JAMIE1

can you post a pic of the part your after? i may have one kicking about. but it dosnt have a part number on and its deffinately of a stihl hedgecutter, I had a hs60 as my first cutter and it was parted out but cant remember if this part is off it.

Fuel pipes were replaced at the dealers when the carb was cleaned.

Sometimes, but not always they bog down when tilted with exhaust side of engine facing ground and carb facing up.

The airfilter has been wet, though I haven't noticed it recently.

Metering valve is set level with the top of the body of the carb.

I'm glad it's not just me that can't work it out! Many thanks for the help so far.

Could be that the piston is worn. Worn piston skirts cause fuel to come back through the carb.

Yup, thats your problem, new piston kit required and a little bit of work on the cylinder.

They insist it is due to the service.

What happens there then? Do they back down or still insist its because of your service? We once had a kit for testing the fuel that was in the carb to see if it was 50-1 mix.

Just reuse old flywheel, the one with sheared keyway. It's not needed.

Ditto, the amount of people that think the key is used to drive the flywheel astounds me, aslong as the mating surface on the crank and flywheel are clean and the nut is correctly torqued it will work exactly the same. The key is only used for alignment.

They will be available by the end of October

Will they be backwards engineered chinese crap?

I once bought a 026 clyinder and piston kit from the a seller on ebay uk who is based in hong kong and the quality was horrendous, very poor castings, the machining was as rough as, and the spark plug and decopm threads were well oversize. I would never buy an after market mechanical part again. Wouldnt even use their gaskets and crank seals either.

Just picked up a box of 024 026 bits at carboot sale, only wanted the top cover and air filter cover, all the rest was nuts, bolts an cobwebs. Get home and have a proper look and there are 3 good condition used cranks, How do i tell if these are 024 or 026 cranks?

Some customers have 2 new cars on the drive and F**K all in the fridge. Keeping up with nextdoor.

Some customers have 2 new cars on the drive and F**K all in the fridge. Keeping up with nextdoor.

For two stroke engines you need one with a schrader valve in the end (exactly like the valve in a car tyre) you cant use 4 stroke compression testers on 2 stroke machines.

When it wont start and is hard to pull over, tip the saw on its end (bar nose down) does fuel run out of the exhaust?

Have you got the serial numbers written down? Because if the police do find them they sure as hell wont let you have them back with recognising the wear and tear as idenification. Happened to one of my customers previously, had to be serial numbers.

Stihl 024 that apparently "worked fine when i put it away last month". But for a tenner from the local car boot im not bothered, just wanted the carb, exhaust and recoil housing for an ongoing project.

A couple i know were intresed in buying a house with the same, they enquired and were told by someone in the planning offices to buy 7 chickens and sell the eggs at their gate. This would qualify them for Agricultural occupancy.

also dont you need tickets to but 201's brand new from a dealer? Unqualifed people are buying then on ebay and doing work that only qualified people should be doing.

Impulse hose not connected pretty mush describes these symptoms.

Get a new fuel pipe. About £4 from a Stihl dealer. £4 plus £2 postage on ebay. Its a typical problem with these.

 

Seen a Sealey one on ebay that I didnt think looked bad your thoughts?

 

Sealey VS403 Vacuum & Pressure Test/Bleed Kit | eBay

 

Cheers

Chris

Thats the one we use and its been a great bit of kit, slightly pricey at £79.99 i think we paid £59.99 4 years ago, but if ours got damaged i wouldnt think twice at shelling out for another. The black plastic connectors cover a full range of sizes and can be cut easily with a stanley knife to increase their bore size. Never tried it for bleeding brakes though.

The hardest two parts to find for a 200!

Novel way of splitting the crankcase, always a loathsome job, are you sure that plastic bag isn't some sort of tank sealer - bit of a strange one!

It's the only way i split them, ive never known another way. Didnt really look at the bag closely but it looked like a freezer bag with the white patches where your suppost to write whats in it and the date. Will inspect closer tomorrow when the cases go into the parts washer then onto grit blast.

Pulling the flywheel and splitting the crankcase on a very neglected stihl 026. Last pic there was a folded up plastic bag in the oil tank,

Spud, That 200 your testing, shouldnt you assemble it and test the impulse line and the inlet manifold clamp aswell?

You could part that out and make around £70

Can anybody tell me what is the factory setting for a single needle carb on a TS400 cut off saw.

cheers.