BobbyDee

Does anyone have a link or a pdf copy of the parts catalogue or similar for the Echo CS-2511? Not that I expect to need it as mine is new but I just like to see what is what exactly.

I have them for my CS-501 and CS-620 but Echo seems to be a bit coy with regard to the CS-2511.

Thanks.

Well the hot compression test produced a result of 75psi, worse than the cold test as predicted by Spud. The saw still cuts, especially with a newly sharpened chain, but not with any great enthusiasm so I have now ordered a new Echo CS-2511TES ( I new I probably would) and will keep the Stihl for a backup and for tinkering with.

Thanks to all those who contributed.😍

2 hours ago, Dan Maynard said:

L&S list cylinder and piston at £41, seems like buying a compression tester bit of a waste you might as well just treat it to a new cylinder every ten years whether it needs it or not.

 

If the rest of the saws ok of course...

Fair comment. I note there seems to be 2 versions of the kit you mentioned, the other being priced at £154.80 + VAT, both with the same part number. Quite a difference.

13 hours ago, spudulike said:

It will be even less. What brand is this tester? 

10 years abuse is good for any saw, invest in a new one and keep the old one as a backup.

With 90psi compression, the saw wouldn't run.

The tester is a no-name variety but does give what appear to be reasonably accurate results on my other saws, very close to the figures quoted in the service manuals.

Not sure if the tester is specific for cars but it does have a connector with the correct thread. Tested when engine cold so I'll try again with a hot test.

26 minutes ago, Stubby said:

It is very low but did you test it on a compression tester for a car ? If you did it will read low .

Can any tell me whether engine compression of 90psi is poor for the Stihl MS150TC please? That figure seems low to me but it's a tiny teeny engine so it may be fine. I searched online but can't get any joy. I'm just trying to work out whether it's worth doing a makeover on my 10 year old one, which is still going reasonably well but definitely showing its age, or to get a shiny new replacement, probably the Echo CS2511 however they cost a fair bit more than the price of some new bits for the Stihl.

Northern Arb's website and overall service is still not quite up to scratch. Too many inconsistencies particularly with search results and invoices. I found customer services to be sub-standard too - not straightforward and difficult to get replies to emails. Overall, for me anyway, too much like hard work so I can't recommend them.

On 04/02/2022 at 16:23, ChrisNewport said:

If your stuck, ive just found a 501 under the bench which i'd forgotten about,  i was going to repair it (lean seizure) but cant be bothered. I can send you the coil if you need.

Thanks. I've messaged you.

I ordered a replacement ignition coil for the CS-501 2 weeks ago. I've now been informed it will be 'at least' another 2 weeks before it arrives.

Not a great advert for Echo.

Following on from my recent post about starting issues with my Echo CS-501 my local dealer is failing me to say the least. I need a reliable working saw and I need it now. My other saw - Echo 620 will suffice short term but it's heavy. To cut a long story.....what would be a good replacement for the 501? Professional quality isn't exactly a necessity but a bit of grunt would be nice along with a 15" bar. I tend to use my saws through the winter and 'rest' them for the summer. The Husqy 550 looks good but it's more than I want to pay now that I'm retired and cashflow isn't what it was.

29 minutes ago, spudulike said:

It was on my list but hey ho......

Missed it Spud and went straight for the continuity test but I've also now tried the kill switch and it ain't that either so I've ordered a new coil. I shall update here as soon as I can. Thanks again.

2 hours ago, peatff said:

Has the original poster tried disconnecting the kill switch wire ?

Nope - never thought of that. I'll try it. Thank you.

16 hours ago, spudulike said:

No way of testing the coil as it contains a lot of electronics rather than just a conventional electronic coil.

The usual method is to test the HT lead from the cap to the laminate earth and you should get some sort of reading this way. The next thing is to set the gap much smaller than normal by using printer paper, disconnect the kill wire and see if you get a spark - I open the end electrode up to a 45 degree angle so you really get a good spark as it is easy to think the coil or plug has failed because you aren't generating a big fat spark. Also - give the engine a BIG pull when testing, some need to be spun over fast to generate a nice spark.

If you still don't get a spark, it is very likely that the coil is shot - I did have a flywheel lose its magnetism once but it is rare and rarer still on a modern machine - it is usually heavy impact or age that messes them up!

Just what I needed thanks. I am currently turning the engine with the pull mech removed and using an 18v cordless drill and socket. Fuel is coming through fine but there is definitely no spark. Turns out that the reason I couldn't source a replacement coil is because Echo has changed the part number to P021 037431 and it's around £100 all-in which is somewhat less than a new saw.

