Powerfab

Lanoguard is my vote of choice at present. Really would stay well away from Waxoyl. I never really was a fan but the reformulation a while back has made it half the product it used to be. 

Used dinitrol in the past which is good stuff too, but honestly Lanoguard goes on easily, does a good job of keeping the rust at bay and is easy to top up every year or two with an hours work. 

It has the big advantage of being clear and does not form a skin which lets rust form unnoticed underneath.

I've used it on both SUV's and lawnmowers, tractors etc and its worked well for me. 

Read the traffic signs. 

It's in Southern Ireland and no-one gives it a second glance

When I'd looked at Freelanders previously I was surprised at the low tow rating on them. 

Circa 2000kg IIRC. 

Volkswagen Tiguan 4motion is about the only one that has a 2600kg rating. 

BMW X3 come close, about 2400kg dependent on model. 

Reading the article it seems all the commentators and politicians were concerned about was the new height alarm system in the tunnel causing tailbacks. 

Not one mention about it being overloaded, or any safety concerns. 

On 25/06/2021 at 17:34, Paddy1000111 said:

I can confirm that commercial vehicles are more to insure, at least in my case My car is £168 a year (Volvo v50 2.0 r-design) and my slow as hell transit was £487.... 

You may well be right, but I was pleasantly surprised with mine. 

General pricing / comparison websites, best was around £380. 

Tried Direct Line £197. 👍 result. 

Then decided to put 23yr old son on policy cover - upped it to £510. 😧 Needed cover for him this year as he's getting married and renovating a house so made sense that he had the use. 

Next year I'm hoping to bring it back down < £200 (if he gets the house finished)

@Rich.M. Thanks for the shout out. 

Didn't find a Shogun, ended up with a 2009 Disco 3 commercial which has turned out to be much better than expected. 

The torque converter is on the way out, but the price reflected  enough to budget a replacement when it finally gives up the ghost. So far its held up well and apart from a jerky lockup doesn't prevent it running and towing anything I hang on behind it. 

I think you've got a flat   on the splitter 😁

The GAP Diagnostic iid scanner is supposed to be the go to for all things LR. 

IIDTool - Gap Diagnostic (gap-diagnostic.com) Only problem is it costs £400. 

I've just bought a Discovery 3 myself so interested in the outcome of this. Like Pete, I'm not averse to spending the money if its well spent, but if there's something does 80% of the scanning this one does for 1/2 the price I'm all ears. 

Figures ☹️

I can't see DVLA taking to it lightly, everyone would be at it. Daresay they would want some form of Type Approval for the vehicle. Just seems a shame as the Shogun simply seems to have the seats removed. The back windows aren't even changed out for panels. Probably the commercial Disco's are similar. 

Oh well, back to trawling the classifieds. 

Good question Pete, I haven't yet looked into it. 

Like yourself, commercial insurance for me in a van used to be buttons but that was 15yrs ago so I might be in for a shock. No use if the additional insurance wipes out any saving on the RFL. 

Used to have transit with NFU at a good price, may be time to give them a call. 

I've been looking to buy a SWB Shogun for quite some time now. I need it for utility rather than a car. 

Looking at adverts, they were sold as a commercial with the rear seats removed and resulting with a RFL less than 1/2 that of a car variant. I don't see that there were any other changes. 

How hard would it be to remove the rear seats and re-register with DVLA with the classification changed to commercial?

Anyone done something similar before?

2 hours ago, daveindales said:

I bought the electric Thor 8.5 ton splitter. Can't fault it.

This is the same as mine. Broke down for the first time this week after 18yrs. Broke bowden cable off one of the handlebar levers. Had to rob one of one of the kids bicycles because of this lockdown hassle. 

Can't fault it, gone through some stuff in that time. 

We had several pass through about 2 weeks ago. 

Residents have turned up this morning.

7 hours ago, Stere said:

I have a makita plug in one I use for firewood its good.

 

There is several models I have older version of the more expensive one they do a cheaper one also.

 

Makita UC4051A 240 V Electric Chainsaw: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

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I have this one and it works well & pretty rapid through small stuff. I only use it at the yard for cutting at the saw horse. Keeps the noise down and saves the faff of setting the saw down running whilst loading up the saw horse. Has to be better for the environment and more importantly cheaper to run in this scenario. 

Off course, it would be next to useless for ringing up, but I've two Stihl's for that ?

