dannytreacy

48 minutes ago, billpierce said:

44. Something mm for you then

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F392121491725

Or measure it after you have pulled the cylinder I case someone has changed side covers somewhere down the line.

Thanks for the link ? One more question, could the damage to the piston be the thing that is causing the saw to stop after a few cuts or is it more likely another issue that is responsible for both problems?

It’s a silver cover, 50cc, original as far as I know.

it has the decompression valve too 

47 minutes ago, billpierce said:

Whip the pot off and have a look, very extremely good high chance itll clean up, hone the cylinder, i use 100grit dand paper to start and work up a few grades. You'll get read of the Ali transfer. Then get yourself a meteor piston kit from the Ebay Greek fella. Pop that on ( probs watch a vid or two on youtoob). You may need a new gasket on base of cylinder. Might be ok though.

Now, before you get any further, vac and pressure the saw ( youtoob again) sorting out the inevitable airleak. As there will have a been a cause to the seizure ( fuel, lean h jet, or airleak). This must be addressed or youll be doing this again in a day or two

Just wondered which size piston I’d need (my 346 xp is 2002 model), there’s a few diameter variations of the meteor make from the Greek seller, thanks!

Thanks for the info and replies, bit of a learning curve!

I found the breather valve and flushed it with brake cleaner , it looked pretty clean it functioned okay when I sucked it. 

So on checking the exhaust gasket I looked into the piston area and saw it looked a bit scratched (see photo), is this indication of the problem or general wear and tear? It’s a 2002 saw. 

Do do I need to replace the piston?

Apologies I missed the text description, thanks for the info! 

What a PITA place to put the vent!

5 minutes ago, billpierce said:

Here it is on a 357xp. And yes Khriss and spud I know the saw could do with a clean. And yes it's my finger

Where is that? I can’t tell the navigation from the pictures, thanks. 

I have tried to locate the tank breather valve, there’s no useful imagery or videos on the internet about finding it on a 346xp. If anyone can help that’d be great. 

Ive attached an image. 

Thanks,

danny. 

45 minutes ago, spudulike said:

I hope you didn't use an aftermarket coil and don't lob the original. 

These saws do have a few issues and best get it checked out as some of the issues can produce big issues. 

When was it last fully serviced and was it pressure and vac tested? 

I did use an aftermarket coil but I also kept the original as I thought that it most likely wasn’t this but I wanted to check it. 

Its been a few few years since I’ve had it serviced as it has very light seasonal use and I don’t know if it was pressure or vacuum tested.

To be honest the service centre that’s closest to me don’t have my full confidence in their ability to avoid ripping people off, I had bad experiences with them previously so I probably need to find a new place for services. 

1 hour ago, billpierce said:

Try taking the fuel cap off after it has cut out. If it sucks a bit, or behaves happily for a short while when you do this it may be a tank breather issue.

Is compression good?

Thanks for the info, I’ll try this, I don’t have a compression tester unfortunately. 

Hi all,

I’m at a loss with my chainsaw which has always been hassle free. 

The issue is that after cutting about four 8” or so slices it cuts out. On inspecting it I saw that a part of the ignition wiring (black wire) had been worn down due to being rubbed by the flywheel. I replaced the wiring, but no help.

 I researched and adjusted the low speed jet but this didn’t seem to help with the issue. So far I have changed the wiring as mentioned and also the fuel filter and spark plug, also removed the spark arrestor. Also replaced the ignition coil module as I thought perhaps it had been damaged by the worn wiring. None of this has had a positive result.

The saw is fine when idling and also fine when revving for a while but after several substantial cuts it cuts out immediately after the last cut. There is also smoke coming out near the muffler area so something is not happy. 

Any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 Thanks. 

Danny. 

i'd expect it to be £30-£35 per cubic foot and usually nearer the £35. so each 4m length should be just under £40.

Excellent info, thanks mate!

Hi all,

I've had a load of iroko for two years in storage. I wanted to make bed with it but now don't have the time.

I'm after some price advice if possible, there's 12 lengths, each one is 4000mm X 50mm X 150mm.

This isnt a sales thread I'm just interested in a ball park figure.

Cheers,

Danny.

The record one looks the best out of them more robust, How come you've decided on just the disc sander . Surely both disc and belt gives you more choice.

