njm

5 minutes ago, Mick Dempsey said:

Cutting the branches that reached over his property and approached his buildings isn’t a big thing really, he’s within his rights to trim back to the boundary any time he pleases (without checking with you) summer or winter  (short of spraying the branches with poison of course)

Also, that the previous neighbour had no issues is irrelevant, he bought the house off the guy, not his tastes re. light views etc.

So he’s an incomer? Sounds like that’s his real crime.

 

 

 Did i say the neighbour was an incomer ?  they have lived in the village for some time  , as for me i am an incomer only lived in the village for 12 years .  

No big deal to cut the branches as you say  but it was a considerate gesture to save my neighbour the cost of getting this done  ,possibly why there was no issues before hand   my tree at the end of the day  .

There are a good few moving into rural areas and leveling everything in sight  why move to the country and replicate the concrete jungle you have just moved from ?  each to there own i suppose ..

On 31/07/2018 at 17:34, Mick Dempsey said:

Reading this thread again, the cynic in me says that you only like the tree because it annoys the neighbours.

We live in a very rural location many gardens have a decent size of tree it is part of the character of the village , we also have a few incomers who would rather have a flat concrete landscape  !!!

Over the past 10 years i have had the top branches of the tree trimmed back on the neighbours side any time they were approaching the roof or side of there building . the previous owner and myself had no issue over the tree and there was never any complaint  . 

On 01/08/2018 at 00:06, monkeybusiness said:

Is the pic taken from their (ie the neighbour with the light issue’s) side? 

Yes the pic is from there side  , the front of there property in the picture is facing North so no sunlight there until late afternoon anyway . 

7 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

Because the tree can better react to wounds while active. In this situation it becomes a bit like a hedge which needs a couple of trims a year. The owner of the adjacent property has the right to remove anything trespassing over the boundary so the tree owner has no say in this. I suspect the tree owner will only have an issue if the "trespass" becomes actionable, by damaging the house, at which stage the costs of abating the nuisance will be down to him.

 

If the adjacent land owner isn't happy to keep trimming then I agree with MickD and stihlmad

Thanks everyone for all the advice  .

Just now, stihlmadasever said:

As mick says we see this sort of situation alot.I agree its a crackin tree,in the wrong place though.

I stand by my original recommendation as this tree will just get bigget,cause more neighbourly friction and cost you more money to maintain it in the long run.

Good luck whichever way you decide to go.

Cheers for all the advice it is appreciated 

4 minutes ago, stihlmadasever said:

Repeated work will have to be performed on this tree to prevent it getting out of hand and prevention of neighbourly dispute.

Id seriously consider removal at this point as its just going to get bigger and cost you more long term.

Damn shame cause its a crackin tree but just in the wrong place.

Tree has no affect on my property but the housing to the side was built well after the tree was a good size  , would be a shame to remove a healthy tree i would rather try and keep it  , the neighbour has had the land owner with a tree to the South of the property top his tree after complaining about lack of light  

14 minutes ago, Treeation said:

My thoughts would be that the removal of the outer, overhanging branches have now exposed the shade leaves (in the interior crown|) to direct full sun that may well be the cause to the browning off, as they have not adapted to take the full sun. Any further pruning works would be best in winter or when in a non drought summer. Bear in mind that this a young copper beech which has the potential to grow four times the size,

 

It might be more preferable to raise the crown (which will allow light to the ground floor level. This could be repeated in 5-10 years or so (a few metres every time - maybe 2m above fence level to start with and then to gutter level the second time) which will push the crown higher up. Crown reductions rarely increase much light penetration....and once initatied you will be repeating reductions every 5 or so years which will be quite a cost to bear for no real gain. You could also include a light crown thin too which would involve taking say 10% if the crown out in a systematic fashion as the same time as crown raising to allow a bit more light through but you shouldnt prune too heavy on beech as the the bark is sensitive to sun scorch.

