Chipy

There isn't much chainsaw about that, its a side cover.

 

They have used that as an easy way to keep the chain tensioner.

 

You can do the same thing with bolts and washers

Your probably right, has anyone any experience building a hydraulic saw from scratch?

I thought this one looked like he had taken a petrol saw, removed the engine etc and bolted a motor on the side?

Decided to remake my axe so it will be stronger but can anyone put me in touch with someone that's made a hydraulic chainsaw before by attaching a hydraulic motor to a petrol saw etc.

Does anyone know who sells 6 way splitting axes for 30 tonne machines? JASP Wilson price for a posch one is £550. Is that the going rate? The 6 way axe we have made with hardox and LOTS of weld isn't holding. We know how to strengthen it but means re building it so might be easier buying one.

What does everyone think about position of saw when sawing? It's horizontal the whole time instead of pivoting down and up

This any help?

Chipy, not all hydraulic motors can reverse , some of them put the case drain into the return internally which make them directional. Connecting the wrong way will pop seals straight out. Are you sure that you have the flow running round the motor the way intended? The only other thing I can think of is that the return line on the machine is under too much pressure. Easy enough to test, just connect the return to dump straight into the hydraulic tank.

 

Bob

I connected it back up the way we had last time when it ran for half a day fine. Was only when we got it stuck in a log and reversed it to unstick it that it popped it's seals out which is fine I think seeing as it probably wouldn't have high pressure seals for reversing the motor.

Failed to test the pressure today as the kit I borrowed had no blanks in it to put on other end of the tester. The seals also popped straight out again on first attempt at using the saw so I think I'm going to have to forget about that saw unfortunately. Anyone got any alternatives for the saw? How easy it is it building a hydraulic saw using an old petrol one and a hydraulic motor etc or removing the motor off mine and adding an aftermarket motor? Motor for my saw is £700 from Stanley 😯

Here's a picture of the saw setup. Behind saw is the log clamp which also pushes log along to chop at 5 foot.

you need a flow meter not a bucket as an excavator pumps flow rate is worked at pressure i.e 50l/m at 2000 psi so if you don't have a restriction to get your pressure up you will get a false reading

Yeh I know I need a flow meter but don't know anyone with one to borrow so all I've got is the pressure tester for now but will keep asking around for a flow meter

'Keep it Simple'

'Get it working well then working fast'

 

Most of the chainsaw processors I've seen rotate the bar around a pivot and have a handle over the top that the operator draws down to make the cut. Surely that's much more straightforward and less 'numb' than a spring or ram with no feedback or sensitivity? Especially as the flow sounds marginal at best....

 

EDIT: if you really don't want to get the grinder and welder out, and are stuck with your straight vertical movement, why don't you put a spring on as the return and have a cord attached to a foot pedal as the downstroke. Less hydraulic gubbins and a decent bit of sensitivity?

The whole of the machine is operated from in the digger which is why it's hydraulic

I've taken saw to bits and pushed seals back in which had popped out but it was a bit too easy pushing them in so il find out tomorrow whether or not there going to stay in. I've also borrowed someone's testing kit so tomorrow il be able to see what psi digger is kicking out etc and I can easily work out litres per minute by pumping oil into a bucket and timing it etc. When saw was in bits I also noticed motor looked quite worn and so I'm starting to look at alternatives. Is a circular saw going to do the job? Can't find any on eBay so does anyone know of any that will do a 20" log? Someone's suggested a band saw but I've never seen one on a processor before nor a hydraulic one?

It is the CS11 so i need more pressure. Any ideas how to get it from a digger? Alternative might be to find one of these deck saws.

So are you just going to continue to ignore the fact that you don't even have the minimum oil flow, how's the pressure???

 

Adding a ram into the equation wont help, that's just going to demand more pressure and flow that you don't seem to have to spare

I'm going to check it's not the CS06 Stanley saw I have because The guy that built it said we did have enough flow etc so I could be getting mixed up with the 2 saws. I won't be adding a ram because there's already one there to lift the saw, il just replace it with a double acting one.

It's on a lever so I can control the speed

You're saying when it cuts, it's 'pulled' down by a spring to cut??

 

Could it be that it's not being 'controlled' when cutting - you can't slow it / back it off if it starts to stick?