Yes true, I read that a dedicated disc or belt sander maybe a better choice that a combination, the 12" disc sander by record seems to have really good specs, a guard, brake etc.

I just thought perhaps it's best to get a simpler machine that does a better job?

The bds 250 you showed does look nice though, now I'm confused!

Atb,

Danny.

Thanks mate, I was thinking the record would be the best.

Atb,

Danny.

I've been looking at 12" disc sanders and have narrowed it down a bit, does anyone have any experience or opinions on any of the following:

DISC SANDER TS 305 HOLZMANN - TG Machinery

F31-120 Fox 305mm Disc Sander @£140.99

Record Power DS300 305mm Sander / Linisher 230V | Disc Sanders | Screwfix.com

I get your logic althought holding end grain onto a belt can be hard. You don't have a lathe by any chance? If so you could make discs for that

Hi,

No I don't unfortunately, I have been using a belt sander so far and yes I know what you mean about the piece being dragged away by the belt but a lot of the ones I have looked at have a guard rail so I could rest the piece against that.

Have you looked at stand alone disc sanders. These would have a table and allow you to get a good finish on the end grain without worrying about holding onto the log.

Yes I had thought of that, my only reason for going for the idea of a combined belt and disc sander would be for moving through the grits easily, so for example I could have a 60 grit on the disc sander and a 100 grit on the belt, if I only had a disc I would have to change the sanding disc every time I wanted to change grit and as most of them are self adhesive I imagine it would mean destroying the sanding disc each time I changed grit.

Does that make sense?

Something like this you want.

 

Belt Sander on Floor Stand - Tilting table | eBay

 

I've got an old Whitehead Junior Linisher. Would love a big modern oscillating belt sanding machine. Will have to wait till I have built some more room.

 

Chris

Yes something like that would be ideal, I'm in London though so it's too far unfortunately.

What would be a new comparable version of this?

Hi all,

I hope this is the right section for this question.

I am looking for a good sander for sanding the end grain on log rounds that have been cut with a bandsaw.

The rounds vary from 2" - 6" diameter. So I'd need a combination sander with a 10"-12" disc and a belt of 6" witdth.

I've been using a handheld belt sander on its back, very slow and not what the machine was made for! So I really need a dedicated sander that can happily be running for hours without the fear of burning it out.

I know there's a lot of 'hobby' sander about for around the £120 mark but I'm looking for something with more power so it doesn't struggle or get too hot.

My budget is about £300, I don't need to buy a stand as I have a bench.

Any pointers appreciated, thanks.

Danny.

What are Willow logs like?

Cheers.

Great info!

Plus that book looks like a great resource.

I am always coming across different woods for my lamp making business. My ethos is to use trees that have already been felled for forest management programmes, or from friendly tree surgeons, or windfall.

I am a designer not an arborist so my knowledge of which trees have the best properties for turning are something of a mystery. Properties I require are for the wood to be heavy when seasoned, not brittle, not prone to cracking or splitting.

It struck me that there doesn't appear to be a resource on the different good and, from the perspective of someone who may wish to create something in wood, the undesirable woods. It could also mention those woods that have interesting mould patterns, isn't it called spalting?

For example I only found after asking on here that eucalyptus is not good at all as it splits and cracks severely.

So how about someone lists the common uk found woods and people add their experience of the wood under the particular type of wood?

I think it would be a very interesting sticky.

Atb,

Danny.

Ps I'm not sure 'turning' is the best phrase, I just mean working with the wood to make something with it.

Thanks for the replies guys.

I will use the 24 tooth blade that's on it already as suggested by Steve and buy the one for cutting across the grain as suggested by Mutley.

Cheers.

I am looking into saw blades for a Hitachi 235mm circular saw. I got it to cut some Iroko, I want the cuts to be as clean as possible.

I am aware that I need a TCT blade with many teeth to achieve a fine cut but as the Iroko is very hard is it possible to overdo the amount of teeth?

If for example I got a blade with 60 teeth might it be too delicate and snap some teeth? Should it go for a 48 teeth blade that would be stronger?

Also some blades have an 'alternate top bevel' tooth configuration, is this more desirable if I want the finest possible cut with my saw?

Finally is there a brand or brands that I should go for over other brands?

I know generally you get what you pay for but sometimes you also just pay for the name.

Any info appreciated, thanks.