Yes i had considered having the crown raised as i can hardly walk under the branches at this time of year  ,  when the tree was planted by original house owner there was no housing to the side of the property  so the growth of the tree would not have been seen as an issue back then  , thanks 

Hi ,

Not my field so advice required  , 10 months ago my new neighbour approached me about trimming my 25 / 30 year old copper beech on there boundary line  i had no issue as it was agreed that it would be done while the tree was dormant in winter ,  said trimming was ok with no issues but 2 weeks ago in the middle of the hot spell they have now taken a second bash at the tree as apparently there garden requires more light for there enjoyment !   as can be seen there are now rather a lot of dead leaves on the trimmed side of the tree , if they continue will this cause permanent damage to my tree and should  the canopy be reduced this winter to try and keep the issue from escalating ?   Thanks in advance 

Hi there.

 

Just wondering if anyone knows of a suppler for nachi bearings in the uk? and if anyone has changed out the nylon cage bearings to metal ones in the x torq cases.

 

Thanks

 

Elliot.

Looked at this issue when i had a bench overflowing with 560xp bottom ends which had all suffered failed bearing cages in the end i rebuilt 6 with new Husky parts and have had no issue with them , had a couple of 372 x torq's with shot cranks at fairly low hours , lack of air filter cleaning will kill a modern saw fairly quickly

Insurance claims are my pet hate , about 8 years ago a car drove into the side of my vehicle while i was in it and just drove off , i went after him but he refused to stop , Lucky for me the one man band local police man was at his post that day and off he shot and stopped 3rd party 20 miles further down the road , long and short he raised an accident report with the 3rd party at fault , I polished out the scratches and managed to refit the mirror to my car so i never bothered making a claim as it seemed like too much grief , 10 months later MY bloody insurance company sent a snotty letter to me saying i had caused an accident and was held at fault ! the toe rag 3rd party had a company car which had been returned to the lease company damaged so he blamed me , it was like banging my head against a wall for 5 months as there stance was i had not reported the accident to them so i must be to blame ? i gave them the Police reference ect but still they claimed i was at fault , they had not even checked the Police report as " it costs £20 for us to get a copy so could you not just go to the Police station and ask for a copy then we can sort this out for you " They had the cheek to ask why i was not going to renew my insurance with them !

Is the sugi pro light bars the lighest on the market? or is it just a preference

Not the lightest bar on the market but one of the best quality bars you can buy

Yes there should be a sleeve fitted in the rear bolt location

Looking to upgrade the WP36 this year and am looking hard at the Transaw 350 from Fuelwood with the Japa 3 chain log deck. Just wondering if anyone on here is using a similar setup and can give any feedback, also comparison with the Posch s 360 which seems like it's nearest competitor.

 

Happy new year all!

Mate runs a 350 serial number 1 from memory , works well but blade must be sharp , search "Kintyre firewood" on facebook ..

Who they?!

I have noticed it has become trendy to call Hardwood "Cordwood" ! , 1 Cord of green beach is around 2200 kg or 3.62 M3 .

So a 3M green Beach log would be around 1.1 m dia in the center to give 90 cubic feet of wood in the round which is about a stacked Cord 128 cubic feet ,

I am dealing with the finance company direct, they agree the finance should be reversed until the machine is fit to be delivered.

 

They 100% do not own our trade in, the finance was made less the trade in value which they have been paid by the finance company, upon delivery of our new machine we will issue them invoice of sale transferring the machine to them, the machine continues to be in our asset register until this point.

The trade in machine has nothing to do with the finance company , you have a purchase agreement with the dealer which will hand over the title of your trade in machine when the deal is signed , finance is in place and being paid which tells me it is a done deal .

Couple of things that would have me very concerned and seem to be overlooked in this debate

1, They do own the two machines you are using , finance is in place and you are paying it , the trade in belongs to them as does the demo / loan machine .

2, There director is aware of this ( even if you are not ) and has by all accounts made his intention of charging for the hire of these machines if you stop paying the finance , the hire bill will be a monster trust me .

If you fail to pay they will recover there property which is the demo and the trade in machine , you have also defaulted on your finance agreement and will risk loosing the new machine as well

As many have pointed out a Lawyer is required asap

I do not envy the position you find yourself and wish you good luck ..