The only annoyance with the saw is the chain tensioner. It hasn't caused any grief so far, I just find it fiddly and seems to be a "weak link" I'm minded if anythings going to fail on the saw it will be that. 

I've recently bought into the Makita battery range for strimmer and hedge cutter and will probably go to the twin battery version of the chainsaw should this one ever give up. 

Reckon you would only try it once, even if the tractor is man enough to cope. 

The leverage of the loaded trailer that far off the pivot point at the axle would have it running along the road like a bucking bronco. You'd be sea sick after a mile. 

Please, please do not do this, it will be a total and costly disaster. 

As mentioned above brickwork is good in compression, completely rubbish in tension. But that's not why it will fail.

It will fail because all walls, cavity or solid built in the last 50yrs are on a DPC which forms an excellent slip plane for movement. 

I've seen complete two storey gable walls moved on the DPC, in one instance due to the expansion of solid wood timber floor installed without any expansion gap on the perimeter. Hard to believe but the Lounge floor pushed the gable 15mm on the DPC. 

If you find a wall where the plinth is rendered over the DPC, 10:1 odds you'll see movement cracking on the render along the DPC line which has been caused by thermal expansion. 

Bottom line is avoid at all costs. 

Very much depends on their needs and specification. Could they work with Evernote?

Allows them to upload and share any type of information and the Android or iOS apps provide access to anything on the go. 

It may not be suitable for project management although you can make it work with reminders and the like. 

And hang the back actor out as a counterweight. ?

Used to be the only method to get a 2wd to push on through the mud or the front end would dive in. Then it would be time to "walk it out" on the front and rear buckets. ?

I'd put them on par with the Screwfix Erbauer "own brand" but looks like they might be a higher grade than these. 

I'll certainly be taking a closer look at them. They do seem good value for money. 

1 hour ago, topchippyles said:

Einhell Germany AG is a German manufacturer of power tools and electrical garden equipment in Landau an der Isar, Germany.^[3]

All R&D work and management is in Germany, but from Einhells own CSR Report & Sustainability;

"The Asian subsidiaries are also responsible, amongst other things, for product sourcing, product preparation and procurement. Since Production is in Asia, it is also where Quality Assurance is based."

&

"It is a fundamental part of our current business model to have products manufactured in Asia in strict compliance with our own high standards"

There's nothing wrong with that, German quality control should be able to manage the quality of the end product. 

It's like everything, be it Apple or Dyson. R&D in the home country, manufacture in the cheapest economy. 

Its the global marketplace that we all now live in. 

1 hour ago, topchippyles said:

No they will not fit 

Yeah, answered my own question with a Google search over lunchtime. 

You can get adaptor for hand tools but they all add extra depth to the connection. No use when you're trying to slot the battery into a connector. 

I'd like to centralise my cordless use around one manufacturer and a set of common batteries. Problem being its not in the manufacturers financial advantage to agree on one modular battery system. The batteries are where the profit is. 

That's why I'm hanging back on buying at the moment. Although the big players Stihl & Husqv. have a modular battery, how long before battery technology improves again and they all change the connection interface all over again. 

2 hours ago, Stere said:

If you have got makita drills and thus already some batteries & the charger already they do a range of battery mowesr also

 

No first hand experience how good they are though the reviews seem positive (but all in german) Think this is there top cordless model. Says lawns up to 800m3

 

 

makita+dlm460z+review - Google Search

WWW.GOOGLE.COM

 

Makita DLM460Z Twin 18V/36V LXT Cordless 460mm Brushless Lawn Mower Body Only | eBay

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I do have a  makitas cordless hegde trimmer though and its very  good so far.

Does anyone know if De-Walt batteries are interchangeable with Makita, they look very similar?

I've a few De-Walt power tools and batteries and don't want to be buying into another charging system, but not aware of De-Walt doing lawnmowers. 

If you go to Tractorbynet.com there are threads there on thumbs. I recall one in particular was a supplier who made a bolt on thumb kit with offset bolts to wedge it in location. Not something easy to describe it needs a picture to show.

I haven't been on there for some time, you might have to do some searching to find it. Possibly you have to register to view pictures on posts.

There is very little width on the expanding jaws to spread the force in the cut. 

I'd say it's likely that the jaws will just cut into the timber and exert very little useful force. 

The beech might work being hardwood depending on the time of year and how much sap is rising. The softwood I would wager would be a complete fail. 

You might be able to tack weld a couple of metal plates onto the jaws or wedge shims in place before exerting force, but it all becomes a bit of a faff.