Bosun
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Everything posted by Bosun
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I'm guessing that the oil pump is working OK. If it wasn't, I would expect less oil, not more oil.
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Good morning, As I understand it, the fuel in a chainsaw should run out before the oil to protect the bar/chain. However, my Husky 240 runs out of oil before fuel. Other than the residual oil that runs off after stopping the saw, there are no oil leaks in storage. It does however seem to spray more oil than I would expect during use, most of it down my chainsaw trousers. The saw doesn't have any adjustment for oil flow, so presumably it has to be able to cope with the longest recommended bar. The longest bar is 18", and I'm using a 14" bar. Could it just be over-oiling the shorter bar, or might there be another reason for the high oil usage? By the way, I'm using Stihl Synth-plus bar oil.
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I think that may be the case, HMRC say something to that effect if I recall.
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I'm confused! In my search for boots, I've just read on one retailers website, that VAT on chainsaw boots is charged for "business users", but not for "personal users". On the subject of chainsaw boots. Why are almost all of the wellington types sold in an "alert orange" colour, but generally, the lace-up type in normal black and brownish colours?
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I'm in the process of buying a pair of chainsaw boots, and I've noticed that some have VAT added and some clearly state they are VAT exempt. Anyone know the rules? The HMRC website says that "protective boots for industrial use" are zero rated. So why the disparity, or don't some retailers/customers know the rules? I'd hate to think that retailers some were charging it, then pocketing the VAT. Perrish the thought.
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Why 2012? Are you are considering Ash dieback? I thought that occured from the top down. The condition has always looked fine, at least to an untrained eye. When I say "snapped off like a carrot", I mean it failed cleanly at ground level leaving the roots still buried. I'll have a closer look at the point of failure this week, when we've had an opportunity to drag the trunk from the undergrowth.
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Many thanks for your input. Yes, we understand our obligation. We had a comprehensive tree survey carried out in 2012, and have acted upon the recomendations. Would a "tree survey" have found what seems to be "root plate rot", considering the fallen tree appears to be (to us), void of any abnormalities?
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Mmm.... Are there any obvious external signs of root plate rot? (before the inevitable) Are Ash trees more prone to this, or should we be aware that other species may be at risk? What is the likely cause/causes of root plate rot? Sorry for all the questions, but the new camping season will soon be upon us, and we need to ensure (as far as is practically possible) that the site is safe.
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Difficult to say, as the fuel is also used for a hedge trimmer and brush cutter. But I always use a Briggs & Stratton fuel stabilizer. I'm going to try a fresh fuel mix. At least it will rule that one out of the equation. Unleaded petrol + Husky XP 2 stroke oil.
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It's just over 2 years old. I would guess it's done no more than about 30 hours work. It's cleaned after ever use and I've serviced it myself by cleaning/changing the air filter element and cleaning & gapping the spark plug. The handbook recommends replacing the spark plug after about a month. I haven't done that as the plug has always looked OK. Might that be the cause?
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Good afternoon, My Husky 240 chainsaw works fine for a short while, then looses power/slows down. A few blips of the throttle and off it goes again, only to slow down again shortly afterwards. I've cleaned and re-gapped the spark plug, and fitted a new air filter element. Are there any things I should look at before rushing off to my local dealer? Many thanks.
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Good afternoon, Last Wednesday, on our Scout Campsite, we found a fallen Ash tree. It had snapped off like a carrot at ground level. The trunk is about 14inches dia and appears to be a good specimin. Most has now been logged-up (apart from the main trunk) and shows no apparent signs of ill health inside. Any suggestions as to the cause? Is this common for Ash trees? We will in due course call in an expert, as the tree fell into an area that can be used by campers. Clearly, our duty of care has to be recognised. Many thanks in advance.
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Good morning all, Many thanks for the comments and suggestions. Why collect the leaves? Well, there are several areas that get so many Oak leaves, that despite regular reseeding, we can't get the grass to take. We've considered the problem of wet leaves sticking in suction tubes etc, but not having had any experience with vacuum units, we're not sure how much of an problem it would be. We have weekly work days, so regular collection would be possible. I like the idea of using a blower to blow the leaves into piles/rows for collection. That's basically what we currently do with the humble rake, but with considerably less effort. Any suggestions which blower? Stihl seem to be the dominant models out there with commercial operators.