 

We have a Ryetec processor where the operator controls the speed of the cutting blade on the cutting stroke via a variable valve, but the return is spring loaded / pulled back.

Yes a spring pulls it down. Maybe il put a double acting ram on it then and have it pushed down via the ram and pulled back up

I would imagine that it's stalling the digger because it's cutting to one side or the other. Sharpening issue?? Maybe an issue with the chain sprocket not being in line with the plane of the guide bar?

I had the same problem with my WP36 where it would get sticky when cutting larger stuff (>10") and would stall with anything near maximum bar length. Turned out it was a sharpening issue First time I'd ever used an electric disc sharpener and one side was getting sharpened better than the other

It's a brand new chain so it should be sharp. I was going to try an 18" bar on it as apposed to the current 22".

How do all other saws regulate there decent etc and do most have a ram pushing them down or Spring?

Someone's built me a large log processor which I shall be putting some pictures up of when I take some but in mean time, the saw I put on it is an ex hire one which was only £100 and its this one:

Buy Stanley CS11 Hydraulic Chainsaw Underwater Tool at E C Hopkins - Hydraulics - ampnbsp, powered, cs, underwater, greenheart, used, cutting, cut, hydraulic, particular

The way it works is the saw is fixed in the horizontal position and welded to some box section and it goes up and down on a single acting spool. To drop the saw the spool is put into float and a spring pulls it down and we hoped the saw would also pull itself through. It's a 3 tonne digger that runs everything. We tested the pressure at the saw and it was 2200psi and 32lpm which i think is adequate. The issue were having is the saw likes to stick on anything over 12 inch which then stalls the digger. We can fix the stalling issue by altering the bypass thingy. I'm also aware that digger oil can be too thick for saws but I'm willing to try it and see how we get on. I'm wondering is the saws sticking because of it being horizontal unlike all other processors where they pivot at the end?

He actually told me £4500 because I thought he had said £4000 but he then corrected me. Didn't really like Gary's attitude on the phone to be honest. He was as much use as a chocolate fire guard. He wasn't going the right way about trying to sell me a bin. He wouldn't tell me where there were any installed that I could see working which annoyed me and then he thought I was trying to get the price cheaper when I asked if he'd said £4000 because I'd actually forgotten. His tone of voice just really p****d me off!

I'm wanting to make a drying container to dry big logs and ideally waste paper prom envirobed which is like a sawdust material that I bed my cows on. Anyone know the costs involved? Got price off glosta engineering for a 60 yard hook lift bin with drying floor which was £4000 which doesn't seem too bad as long as it will dry paper! I also don't no the costs of the heat exchanger/fans etc?

I'm building a large processing machine and I need a saw but all I can find is this one on ebay

Hydraulic Chain Saw Wood 20" Blade | eBay

Is this as cheap as I'm going to find? I could take an old chainsaw and attach a hydraulic motor etc but by time I've faffed around I might be easier buying a new one? Can't find any second hand ones either?

This is what I had in mind for loading the split wood but with a bigger grab

This is how you load 5 foot logs. My boilers bit smaller than one in picture but that's idea I had in mind. Push off buckrakes work well but would still end up hand balling onto the buckrake I think.

I'm currently loading 5 foot logs by hand that ive split with a cone splitter on my digger but that machine was far too slow.

The posch machine is well built and ours certainly won't be built as well but as long as it works and lasts then that's all that matters.

Sounds like you have already gone off in the wrong direction........

codlasher

I priced the posch 32 tonne machine after having one on hire along with the bundling machine but splitter came out at over 7k and bundler is over 1k. Gone off idea of bundles because there too awkward to handle and load into boiler. They just burst open before you reach the boiler. The splitter was a nice machine but father in law and I believe that we can make a machine for less that does a lot more than just split. If not less then at the most it will cost same price as the posch machine. The reason for the 5 foot lengths was there easier to handle with a machine and easier and safer to stack high up which il do to let it dry. 2.5 feet lengths stacked high won't be very safe. Another factor is that me and the guy chopping the wood aren't the most experienced chainsaw users so a processor is going to make the job safer.

I've burnt 180 tonne in my first year so I'm sick of handling wood and I'm trying to make it all easier by handling it all with a digger and even trying to think of a way of loading the wood without hand balling it in because that really is doing my back in