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CCB

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Posts posted by CCB

  1. Bit of a long shot really, but as most good drivers have a Forestry or farming background! i am currently looking for a grader driver to operate a volvo 990 grader on a wind farm near Beattock for approx 5 weeks possibly more if its the right man? its nothing complex just road/pothole repairs working with a roller and 8 wheelers for more info Chris 07553347667

  2. Jase, Thanks for the info! hopefully i will get the wander lead this weak! the trailer has the plastic tank, i will get the correct visc of oil (32) and do the procedure! i didnt pay a lot for the trailer so im hoping to sort it up! its got concrete residue all over it, the plan is to get some mild acid and clean it down! Thanks for advice!

  3. Hi, i bought an Ifor Williams 12ft tipper today, i am told there is a wander lead for it, but they are going to have to look it out! the trailer has been well used, but it hasnt done much for a year now! i tried to tip it manually, it raised about 2ft would go any higher, the pump resistance felt non existent! then i had to disconect the line at the ram to let it down! what could be wrong? and what is the procedure to manually tip an ifor? any help would be great!

    Cheers

  4. I have ran two L200 s supplied by the work! 1 was an old shape 06 plate the latter was a 57 plate, both were great pickups! used every day to chase on heavy plant on the wind farms, and always laden with tools an oil! both suffered the 4x4 Actuator playing up! 90% of the time it was a build up of mud between the sump guard and the plastic vaccum pump, or hoses beeing compressed by the mud, sump guards on L200s are crap and made of tin, we replaced ours with heavier steel and didnt have any more problems, regular power washing and oil does wonders! although the 57 plate was a pain for universal joints and centre bearings! both since been replaced by a 09 shogun and it is terrible of road! constantly falling apart! constantly at mitsubishi for timing chain problems or front bearings and shafts! this coming from a life long mitsubishi owner!

    Cheers

  5. Hi jon

    Another big factor everyone forgets about, is that the metal quality in modern engine components is crap! too much scrap from washed up oil tankers in india etc,being smelted down and re used!! we have had 2 engine failures on 11 liter volvo units in the last three weeks!! both times the top end has destroyed its self, 3000 and 1100 hrs respectivley! Not good! modern engine have the life strangled out of them now due to emissions? stick to rotary pump old school diesel!! reincarnate the TWs, and the 4955s real tractors!!!:thumbup:

    chris

  6. Hi Tim

    I had 1720 just slightly less HP, i run a hycrack from it, done the job, but done the clutch in twice! didnt really have a good flow rate for the hydraulic splitter either? it was handy with the front loader for moving wood! mines was 10 years old with lewis loader on, sold it for £2500! 4k seems ok! dependent on its condition! they hold money!

    the ford badge doesnt really mean much, its still a japanese engine, spares are easy to come buy as most of the Iseki/YTO/Shibaura type tractors have the same parts, you could probably pick up a good 60/80hp classic for that money that someone has spent a fortune on restoring!

    Cheers

    Chris

  7. Going to try and convince him to go for a new piston,gaskets etc, its a very clean saw, definatley worth it! it will probably be me who will do the work to it, i will take some pics of it when i start and post them on, chances are i'l need some more advice about it again? thanks for taking the time to reply, the advice is appreciated!!

    Cheers

    Chris

  8. Hi, got the saw back tonight,stripped it down, when i took the top casing off the saw to take the head off, all four bolts were slack? not totally out but enough to cause slight movement! thought i better rule out what was staring me in the face, i tightened them up put the carb back on etc pulled the cord and it started!! it seems to run ok?

     

    Next Question, looking into the piston from the exhaust side, the piston has a rough almost serrated edge along the top? like a saw blade? surely this type of damage would stop the saw running correctly? is this a common sight on an older saw? what causes this type of damage? i have never seen this happen to any of my own saws?

     

    if the saw was mine i think i would replace the piston, at this stage, my friend doesnt seem to bothered? what do you guys think?

  9. Going to try and put some pics on? like i say it runs ok with fuel in carb? maybe only for 5/10 seconds, is this long enough to determine that the scoring is contributing to the problem?

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