blackjack

Ok great thanks very much lads.

3 minutes ago, htb said:

• Husqvarna 346 XP (2009-02) Chainsaw CARBURETOR & AIR FILTER Spare Parts Diagram (ransomspares.co.uk)

Thanks for that ,problem is there is 3 options?

Hi,I have a newer type 346xp 2011 silver side  that came to me with no air filter I also have an earlier 346xp with a twist on air filter the newer one is a different fitting ,can anyone give me the part number so I can get one from LSE.

Thanks

The 346 is now all back together and running sweetly,I used a 9mm s/steel band fixing and a new boot and impulse hose ,new choke lever, reset the carb screws back to stock and with hardly any messing with the carb it is pulling well.I thrashed it for about an hour, and tick over is now totally consistent.

Thanks all for your help.

2 minutes ago, Sawchip said:

 I know the clamp might seem like a pain in the arse

 but there are some good reasons they are like that.

1...its a pre set clamping force that with the proper intake gives a known sealing performance that Husqvarna will have tested....a screw clamp works fine but has to be done up to the right pressure and stay at that pressure.

2...the clamp, in best practice, is a fit once and replace if you remove the intake in the future (not often done and they are cheep).

3...it is low profile and can fit into the limited space in front of the partition wall easily.

If you have a tool and instruction to instal , like most things its far less hassle than without.

 

 

Thanks I get your point and I admit its down to my inexperience, but I have had so many carbs in and out of 2 strokes bikes so many times never a problem and Yamaha and the like know how to build a reliable smoker.Husky could have made it simple, I'm not going to wait for another clamp from the internet only parts supply.Thanks again though for yours and the other poster's advice ,it really is appreciated and every day is a school day.

Yes I deffo strained it by repeatedly try to get it to click in and that's why it failed and haven't got the knack of the pros that have done it before but what a stupid design the only reason can be manufacturing costs ,it wouldn't be so bad if any of the local Husky dealers stocked spares but they don't.Total pain in the arse.

Wasted some more time on this today, eventually got it together and seated correctly, refitted the cylinder etc as I was  about to fit the carb I heard a snap and guess what the clamp had let go the little male end bit nowhere to be seen ffs what a piece of shit. Going to fit the type that Yamaha etc use which is similar with a machine screw to tighten, been the same on bike carbs forever they can be torqued up and undone its simple to do and it works probably costs a few pence more to manufacture so Husky swerved it.

Whats the trick to the metal clamp on the intake boot?

I have got all the parts that make up the boot and put them all together ,removed the cylinder took the old boot off new one on all lining up nicely all husky oem but I can't get the metal clamp to click together is there a method i don't want to force it ,looks like a crap way of fasting a clamp to me hopefully Im just being a thick twat.

23 hours ago, adw said:

Power cutters work in the most hostile environments, used by operators who have no mechanical sympathy, filled with any dirty can they can find regardless of what is in it,diesel, water etc, they fit blades incorrectly, blades with the wrong bore size, on top of the flanges instead of between them and any other variation, so there are limits to how much we can do to combat poor operators, we have centrifugal air cleaning, large paper element filters, compensator carbs, double lip crank seals, sealed starters, sealed bearings in the drive drum, extended life fuel filters, and oil guard, the oil guard system monitors the colour of the fuel passing into the carb ( oil guard oil is a golden brown ) if it does not sense the oil, or the mixture is on the lean side it will retard the ignition causing it to stop revving, back to the paper filters, we did have an oil filler sponge primary filter and a smaller paper filter, however operators and dealers were washing them out and not re oiling them so they were doing nothing, a larger paper filter was then introduced, the filter can last up to a year in normal operation without being touched, even when completely blocked ( they weigh 3 times there original weight ) they will not allow dust through , keep removing them to check their condition  just breaks the seal between the filter and the housing which eventually will allow dust to pass underneath the filter, as for using an air line on a paper filter, the paper is  obviously porous enough to allow air through but tight enough to stop dust , when air is blasted through it the pours in the paper open up which then will allow small particles of dust to pass along with the air into the engine, so to be honest i do not really care what people do with their air filters, just do not blame the quality of the machine  for their mistake, welcome to my world of warranty.

