t0ny0k

Thanks, advice is very much appreciated, I have emailed the customer stating we are not qualified or insured to give advice on the management of the tree, but we can undertake the work if he wishes us to do so. My gut feeling he will have the branches removed, that may come near to his or neighbours house if it should fail and when funds are available he will have the tree removed.

Customer has been clearly informed that if he requires a survey/report I could organise it for him, all I'm doing is trying to help the guy. If he had the money he would have it taken down, somebody will probably carryout a reduction/monolith/removal based on cost. To start with all he is doing is talking to tree surgeons to gather some information and prices, he wants to first ensure if the tree fails, it does not hit any buildings. 

Sorry, to answer your question, we discussed a canopy reduction and he said the canopy had plenty of leaf growth and looked healthy to him. 

Both monolith and remove have been discussed, he would like to try and manage it and will probably be down to cost in the end. 

Old gentleman asked me to have a look at a old beech tree in his garden, he was concerned about the growths and there is decay in the base of the trunk.

WE are looking at removing some of the big heavy branches that would probably relieve some of the forces off the trunk.

Advice is appreciated.

Anybody interested.

Any tree climbers available for tomorrow to help take down two popular trees in Efail Isaf near LLantrisant.
Must have CS30,31,38,39 & 41. Practically all needs rigging down. 
Also looking for a MS660 saw to rent or buy. 
We have employee liability insurance. 
You can check out our website and Facebook page
Trees2go.wales.

Can you pm me or text me 07904292444
It’s the trees either side of the shed. Rh has been started but we need help to get our schedule back on track.

Hi Nathan I have pm’d you. 

Thanks guys, it's the only way In my mind it could be done, improvise I guess.

Whats the best method for climbing this limb as you can not get an anchor point above you. In training they don't teach you how to get out to the end of this type of limb.

Customer has requested the removal of the broken branch, as you can see by the attached photo, a previous large branch had broken off 2 years ago. I have suggested and they agree the limb should be cut back at least 25%. Not sure if the end of the limb is decayed.

Directly underneath is a wooden summer house so very little drop zone. My difficulty has always been climbing this type of limb when angled as this one is. Some info on technique you would use would be helpful.

How can " the blades be the same " but " smaller " this makes them different in my book of logic.

Sorry, always struggled with my English grammar. The blades are the same design but different in dimension. The ground cutting angle is concave like it's bigger brother.

Chatting to the mechanic at the Dealer, he said the 160 has some of the 230 technology, the blades are the same but smaller, has easy access to the blades by just removing the cover plate, If I understood him correctly. Central greasing points.

The chassis does look a bit odd as it has a single bar tow arm, it looks long but you will need the length for reversing. It weighs about 620 kg. Feed chute is the same size as the 150.

As mentioned a bonnet and spare wheel would be great.

We have managed with a GTS 1300 4" gravity feed for two years so the 160 will probably suit or needs and process the waste at 3.5T / hr.

Thanks guys for your input, but still would like to here from somebody that has one and uses it every day.

Thinking of getting a TW160, been to Timberwolf today and had a demo. Handles the 6" logs ok. Also demo'd a new TW230 (Great machine but probably a bit big for our needs at the moment) and a 6 year old TW150.

Only concern there is not a lot of info for the TW160 out there at the moment from the guys that use it.

Few of the questions I have, does it throw the chip far enough, what is it like with wet conifer, does the engine get dirty with no bonnet.

TW160 comes with 2 Year warranty, a spare set of blades plus affordable payments.

Note:- There is no a great difference in price from a new TW160 and a 6 year old TW150.

I can see that setup being ideal for our needs. Did you do the conversion yourself.

I have seen these, but they seem harder to find.

Just read my first post, probably was not clear enough. Meant to imply going from a Ranger to transit tipper or similar. Sorry if I've confused anybody.

I'll post up a photo of our present setup.

Thanks guys the pickup conversion could be an option but we have got a fair amount of kit including ladders. Does anybody manage with a single cab transit tipper or should We just bite the bullet and go for a double transit tipper or simillar.

Converting the pickup had crossed our minds. Anybody got any photos of a double cab pickup with a tipper conversion. Also what sort of price. I've seen a single cab hilux locally that has been converted but not a double cab.

We are looking to upgrade our Ford Ranger pickup to a tipper truck.

Read numerous posts on what make, my dilemma is single or double cab.

Insurance is more for the double cab due to the number of seats and age of owner/driver who is 26 with 1 year Ncb (All his ncb is on his Road car)

Can you change the log book if you convert the back to tool storage and class it as a three seater.

Guys with the single cab how to you manage with tool storage as initially He won't be able to afford a custom arb box with built in storage.

Thanks for the info. I'll check out Quick book & Freeagent

What tax software do you guys use to do your self assessments.

I have always done my own for the last 10 years on other businesses.

Thought it about time I started using some professional software other than my own spreadsheets for my son's new start up business. One, it hopefully will help him in the future to grow the business and two, just makes the accounting easier to do our selves or pass on to an accountant.

I have been looking at something like Sage as we can use it for payroll, vat and invoicing.

I've taken a photo of our Ranger. The ring was bonded onto the front of this cover at the rear yoke. Hope this helps. Also there is a link to a forum site.

Drive shaft - Ford Ranger Forum

Had a similar problem on our 2006 Ford Ranger. There is a metal ring bonded to the prop shaft at the rear coupling. Not sure if it's for anti-vibration or there to protect the diff. Anyway the metal ring which is quite thick and heavy was disbonding. I cut it off with a disk cutter and have been driving the pickup for over a year with no adverse effects without it. Cured our vibration issue.

Looking to upgrade from my my Ford Ranger and 10ft trailer to a tipper truck. Cost wise its cheaper to buy and insure a single cab. The obvious delema is how do I safely store all my kit.

Ideally a double cab would be great, but the insurance is a lot higher I'm told. Can you get the log book changed to a three seater and tool cab rather than a 6/7 seater.

Plan is to upgrade from Ranger, trailer & chipper to a Tipper Arb box & towable chipper in February.

Pictures of how you store your tools would be well appreciated.

I'll post picture of my present set up.