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Hi, Many thanks for the prompt reply. We've considered the young fit Scouts and rakes option, but in todays protective society, it would probably be considered abuse. We had been mowing with a Kubota F3560 with a 60" rear discharge out-front mower deck (less collector). I say had, because some light fingered low life have recently releived us of it, and a considerable quantity of associated groundcare equipment. We are currently in the market for a replacement. If anyone out there knows of one, or something similar up for sale, let me know. I've looked at the Kubota attachment with vacuum fan and tipping grass hopper, but apart from cost, it's just too big for us to store.
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Good morning all, I'm not sure if this subject is strictly arboriculture, but here goes. We have a Scout Campsite of just under 8 acres, with about 5 acres of grass for camping. A fair proportion of which gets covered in leaf fall this time of year. We've struggled on for some years with the humble lawn rake, but none of us are getting any younger, and we're looking for an alternative. It's not just the raking, but also the collecting and disposal. We've considered the following: Hand held blower/vacs - Too small and time consuming. Tow along (wheel driven) sweepers - Poor performance on wet grass. Mower attachments - Expensive and awkward to store. Push/self propelled vacs (Billy Goat, etc) - Thinking about? I'd welcome suggestions/comments from any experts out there. Many thanks, Steve Little Warden Kingston Ridge Scout Campsite
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As it happens, my Hi-Lift is a Jackall 8000. I used the term "Hi-Lift" as it seems to have become the generic name for them. Yes, mine has a hole too, but it's very close to the bottom of the flange beneath the toe. I'm not sure it would take much load. I thought the hole was for securing the adaptor used for lifting Land Rovers. I was hoping to be able to attatch some sort of clutch link or chain shortener so that I could then secure the choker to it.
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Good morning, Has anyone used a "Hi-Lift" type jack for stump pulling? If so, is there an adaptor out there somewhere to attach a choker chain to the toe? I've been using my Hi-Lift jack to pull small stumps and fence posts for some time, but feel a more positive method of attaching a choker chain (rather than just wrapping it around the toe), might be prudent. Any other suggestions for pulling small stumps at moderate cost appreciated. Bosun
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Good afternoon all, Apologies for raising this question again, I though I had it sorted. Many thanks for all of your feedback. However, finally I've had a reply from Husqvarna regarding the grease. They say I should use their 531 00 92-05 grease. This is a 400g cartridge, and retails at £31.00. Does anyone know what the hell's in the stuff? Maybe we should by shares in it. Whatever it is, I'm sure it's not that unique, and cheaper to buy elsewhere if you knew what's in it. Thanks, Bosun
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Sharpening on an 8000 grit waterstone and stroping is fine, but yes, examining under a microscope is a bit of an obsession! But if it works for you, great.
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Hello Rick, Many thanks for that comprehensive reply. I'm also experimenting with different sharpening profiles. One thing I have found, is that a flat grind on a hand axe works better for me than a convex one, as many experts seem to prefer. While the convex grind may be a little stronger, I've found that it tends to glance off more easily if the angle of the cut is small. I guess that's why the one sided grind on a Side Axe is prefered for slicing. Bosun
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My apologies, I didn't realise that was a link. So... It looks like the Lithium grease I use for the mower bearings and bushes should be OK for the hedge trimmer gearbox? I guess if the grease is too thick though, it will get flung off and stick to the gearbox casing and not do its job.
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As I said above, the gearbox. The "reduction gearbox" to be precise.
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Good afternoon all, Does anyone know what grease I should use in the gearbox on my Husqvarna 226HD60S Hedge Trimmer? The manual doesn't specify which type, the dealer doesn't know, and I've yet to receive a reply from Husqvarna. The manual says apply it via the grease nipple. So do you think the grease I use for my mower (lithium based NGLI 2) would be OK? That would mean I only have to have one grease gun on the go. Many thanks, Bosun
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Thanks guys, It's just not been clear whether the angles given were the sharpening angle, or the included angle. I guess, at the end of the day, it depends on what works best for you. Bosun
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Good afternoon, For example, many experts quote the sharpening angle for a knife as 15 to 20 degrees. Would this be the angle of the blade to the stone, or the included angle? Included angle - 15 to 20 degrees or 30 to 40 degrees, any offfers. For plane irons and chisels it's easy as they are one sided, but what about knives, axes, etc. Bosun
