Cuttup

Whilst ingestion of leaves and berries is considered poisonous, is anyone aware of risk from chipping or burning the foliage, branches or timber form Laurel?

The burning would be foliage on a bonfore and the timber on a stove.

If burning or chipping is not considered safe what would be the best method of disposal?

Thnkas in advance.

What lifespan are people getting out of dead eyes, whoopie/loopies/crane slings etc?

I've read that degradation is not a function of time i.e. just because something s older does not necessarily mean it s weakened. I have old ropes that are unbreakable, but for proper rigging/lowering I don't use them.

Is there specific LOLER guidance on lifespan (I can't seem to find any), or is it just at the discretion of the LOLER inspector.

As far as I know, Petzl, put fabric products at max 10 years and metal products without a specified service life depending on use/condition etc.

Well this has thread has taken a peculiar turn... are you suggesting that these slings/tears can also cause a weakness at the knees of around 20%?

9 minutes ago, Will C said:

To floppy, metal to metal fatigue.
If your worried I would update the dead eye sling.

It's a consideration, I agree, but so is losing 20% of the WLL of a given sling. As I say, just curious. 

Good simple bit of kit. 

This may seem like a strange question, but other than because the manufacturer tells us to....

Why use a girth hitch (choke) to attach a flying capstan (Portawarp etc.)  to a sling or dead eye?

You lose about 20% strength in doing so. Why not attach via a karabiner or shackle?

Sounds like a good wee saw.

I suppose I just need to make sure I'm getting the right class.

The majority of my work is dismantling. I suppose I would just need to use a bigger saw a bit sooner when taking trees apart, as the pay off to having a lower power/smaller top saw

As the title suggests....

Anyone used one? Considering a new topper. Need a decent saw but won't be used 5 days a week.

Interesting thanks. The reason look I mg to stay with 0.58 is all the bars and chains he already has in that size. Will give it a go amd see how it works.

If this is discussed elsewhere apologies....

Can I put a 0.58 bar on instead of a 0.50?

I think its on a Husky 350 (asking for a friend). 

I guess the side casing may not fit correctly and presumably a bit more friction pulling a heavier chain etc, but in theory is this possible?

Fantastic. Thanks guys.

Good morning 

Can anyone recommend a mid-range (affordable) tachometer that can be used for tuning chainsaws?

Great saw. Would be a tragedy to leave that on the shelf. A steal at £200

Thanks guys. Have to say the 024 is quite tempting....

8 hours ago, StephenMews said:

In summer 2 batteries last a day. I reckon a 3rd may be needed for winter.

 

I do swap to a ground saw for larger cuts more frequently than when I used petrol climbing saws. Large cuts noticeable drain the battery

Interesting, thanks. Maybe a consideration for next saw.

I have the unenviable task of advising a friend on which saw to buy for occasional firewood.

He doesn't want battery. I have suggested a min. budget of c. £200 so maybe Husqvarna 130, Stihl 170 or Makita EA3201S35B.

Thoughts based on experience anyone?

What sort of cutting time do you get out of the T540ixp on average work?

I like the idea of battery (not withstanding the deluge of E-waste we are going to be producing...)

6 hours ago, spuddog0507 said:

As above the timber will need to be stress graded like C17 ? if you look at any construction timber you will see a stamp on it with what it has been graded to, you could find some where to get it done at a reasonable cost and still save a fair chunk of cash, it would all so need to be dried as well, OK years ago timber was sawn in a mill from green timber and the day after it was on a house roof, they are still there and in good condition but with how we do things today and all the red tape involved and all the people doing the inspection jobs that have only read books makes life very difficult at times, was there graded pre stressed timber stamped timber about when St Pauls cathederal, Westminster, York Minster where built NO Norman Architecture just got on and did the job with no Bull shit, your spruce will be fine but forget the lodgepole it aint that good, it dont take treatment very well, a mate of mine makes a lot of fence posts and he wont touch any more,

 

I don't think many people on here would disagree that there is too much red tape in business and in our lives, however, it is worth noting that if you lessen control you will lessen quality especially in bulk-build makets. As an example operators like Wimpy and Persimmon, supposedly, build to regs, but some of their constructions are alleged to be sub-standard, and I would happily wager, will not have the longevity of the great cathedrals.

Point is, unscuplulous builders woould cut necessay corners and houses (if not lives) would be lost.

It would be great to see a more local and job specific application of the rules like in this case. I hope you find a way to do it.

I agree some laws will curtail people's rights to protest (The Public Order bill) and they have probably done it in response to groups like XR, and because they anticipate increasing disquiet, which should be a warning of further potential crackdowns.

The flip side though, is that, rightly or wrongly, the country was largely shut down for the best part of 2 years and millions were furloughed at 80% of their salary + business grants etc. Therefore how is the government to recoup some of that money if not through tax?

Fuel taxes are pretty tough because they aren't means tested, and a lot of people  (and certainly businesses) have no choice but to use fuel.

Windfall taxes may be another way to raise that revenue, which seems to be where the government is headed, but we already see the reluctance or technical difficulties governments face when trying to tax big Globals (e.g.Apple)...

All sounds good.

Might even extend myself to XPG....

So XP or LS 2 stroke for this brand new saw?

These are the same grade are they not, but XP is bio? Husqvarna talk about professional and 'prosumer'  (I see what they did there...) etc etc. is this all just marketing?

I've been using Oregon almost exclusively for 20 years with no issues. I Did use LS for a while but went back to Oregon because the red is so obvious and the green is much harder to see.

Well, it wouldn't be Arbtalk if people didn't chip in their ha'penny's worth - even of its totally irrelevant to the OP - and you're not guilty of that atm 😉. 

Maybe Gimmlet had a Mk 1? Here's hoping...

I don't refute Stihl make some good saws, but everything I own (apart from MS200 s) are husky, so I don't see me changing now. Already have a ridiculous array of bars and chains without adding more german hardware into the mix!

Perfect. I'm in. Thanks guys.

Was planning to run an 18" bar (it's primarily for blocking down and bigger limb removal)

Should be up to that aye?

We've probably been down this road before....

Need a saw for aerial tree work. I've heard many users day thsi saw is great for forestry (long periods of cutting) but really not good at restarting when hot. Given the stop start nature of arb work, this could be PIA.

The only other saw I've really looked at is a 450 which is a tidy enough wee saw, but obviously with less power. No complications with autotune  however 

Views from any experience of these saws gladly received.

Cheers 

Arbortec, Stein, Mendle....

Are there any leather boots that are class 3? Also. need to use them with spikes.

Thoughts and experience much appreciated