Makes me want to cry when I walk around the corner on site and employee is pulling the start cord  like a man possessed rather than consider why it won't start ,usually because they have flooded it.I get the same sinking feeling sometimes when they drive my trucks. 

Ok thanks 

Got the none oil guard ,I was going to get a 760 a couple of years ago but the oil guard completely put me off so I got another Stihl,last time the recoil pawl snapped I went to get parts and walked out with a new 770 I really like it.

Can any one tell, if you use a liquid gasket between the cylinder and the intake boot? as I just watched a video on youtube and the guy used loctite 518.

I've got 2 of theses we just replace the filters they are cheap enough, on the previous models the Ts 400 the filters needed cleaning weekly but those saws were older.

I just bought the new Husky 770 as I"m fed up with the recoil pawls constantly breaking on the 410s and the stop switches dying and also primer bulbs splitting.The bolt housings fracture and let go on the flywheel side leaving the plastic casing flapping.We only use genuine parts on them but no more Stihls for me too much down time.

Update is I think I have found an air leak on the intake boot by spraying brake cleaner on it, (the engine stalls when I spray the boot in one particular place )I saw this done on youtube, all the bits are ordered from LSE .Its got a replacement probably chink top end on it so nothing to lose yet really.

1 minute ago, Stubby said:

He will just put it in the queue .  He did my 346 years ago ( and most of my other saws ) . Money well spent . 

Seems like a good idea as Im not confident on finding the air leak and decent top ends are not cheap if I get it wrong.

1 minute ago, Stubby said:

Just send it to Spud and get him to port it whilst its there . Jobs a goodun ! 👍

Deffo an option if he has time.

1 hour ago, Paddy1000111 said:

Price wise I would say more than it would cost you to buy a pressure tester and some really basic tooling. Basic chainsaw repairs are very easy. Give it a good clean off and spend a day sat at the dining room table learning! Youtube has tonnes of videos about fixing saws. 2 stroke chainsaw engines are about as basic as it gets for repairs and learning to fix things like that helps with working out issues in the future, you could save £££ just by knowing basic stuff! 

Thanks , Idon't know what a decent pressure tester costs so that's one of the reasons ,I am after some rough costs.

3 hours ago, bmp01 said:

Dunno answer to question but worth knowing seals can be removed and new ones fitted without splitting crankcases.

Obvs that goes out of the window if you want new bearings and or new case gaskets.

Edit : theres been a few posts on here regarding 346 top ends, quite recently too, anything to be gleened from there ?

Thanks ,that useful info,I have changed crank seals on air-cooled 2 stroke bikes before without splitting the cases just never worked on a chainsaw bottom end before.

Hi

I have an early 346XP that I got off eBay ,I expected it to be a pile of parts and it is.

It has a fresh probably Chinese top end in it, and runs erratically I suspect an air leak somewhere that blew the last top end and the seller fitted a new one without finding and fixing the air leak,I haven't got the kit to pressure test it or split the cases ,my question is roughly what the cost involved in worst case scenario having new crank seals and decent quality top end fitted? I know any 346 seems to be fetching good money on eBay as a repair project and I would deffo get my money back so could just sell it and put it towards a new one but I do like low tech and not sure about the new ones with auto tune and it not used that much just firewood etc.

ha bit far for me furthest i have been is my shed

Would deffo be interested if you could post a complete ish one to rebuild at a sensible price,I will give it a good home and not fill it with Chinese parts!

I am looking for one to rebuild if you want to part with one or would it be like selling one of your kids?

Hi

I have got a 372xp I need to buy a 20 inch bar and chain for it, for logging.

Which is better original husky or Oregon both cost about £50.

Thanks

first shotgun i ever fired was a webley 410 bolt action and my kids learnt to shoot with one and i still have it in the cabinet for my grandson if he wants to take it up,it was made in the early 60's i believe and has fired less than 150 cartridges ,i reckon since i first shot i have fired over 10,000 shells so it got me hooked!

i had 3 hilux double cabs and they all broke leaf springs towing ,i rate toyota and still have one but they aint a patch on landies for towing.