crobinson
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Posts posted by crobinson
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Thanks - i use Danish on most things, but didn't think it would make it dark enough for what we want.
Would the Osmo seal over a wax - or do i need an oil stain?
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Hi All,
I've got some lovely 2 1/4" Ash for a new worktop for a bathroom - the sink will be a freestanding bowl to sit on top of it. I'm also going to make some floating shelves out of the offcuts once the worktop is jointed.
What is the best treatment to seal it from the moisture?
I want to stain it slightly to fit with the darker beams and floor, but then seal it - ideally with a matt finish.
Many thanks,
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Yes, those exemptions still apply, although you can only sell 2cu out of the 5.
You'll either need a TPO permission to carry out the work, or an FC approved management plan, which will take care of this for you. I guess you haven't got a management plan as this would come with a felling license.
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Be careful with existing woodlands. Farm Woodland Premium Scheme prohibits grazing of livestock on ex-agricultural land now planted with woodland. Even though the payments stop after 15 years, the obligation period is 30 years.
Make sure you don't have any grant schemes which prohibit grazing before you start.
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Suits & House of Cards (Netflix)
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Hi, I know a friend who had one fitted - A clearview 400 and lined chimney with new hearth came to £2,500. So about £1,300 without the stove.
I'm about to put one in, but have to have an external chimney....sigh
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I put a few cuts in the top of a recently cut stump and poured some SBK on it. Haven't had anything come back 3 years later.
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HLS is pretty much no longer available - under the new NELMS scheme which will come into force Jan 2016. You'll be looking at: £9.40/m for hedgelaying - £4/m coppicing hedge - £9.50/m gapping up - £3/m Casting up - £4.10/m pre work - £3.40 top binding and staking (depends where you are in the country).
NELMS won't be available to everyone everywhere, but there's a strong chance there will be capital only grants which could include hedgelaying. These should be more widely available than the whole farm schemes.
Hope that helps
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Looks like goat willow from the photo's and the 2ft a month would definitely fit with the species vigour
Did it have yellow flowers in the spring?
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At a quick glance it looks like Buckthorn to me - Deciduous shrub which will grow with vigour, will re-grow when cut back.
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Looks like drought damage to me.
Leaf miner is as the pic above - much more blotchy and obvious where they have attacked.
Few trees suffering drought damage this year - a number of concerned landowners reported Ash Dieback which is just drought caused leaf drop.
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Wrong again I'm afraid the best way to regenerate an old yew hedge is to take it right back to the stems, no stubs or growth points, hit it hard..
Not the one my neighbours tackled - must have been something else wrong with it as it killed 1/2 our hedge - I assumed they hit it too hard.
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I had one for 2 years and did 80K (70K - 150k) miles with nothing but servicing costs + new fuel filter sensor (£15).
Mine was a 2000 Series IIa TD5 - lovely to run, did about 35mpg average and was great on the motorway too. I had BFG Allterrain tyres on it.
I managed to put it in a hedge in the ice, otherwise I would probably still have it.
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not growing back only applies to leylandii and similar species. yew grows back, as does thuja. all deciduous grow back, some can be butchered like privet and laurel. bird nesting is an issue, if it's only a skim no problem, other wise you need to check. on a lawn or rough ground rake or preferably leave as mulch the clippings if customer is favourable, for borders and gravel put sheets down. aand if you look closely,, you will see where the last cut was a and within 12months cut back to that point.
Sorry, my bad. Your right about Yew - It's when you take the saw too it that it doesn't like it.
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I've burnt a lot of alder as my woods are full of the stuff. I tend to split mine (fairly) wet and dry in log form for 10 months - burns a dream.
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Always cut bottom to top
You can be more brutal than you think for a lot of species - beware Yew/Leylandi etc. if you take too much it won't grow back.
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I wish I stayed closer if I had a couple of thousand hectares to shoot squirrels my shotgun barrel would be red hot. Have you thought of advertising on some of the shooting websites? There must be plenty people that would be willing to shoot tree rats.
Ten years ago we would see about 40 squirrels where we go shooting. Nowadays we rarely see any, but we now see lots of buzzards. My theory is that the buzzards are eating the squirrels. It could be an idea to encourage buzzards? I'd imagine a squirrel would be a tasty meal for a lot of birds of prey.
Not all our land - looking at collaborative approaches across multiple land ownerships - same principle as deer management groups. Also the same principle that if one landowner managed the population, then it creates a pocket for neighbouring squirrels to move into.
Anyone know anymore about the Goodnature traps from NZ?
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Work in The National Forest with ,000s Hectares of 15+ year old woodland and a lot more coming of age which is at huge risk. Deer less of an issue here, greys are the real enemy.
Was just looking to see if the industry had anything radical which had worked. Thanks for very interesting replies.
I note the mention of the NZ CO2 trap, currently under development for use on greys over here - could be 18 months... But will it be worth the wait, I hope so.
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A lot of time involved shooting all the time. Any experience with Warfrain/instant kills?
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Hi All,
Take a look at this: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LM1TMsNnF98]Grey Squirrel Bark Stripping - YouTube[/ame]
Anyone suffer bad damage this year?
Any thoughts on most effective control methods?
Thanks
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Cheap Drills
Handsaws which aren't brand new
Strimmer heads which don't release their cord
Strimmer cord which snaps before you've even cut anything
Metal felling wedges when you're using rookies
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Used one daily felling Douglas, Larch, Spruce & mixed B'leaves for about 2 years.
Never had a problem. Great saw in my view, but I obviously had a good one by the sounds of things.
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Tung Oil scratches very easily - used it on my Oak kitchen worktops for a few weeks, then put Linseed on top for more protection. Tung Oil looked better (Linseed can be a bit shiny for my liking).
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Are you interested in 1st thinning's? 20-15 year old?
Elm mantlepiece beam needed
in Milling Forum
Posted
Try Mick Waldram
[email protected]
07721 618899
Based Leicestershire