39 minutes ago, lux said:

Funny enough mine played up today. Been a faultless saw until now.
Was working fine then mid cut mid morning sounded like a bag of spanners
Didn’t seize but running terrible.
Probably 2.5 yes of daily pretty much daily use

Will investigate later…..

Cracking saw so hopefully an easy fix

Yes it's a solid grunty saw, or would be if it would run but not being able to get spares is a bummer. I'll probably have to buy a replacement which will not be Echo. Problem for me is that it's a strange time for petrol saws with electric versions being the way to go allegedly yet I'm not a fan.

My Echo CS-501sx has died. It appears to be the ignition/magneto as no spark is seen when trying to start - tried with 2 new plugs. Can anyone tell me please how I can electrically test the unit using a meter so I can get a proper verdict on whether it is definitely fargled? It doesn't bode well as I've researched a replacement part (P021-049550) and it would appear that it is unavailable (unless anyone knows better) which is annoying seeing as how the saw is only 5 years old and was not cheap. TIA.

1 minute ago, billpierce said:

If it has a primer this can help shift a vapour lock. If that is what it is.

No primer unfortunately.

I blame Brexit and/or global warming.

Thanks to all.

As usual, this morning (after it has been sitting by itself in my garage for 24 hours) it started 2nd pull.

56 minutes ago, Stubby said:

Does it only happen in very hot weather ? If so could be vapour lock .

Could well be only during hot weather, which makes it worse, as to say I get a bit sweaty when fighting this saw would be an understatement. I'm gonna have to show my ignorance here - what's a vapour lock and how do I avoid or remedy it? (thanks for responding by the way)

Help please.

My Echo CS 501SX is an absolute pig to start from time to time. I cannot rely on it as it is inconsistent...eg  fired up 3rd pull yesterday and I used it without any problems whatsoever for 3 hours. Today it just will not start and I've been using my CS 620SX instead which has never had any issues at all other than it gets a bit heavy for me for continuous use. My 501 has been like this for some years but because it is inconsistent -  finding a fix is virtually impossible as it always behaves when examined by professionals. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I have the same issue on my CS501. It's a nuisance.

Have now ordered and received the Handy Pro THPLS8TE. It's a beast weighing in at around 110kg which is approximately double that of the Lawnflite version which looks very similar in design. I can't comment on its power yet as it arrived laid flat on the pallet resulting in no hydraulic oil within - it had leaked out. Once I replace that I'll try it out. Thanks to all for the replies.

Unfortunately the delivery charge from Ireland to the UK was high enough to make the overall price uncompetitive...I shall continue my search.

On 26/12/2018 at 14:54, Spongey said:

I have had this splitter for 2 years and run quite a bit prob over 80m3 through it (domestic use). It has been cracking also have a 6lb maul and x27. If the wood is easy I go to the x27 as it is quicker but everything else goes through the forest master.

It has been very abused splitting nasty knotty stuff up to 30” wide and found with big bits as long as you take little bites with it is fine!! I have had it in bits once to try and fix the ram returning when the pump was running but couldn’t find the fault (and the splitter still works fine) I have also had to weld the black log support side rails on as the larger pieces of wood stripped the screw threads. Some spare parts are available for them if you do a bit of searching. In hindsight I would of got a vertical splitter to make splitting the bigger stuff easier but for a mains splitter and for the money it has lots of power has only been stopped by a handful of pieces and it eventually went through them!! I have a friend who has the screwfix Titan and the forestmaster is about twice as heavy 47kg and has far less issues with knotty bits

 

 

Thanks for that. Now considering the Hartnett 8 ton vert electric splitter. Higher cost but the spec seems very good. Decisions decisions.

48 minutes ago, Conor Wright said:

Had a qick google of it as i'm not familiar with the make, to be honest, it looks like a.n.other chinese electric splitter, don't expect too much from it. if you are happy to cut your logs shorter it should split some moderately knotty bits but if you require longer logs and are splitting twisty or knotty hardwoods i doubt it would be great.

Saying that, the ram in my processor is abot 7 ton and it splits most of whats put in front of it.

If you own a tractor a hydraulic machine is far more productive

If you are splitting reasonably clean wood it may do the job nicely.. expect it to take longer than splitting with an axe as you will have to wait for it to cleave through the log to seperate the fibers. Also, if splitting larger rounds, consider a vertical machine, its easier to repeatedly split the round when its on end. hope that was of some help, whatever machine you choose, happy splitting!

No tractor...yet so electric is my only option. Thank you for your input.