check or change the fuel filter in the tank? The Stihl fuel filter is designed that if 2 drops of water hit it, the fiber swells and stops the flow of fuel. Take the fuel filter out of the tank and blow into it. It should be easy to blow in it. I recommend that you put a new fuel filter in. The part number is 0000 350 3500 or you can also use 0000 350 3518. If this unit is the m-tronic, did you remove the servo and check for dirt in it?? -
I was put off by those when researching as you could allegedly damage a transfer or something if a stone snags them.You can get spring loaded ( three legged ) hones that you can put in a drill . This ensures , pretty much , that it stays round . -
I did my best, used brick cleaner to remove the aluminium transfer then lightly sanded with fine wet and dry and finished with a bit of scotchbrite. Honed as best as I could, it didn't look awful.Did you hone the bore ? The ring do need to bed in . -
It was at around 50 with the knackered piston and rings, I am assuming (maybe wrongly) that the new piston rings need to bed in before the compression rises accordingly. It does sound like an air leak, I think I will pressure test it again just to make sure.That sounds like an air leak . crank seals ? 120psi is on bottom limit don't you think ?
One thing I didn't do was whilst testing turn the crank I don't know it that's a correct method or not. -
Good god I hope so.We need Spud . He will be along shortly I expect .
Worth noting that the crank side is okay, I fitted a new bearing and a new oiler. It ran for a good 25 minutes in the wood fine and dandy cut lovely, then acted as if it was running out of fuel and then this problem started. -
Think it's built in to the carb manifold, I couldn't see any faults with the manifold, but when idling I sprayed some carb cleaner behind the carb as best I could and it would stall. Which makes me think that the manifold is compromised. However I would have though the pressure and vac test would have picked that up.Split impulse line ? -
Came to me "no spark"
Turns out it was a straight fuel. Saved the cylinder, new meteor piston and caber rings great.
Pressure and vac tested @ 10psi for 10 minutes diagnosing a leaking deconp valve, new valve, fixed tests passed.
Compression tested at 120 psi.
New rubbers and diaphragms in carb, new fuel lines top and bottom. New plug.
Ran it into wood and it was fine for about 15 minutes then started to not pick up on the revs from idle without bogging down and stalling, (that's when fuel lines were replaced after this)
Saw will pop on choke and run on half choke until flicked off, then will idle and eventually die, but will not rev unless the trigger is pulsed. Not sure what else to try it's doing my head in, what I thought was a bargain saw is being a total pig.
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A week or so ago I put a 10mm hole in a 2013 ms201t, removed the limiter and turned the H screw counter clockwise about half a turn. I'm just concerned that's the bit I might be wrong with, I searched the Web and found that a 201t stock h screw position is 2 turns out, is that right? And a muffmod one will need to be slightly rich, so does 2 and a half turns out seem right?
Seems to sound okay at WOT with a bit of 4 stroking, I'm concerned it isn't tuned right, but it picks up from idle okay and revs well.
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I smell an intake manifold being needed at some point.560 is technically our best saw but I do like our faithful 357 which in 10 years has never had an issue despite my very relaxed approach to maintenance. [emoji6]-
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Changed careers and went into Machining. Bought it new, used it well and looked after it. New owner is a happy man. Me? Not so much. Mistakes were made.Why..why...why..???
would you sell a 461..
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My 461. Sold it when I changed jobs, miss it a lot. 372xp next I think on my list to buy
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I've looked all over and I can't find what kind of steel they use. I also can't find what kind of steel Oregon, Ozaki or Stihl use.I could be cutting this wood with something totally unsuited for the job and not know about it. I'd also like to know what kind of aluminium Husqvarna makes their pistons from and what rubber is used for the diaphragms in Walbro carbs.
I am not going to sleep over Christmas now thanks to you
But if you're awake santa won't visit you!
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I remember seeing an ad for this on Facebook. The ad said something akin to them using "high quality USA Steel" when question i got told "it's USA Steel, all you need to know" I guess they found a compromise between harness and ability to hold an edge, and ability to be worked easily. Still would like to know what steel it is. And how it's so much better than chains from a multi million dollar companies who have extensive R&D teams who are trying to get the edge on the handful of other multi million dollar companies with extensive R&D teams.
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I've got a hrd 536 with a drive problem (shocker). Took roller off, stripped gearbox and couldn't see any problems, so I changed the position of the arm on the top a few notches so it engages harder. Now the roller will engage when in low revs, but not in high revs, but if you start in low revs, engage the drive then put it in high drive it works. Any idea?
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Manufacturing defect? Hit a chunk of carbon?
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Yeah it holds vacuum but not pressure, but I was wondering if it didn't hold vacuum, how you would check for a vacuum leak.
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Turns out it was my botched attempt at a crank seal change on the flywheel side. Leaking under pressure.
How can you check for vacuum leaks? It held 10 psi for ages, tried squirting some fairy liquid but no bubbles.
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Need to get a pressure tester now!
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Anyone got a rough idea on what a subaru wrx on a 04 plate, with possible headmaster issues would be worth? Also a smashed up drivers side door. Just a thought!
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Troublesome Ms261
in Chainsaws
Posted
Had the running issue again, had to richen the h screw again until it cleared up, might buy an ultrasonic cleaner and try a carb clean like that.