Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Rosanbo

Member
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Rosanbo's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/14)

  • First Post
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

  1. I will try to film it. I'm going to do it no matter what so any help on my questions would be in my best interests. I know it's a small saw, but I'm sure it can do it. I have cut a couple of similar sized trees with it before. Is that Buckin Billy pun ? Nice one if it is.
  2. I'm not a professional I have a MS170 with a standard pico 3/8(?) chain and a 14" bar This is a sycamore tree about 30 ft tall. For convenience I think I will be cutting it about 4 feet above ground It is 23 - 26 cm diameter. The trunk splits into 2 about 15 feet up. I have a climbing rope 40m long / 132 ft measures about 13mm diameter. I am not a climber so I don't know how strong this rope theoretically is. I am going to tie the rope or a strap to the the tree trunk just below where the trunk splits. This will be about 10 ft higher than my cutting point. Should I go higher, which would mean tying to one of the smaller trunks? (I think I should tie to the main trunk). Should I tie the rope around the tree trunk or should I use some sort of purpose made strap? If a strap, can you link to one I should buy please? And in either case any pictures of the tying method would be appreciated. Should I use my climbing rope or should I buy a better rope or a strap 40 - 50 ft long? If not my climbing rope, can you link to what you would recommend? I am going to use a winch to pull it tight then I am going to cut it down. I have been watching a lot of "Bucking Billy Ray Smith" he is really good I hope you will agree. I'll buy some wedges just like Billy Ray uses.... ? Have you got a winch you would recommend? because I am thinking of buying this one I can get it much cheaper than this price. https://www.silverlinetools.com/en-GB/Product/ProductDetail?ModelName=360375 I don't think I will have any problems doing it just looking for some advice.
  3. https://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/chain/90PX.htm Oregon describes the micro lite as "narrow kerf". and says below "narrow gauge 0.043 helps reduce the weight" "Always install 90PX chains on a .043" gauge Double Guard® bar (MLE part numbers) to obtain all the advantages of the Micro-Lite™ system." My chain is a 90PX so seems to be correct The chain I got is .043 But the Stihl branded chain and bar is also .043 Which seems to suggest that the oregon chain and bar are simply the correct specification for the saw. I don't see how you could use anything other than a .043 chain on this bar.
  4. I bought a Chain and bar today by Oregon The bar is 144MLEA074 The chain is 90PX050E The saw is Stihl MS170 The bar says "Oregon Double Guard" on it. The internet shows this bar with a different badge "microlite" The "microlite" blurb says "bar designed to be used with microlite chain" But the chain does not say it is "microlite". Is there a "microlite" chain for this bar ? Is the chain I got good enough? Thanks.
  5. Hello again, thanks for the updates on people trying the piranhas, I will order some P-chains now. I'll try it with my Stihl bar and see how the bar is before buying another. My MS170 chain and bar has seen limited home use, I have had it about 14 years but only use it occasionally for garden trimming, I have felled and chopped up about 3 ash trees and an old dead apple tree (wow that apple wood is hard).
  6. Anyone tried the Piranha chains and bars, for my MS170 14" you can can get 2 chains for £10 and the bar will only cost an extra £7. Whereas Stihl chain is £14 and a bar is about £24, total £38. I thought I might try the Piranha to see how they go. Anyways, I'm also after some advice, whilst cutting with my MS170 (original chain and bar) the chain sparked a couple of times and then slipped off the bar. There are some chunks taken out of some of the drive links and on those drive links the burrs left by the chunks missing cause the chain to stick in the bar groove. I'm wondering whether to replace just the chain or both chain and bar, and whether I can file off those burrs and use the chain a bit more? I saw a video about how to tell if your bar is worn, he said if the chain can be wobbled from side to side when in the bar then the bar is worn. Well my chain wobbles from side to side, but I am going to have to take a look at one in the shop which is new to see what they are like when new. I'm also thinking, might aswell buy a whole new MS170 and use my old one for spare parts, seeing as if I buy Stihl parts, I will be spending £38 on a bar and chain alone. They also seem to have stopped selling the MS170 with a 14" bar from new.

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

Articles

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.