derwen

This may sound obvious but I'll ask it anyway. We have just bought some unleaded petrol about 4 weeks ago and have it mixed with 2 stroke oil. As we have about 2.5 litres left rather than throw it away ( not sure how) would it be OK to top up with Aspen and run the machines on an unleaded 2 stroke mix with Aspen in it. I assume its OK to use Aspen in any 2 stroke engine (not motor bikes as far too expensive !!). Thanks.

Thanks for the simple explanation. It now starts to make sense. The guy at the Stihl dealer ship said it looked as if the engine had run short of oil or had it got hot as the rings were embedded. I couldn't see how it had run short of oil as I mix it using the Stihl bottle, so accurate measure and wasn't aware of it running hot, but as you say lean running lean causes it to run hot and we have in effect had a lean seizure. New machine and Aspen all round me thinks.

Thanks to all for comments and help. I have read that moving from standard fuel to Aspen can cause the carb rubbers to be come less flexible and shrink back to original with resulting splitting - is this common place or just may happen or not.

We are a small conservation group (volunteers) who manage the habitat on our local river. We have a number of chainsaws and brushcutters etc. Our Stihl MS 250 went in for service as well as not starting. The dealer has found that it has a partial seize ie. pot and piston gone. Reading the forum it looks as if it could have been due to stale unleaded fuel. As we only work once a week a gallon of fuel can last us months - use one or two of tank fulls a week. Debating on repairing existing saw (9 years old) or buying a new one. Also considering using Aspen as we don't use more than a couple of gallons of fuel a year. Will a new saw run on Aspen OK and our other Stihl kit - brushcutter, multitool and large drill. Would the old kit need any carb adjustment or just run OK. My Stihl dealer doesn't sell Aspen but my Husky dealer does. Could be a bit of a problem if I buy it from Husky dealer and then have to take back to Stihl dealer for setting carb. Stihl dealer hadn't heard of Aspen. Any help apprecaited.

Thanks Spudulike. The bar is an Oregon Micro Lite Pro and the chain a Husqvarna 21. In fairness the handbook that came with the saw says that the chain can be 3/8 or 0.325 and the sprocket only shows as number of teeth being 7, which I guess means that it is a common sprocket ?. Thanks to all. Going back to dealer.

I asked the delear if I needed to cahnge the sprocket to match the new chain and bar as one was 3/8yh and the other is .325 but he said no. Need to go back and speak to them again.. Thanks for help,

Yes the small bar is 3/8th and the new bar is .325. The new chain has Husqvarna stamped on it and 21. The new bar is an Oregon, the new chain came in an Oregon box with 21 LPX written on it. Can't find any info on Husqvarna chains. Does anyone know if an Oregon 21 LPX is the same as a Husqvarna 21. Thanks

Hi, looking for some advice. I have a Husky 240 for light work which has a 14" bar and have just bought an 18" bar and chain to suit from local dealer. The bar is an Oregon and rge chain is a Husky 21. Tried fitting the chain and bar today and all look OK until tried turning the chain after tensioning. The chain moves for a couple of links and then wont budge forwatd or back. If I slacken the tension the chain dropps off the bar. Tried tensioning again and same thig happens. When I turn the saw over to look at the sprocket it looks if the cahin is trying to run from inside of sprocket to out side of sprocket - thought maybe a bent link, but when I lay the chain flat it looks OK. Any ideas, although I'm going back to the delear to see if they can sort, but if there is soemthing obvious that more experienced people on here know could save me a "RED FACE". Fair to say I have only used Stihls in the past so I may be not doing something right. Many thanks

Tried this technique today. Fortunately the branch wasn't too high so was able to reach over and cut vertically and then horizontally as normal. Success!!. Really appreciate all you help.

Thanks for the explanation and excellent drawings. I will give it a try. It will depend on water depth/river bed and height of branch across river as to whether I can lift the saw over the branch and pull saw back. Even if I can't manage it on this occasion, definitely one for the future. Once again many thanks for taking the time for explanation and drawing.

Thanks for the information. I know have an idea of what has been tining for a while. Much appreciate your help.

We have an old small Dolmar and the chain creeps, not all the time but more often than not and yes we have that tinging noise. Are you saying tinging is due to weak clutch springs or tight needle bearing. Is it the needle bearing that the chain brake/clutch sit on. Thanks for the help - saw has even been in for service and came out the same. Something I might look at myself - any tips help much appreciated.

Thanks for trying to save me money. The problem is the tree has fallen and is across the river, with one major branch on the river bed, which is ok as it will be left to form a weir. We are looking to remove the upper branches. The majority have been cut back and now have some about 16" diameter (main limbs). The problem is I can only stand in the water upstream of the tree and cut. The water is too deep to go down stream and put another cut in from the other side. So an extra 2" would help. Unless there is something obvious I'm missing - in being able to cut 16" from one side, any help appreciated.

Thanks for quick reply. The pitch is .325". An 18" bar would be fine as it gives me an extra 2".

Hi, I do a lot of conservation work with our local rivers trust. They have a Stihl MS 250 and has been used for well over 6 years. The bar at the moment is 40cm (16"), however we have a large tree down over a river and are looking to increase the bar size to cope with the large diameter of the tree. Can anyone advise what is the biggest bar that can be fitted. We don't want to buy a bigger saw for what will be limited work. If I go to a bigger bar and compatible chain, will I need to change the sprocket as well. I have the necessary CS tickets. Thanks