Good will, and good faith in them to deliver, even after the managing director threatened to pursue me for hire costs for the loan machine and against our own machine.

 

There also exists no other alternative at this time.

 

The finance company are fully aware of the situation and have been for a while, the supplier assured them as they have me that the equipment will be delivered soon.

 

I am venting here, also stressed and concerned we have a big contract to start in Jan the current loan machine is not fit for this job.

 

I must also make clear our situation is not representative of how supply usually goes about from this dealer and is quite possibly an exception and I in no way mean to defame their reputation but feel that going public may cause action "soon" and by that what most of us would consider as reasonably "soon"

TBH there managing director has some balls making threats to pursue for hire costs ect , just remind him YOU are the one financing there delays

Yes it requires an IVA which is currently being dealt with, and is the reasons for delay. The IVA process was started in April as apparently the person in charge of our build hadn't realised it required one.

 

I informed the finance company in July about the situation after the dealer threatened to charge us hire on his un fit for purpose loan machine.

We decided to give them a fair chance to deliver as they assured me it was only "weeks away" but that was from the IVA test and providing it passed.

 

We are liaising with the finance company now to reverse the finance, the initial deposit made in August 2015 will remain and when the machine is fit to be delivered the finance will be started again less the offered discount.

 

And yes it's big and special to us, the issues surrounds engine option pushing weight up something unforeseen at the time.

 

We only want supplier to do the right thing, and arrange finance on delivery less agreed discount. Initially they wanted to pay us this sum on delivery which makes me suspect they knew all along that the finance started contrary to what they said, trying to account for a cash payment into the account is difficult.

I would not be happy with the finance situation , if the equipment is lost ect accidental or otherwise you are liable to repay the finance , if you have been paying finance for over a year that also makes the machine a year old , insurance nightmare .

Looking at buying a 661 from fr jones and taking advantage of the finance option as work is a little slow right now. I heard that if you buy the power head only then the new rules don't apply as it doesn't have an uncovers sharp edge? If this is not the case is there any way around it like sending in copy's o certificates etc?

 

Thanks in advance

Possibly an idea to phone them ?? always helpful any dealing i have had with them ..

The trouble is, since the 70s, oil technology and strokers have moved on a fair bit. I am not disputing the original data and it is a pity two strokes are rarely raced now otherwise there would be more accurate info on this.

Fairly common practice when i ran MX bikes 20 odd years back , tight twisty tracks 50/1 , Flat out forest tracks ect 40/1 there is a big difference in performance , i have witnessed many engines seize due to running in at 25/1 without being jetted to compensate .

If you are lucky or have a bit of skill and patience they can be straightened in a press , all depends on how bent the bar is

Where do I get aspen and what is it? Does super unleaded have a lower ethanol content?

 

 

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Aspen fuel have a dealer finder on there web page , or check there forum on the lower part of the main page , i am a dealer in Scotland , Super unleaded tends to have no Ethanol but this depends on brand and location , possibly all E5 now

No I don't think so .. High octane fuel needs extra hi compression to benefit . It actually burns slower than lower octane . I would run it on Aspen .

As Stubby said Aspen if you can , Less chance of E10 in Super Unleaded and its knock value is higher , i personally run super unleaded if i have no Aspen at hand , ethanol is a pain

Our 365 floods when stood.Has done this from new but the dealer didn't find the problem.

Meter lever pop off pressure low , tank vent ect 576 carb models could be guilty of this if lever height was not spot on .

Hi guys. No still nothing yet. I keep it in the house so I can't think it could be water content due to condensation. I actually have the husky XP oil which I use. Is this the correct stuff? Yea I will try a new plug tomorrow. Might just be a duffer!

 

 

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Is the area the saw stored in heated by any chance ? my 560 will start with no choke from cold if it has sat in the van with the heater on , easy to flood the 550 and 560 and it sounds like yours is flooding , cutting cookies ! you do this to tune the saw have a look at the instruction book or Google it ..