Remember doing a similar module on my L6, there's wasn't alot of options from memory 

Hi All

Dose anyone know where I can purchase a STIHL Scriber Hook/timber scriber please?

Thanks all

Hi All

Dose any know what these 2 shrubs are please.

As always any help would be great.

4 hours ago, daltontrees said:

Did you see the ICF has just added another module to the PME, called the professionalism e-module? Basically a test of knowledge of the code of prefessional conduct? More to worry about.

The ICF is running a couple fo free 'Ask the Assessor' online 1 hour sessions next week, but I don't think you'd be allowed to ask questions about a specific CA.

Yeh I did see that, get why they have added and if it saves a few questions on the interview its good. Downside they will ask more questions on other things maybe.

On 31/05/2022 at 17:09, daltontrees said:

I am resubmitting mine this year, passed all the other bits last time but the CA was knocked back on pretty dubious grounds. Can swop notes with you but can't 'help'.

No worries, I have made a good start but time is running out

Hi all

Just wondering if there's any chartered foresters or arboriculturist with the ICF on here.

Just looking for a little help/guidance with my critical analysis, please

On 17/11/2014 at 20:42, Chris at eden said:

 

Don't buy before you start. I just finished L6 and I probably bought 8 books at the most although I did have a few to start with. If you are doing it with tree life they will tell you where to research as you go along to an extent. Some of the books you won't need. You can get away with it. Depends how loaded you are. Me, not so much.

 

I'm not sure what the subject content is on L4 but with L6 there is a lot of strategic stuff and you can get a lot of research material for free. For example, we had to write a risk management strategy and the main document for the is NTSG which is free to download. Also if you are not a member of the AA you should join and get access to their online database of old journals. They are pretty vital. ISA have a similar online store of old papers also. Its worth trying to find that and sticking a shortcut on your desktop. You can view every paper other than the most recent without being a member.

 

Good luck to all.

Would agree, completed the L6 a few years back and didn't need to buy many books, I found being a member Arb association and have access to there online library was more useful.

Good luck all

What about using an alternative material rather than tarmac.

Flexi pave works well, although cost more, still cheaper in the long run 

23 hours ago, Gajendra said:

Update: I have submitted my appeal. Let's wait and see what happens. There were 45 trees on that roan and 40 of them had dropped kerb within 1.5m from the tree. I know LA will just say that was done before the legislation got changed but how can changing something on a paper in last few years will save those 40 trees if this is wrong? Maybe I am naive but I just don't get it. The distance between two trees is 9m and I only want to build 2.4m dropped kerb in the middle of these tree. Fingers crossed LA will offer me some lifeline.

It sounds like there's planty of room but you have a 2.4m crossing plus a raduis/transition kerb which adds another 1m or so either side which takes it to 4.4m total.

I appreciate they use a different calculation to my LA and I don't know the dbh of the trees, but the bigger tree would a min distance of 2.5m and the smaller tree 2m.

They also like to have the crossing Central where possible.

Hope this makes senses, but basically it's close.

With our local authority you only need a planning application if its a classified road, otherwise is just a vehicle cross over application.

Have they given you the size/measurements specifications for the crossing.

If you know the size/extent of the new crossing you will know how close to the trees it will be.

On 13/12/2021 at 16:22, Gajendra said:

 

Looking at the photo can see why it was refused, based on what we approve/refused within the authority i work with. 

Appreciate other houses have crossing close to trees but what would help your case if you have any recent examples to could use

Hi 

I currently work part time as a tree officer but also work freelance.

I'm based in the west midlands, lots of experience with Bs5837, condition suryvors etc.

I have own inurances, trained PTI, L6 dip arb.

Please drop me a PM for more details

Try acorn, AMEG.

29 minutes ago, Steven P said:

I wasn't sure till you posted the latest photo, developer wanting to get rid of a tree that was in the way, rip out the exiting lawn and trees, put in new turf at the back, and tidy up the hedge along the front and adds to the kerb appeal for a quicker sale.

 

Wouldn't have got as much slack if you'd posted the last pic as well maybe.

 

Just as a question, how much will it cost to repair the house, I assume it is more than just cutting down the tree, plastering inside and repointing outside? I assume some sort of repairs to the foundations are needed? Wondering if given your valuable time for all the chasing about and paperwork (lets say £25 an hour?), the cost for a tree surgeon to fell the trees, and so on, and I would also assume it will cost more to repair the house if the trees are still there? So what is the difference in cost between repair + remove tree (including all those costs) and repairs leaving trees in place?

Another consideration would how do you value the tree, applying cavat value may mean that the tress value is greater than cost of repair. 

31 minutes ago, 1j1o1n1o1 said:

Haha kevin, who put 20p in you buddy? 
 

im going to ignore your question about how many houses we develop because it adds no context whatsoever. The bottom line is these trees are damaging the house. 
 

the tree to the front of the house is stunning agreed, however, it’s causing quite a few issues, for example it’s hitting buses, the council have been contacted many times about it from neighbours sadly, the current owner doesn’t really care and if I showed you internal images you would see why. 
 

If there’s a way to keep the trees without the house being further damaged I’m all ears. 

to clarify, I have the drainage report showing damaged drains, I have a structural report from a chartered surveyor blaming the trees. Do I need anything else? 

 

for everyone else that’s commented I appreciate your replies 

example of internal cracking, mirrored on external brickwork through mortar 

 

Hi

The issue with the branches over the highway is fairly easy to resolve without removing tree, just pruning works.

The issue with the drains, generally a case of repairing your drainage network to current standards, without seeing the report im sure it states a number of defects and lots of root engross via the broken pipe work, personally not enough grounds to remove the tree.

The issue of possible subsidence to your property needs to be investigated properly, so structural engineer report, trail pits dug with soil samples taken for analysis, level/crack monitoring, normal roots found in the trail pit are also sent for identification to.

Without having this level of detail it will be hard to justify the removal of a TPO tree.

There's a few companies now who inject the soil with resin to stabilise clay soils and retaining the tree, Geobear is the one I know of, only seen it used on demos, looking promising though.

20 minutes ago, Mark Bolam said:

The insurance provider will always blame the trees, and come up with as much shite as the surveyor has done.

MB, Mick and Mark J are spot 

Unfortunately if the tree owner is looking to removed the tree as its causing subsidence the local authority will need supporting evidence to confirm this, I'm sure they could  instruct and pay for the reports/investigations etc or go just  through your home insurance.

Looked at few trees today, no acorns!

10 hours ago, Mark J said:

Have you informed your house insurers of your concerns? 

It is unlikely that you will get consent to remove an apparently healthy TPO'd oak(s) without proof that they are the cause of suspected subsidence. The investigations needed to determine subsidence and any tree/building/drainage works which might arise from them will cost far more than paying the excess on your insurance (usually about 1K). 

Heave is only a consideration when trees predate the house and/or parts of the house. 
Phased reductions will do nothing to mitigate the risk of heave.
 

Yep, would be best to go though your home insurance provider as you need to provide supporting evidence that the damage is vegetative Subsidence.

Paying for a tree report isn't going help you much

Nothing stopping its removal. I'm  assuming the bs5837 report recommends it's removal to.

Matthecks Field Guide for Visual Tree Assessment,  is good and cheaper 

Ex army kit bag, got a waterproof lined one. Cheap, strong and lasted me for 15 years 

Pseudoinonotus dryadeus?

maybe to high up for that one?

Have a look on the ancient tree forum. 

Alot of his publications are avaliable free to download, just do a web search