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Posts posted by Copford sawmill sussex
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Tut Tut!!!
No pads under the hiab legs......
Lol. .
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Can you email this to [email protected]
If we can arrange our haulier to pass by we could be very interested as we are only in horam
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I've done 3, should be enough? Yeah easy to apply bit my word it stinks!! Might have to evacuate the family when I do the floors in it
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Pv67 has now been applied! Fingers crossed
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What about a pad sander? We contemplated one not sure how good they are for big wide boards?
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Very nice, really smooth and quick cut
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Thanks for all the advice
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I have had good results off my table with osmo but it just hasent worked on the worktop, trouble is it's a high traffic area as they say. I did pick up some pv67and I'll try it and I also have some solid elm flooring which I am going to try it on. Read some really good stuff on it earlier so watch this space
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As Rob said I find most cooking oils go rank after a while, I would use polyurethane varnish. I find le tonkis very good but can be a bit bitty but a light wet sand and recoat solved that for me. Is your sink sealed to the worktop.
Yes it was mastic down. I will just sand it down gain completely poss use a white spirit to make sure no oil is left and yes a polyurethane seal seems to be the way forward.
Thanks all for the advise!! Social media working at it's best
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I am surprised you mill english timber and then use some foreign wood !? lol ... I do not know much about Iroko but one of the most resilient finishes to apply is Rustins 2 pack a kind of liquid melamine , after applying thinly , and when fully dry it will look better if you sand it back with quite fine abrasive 320 perhaps ..Try a sample piece if you have any spare first ..
Lol should have seen my dads face when it rocked up in the yard, we already have a lot if oak and elm (all English and local) and so wanted something a bit different.
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Yes I know about the oils hence can't use some preservers, this is the beauty though if wood, if in doubt you can sand it out.
Thanks mark I'll take a look
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Hi all we've had an iroko worktop in our kitchen now for less than 6 months and I'm about to resend it for the second time! We first used cooking oil, was told this would be satisfactory for water marks etc.. It wasent. I then re sanded back to it's original and used osmo top oil.. Over Christmas I have not used it's getting funny again? As in looks old. Can anyone reconend anything else they would use on an iroko worktop? I have been told to try howdens worktop oil and dealer but thought I'd just ask here first.
The second photo is an area that's never touched and is how I intended the main work bit to stay
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Ha ha accidently edited and uploaded, good video either way ha ha
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Technically it can be classed as a crack which is frowned upon when grading.
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If, on the other hand you are looking for wide waney edge timber in the raw form to choose your own bit, you won't find better in the south than these guys.https://www.facebook.com/Copford-sawmill-132272686819508/?fref=ts&__nodl
Thank you.
We have plenty of wide slabs but like above has said they are in raw form
A few photos of slabs in the yard and a few after cleaning up
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Ash can discolour if left cut down too long but to some people that's how they prefer it
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We are experiencing a shortage Down in Sussex! Enough to keep us busy but yes it is stating to run out.
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Not very burry just some very wide trees
timber preserver & making boards
in Milling Forum
Posted
My parents have untreated larch on there bungalow and that's 25yrs old so does last