Daniël Bos

56 minutes ago, GarethM said:

Lack of oil in the mix would be my guess.

It's what I'd guess if I didn't know better.

They have almost clear petrol here and red oil, there was definitely oil (though nobody knows how much oil...)

56 minutes ago, Dan Maynard said:

I'm thinking lean can be caused by too much air, or not enough fuel - maybe carb blocked with fines? Carrying on with blunt chain produces a lot of dust, how is their sharpening?

Air filter is clean, carb is clear.

They're using a carbide tipped chain that isn't blunt 

I'm in Australia helping a friend on their farm and their 2020 261 died whilst cutting firewood.

I was fairly surprised they had a 261, farmers tend to go bigger but cheaper...

Anyway, it got hot and lost compression. I advised them to dump the fuel from the other saws (026 and 211) using the same can just in case and there were no further issues with these two other saws in the rest of the two days of use.

The 261 got hot (very hot) and lost compression.

I tore it apart and found the piston had a hole melted through... The bore is scored beyond repair.

I can't feel any play in the crank, the carb boot is supple and without splits or tears etc. I've not yet taken the flywheel or clutch off to inspect the seals but i've not seen seals fail without the bearing failing first in a saw so young? 

Spark plug looks a nice colour, maybe even a little dark?

So how did it get so hot? 

I think I'll rebuild it it with an aftermarket p+c (a Stihl p+c is more than half the cost of a new saw here)

Some police officers might be human people after all...?

Update: It went for 1000 euro-dollars (roughly 950 brit-bucks at the moment).

I got offered 1100 after, but was already in negotiations with a quicker buyer.

Buyer was happy, I'm happy, I believe the butler is happy too, all good!

How much do you get paid to wear those socks?

too soon

Mine was a late model, but I haven't held one for nearly a decade so I wasn't sure.

As it's so clean i figured it'd be worth a punt but I'd completely forgotten about the two different sizes.

Found a saw for sale online, but there's only these two pictures.

The last 346 i had (and stupidly sold to Adam Bourne) I'm sure had grey clips to hold the top cover. My 365 and 372 also have grey clips, making me think the pro models had grey, the homeowner saws orange?

I also have doubts about the fuel and oil lids?

Whaddayareckon?

Easiest way to save fuel is to make sure your driver's care.

You have a baseline consumption figure, give whoever uses the least fuel comparitively something good. Slab of Stella/ credit for shiny things at yr favourite arb shop/ a big paper crown/ whatever fits.

Make it fun and worthwhile to care.

21 minutes ago, pleasant said:

My near 60 year old tool is still performing much better than some of those younger ones out there. 

Do you swing your tool beside those younger ones regularly for comparison?

Thanks all.

I reckon that makes the average opinion around £1k?

As mentioned, it's for sale in the Netherlands with current bidding at €900. I'll let it go as long as it makes over 1k then.

Pretty insane really, a ten year old tool fetching two thirds of new price! (I'm not complaining!)

I'm selling my 880, but in the Netherlands and was just wondering what the congregation reckons it's worth if I sold her in Britland?

Bought new in 2013

Very little use.

Never run on petrol, Aspen only.

Runs excellent.

Comes with 4ft sugi, two chains (50 and 75% left), nose sprocket change jig tool thingie.

Just to clarify, I'm after opinions not offers.

20 hours ago, Mark Bolam said:

Dan wins.

Thread over.

This.

Inadequate tools teach bad habits. Much better to learn to use a tool well if itś a good tool to start with.

3 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

Yes really. Otherwise why would the police remove him? 
 

Was he living there legally or not? Simple question. 

I don't know where you got the police involved?

All information provided is that the council have announced they want him to not live wherever he lives. Nowhere in the previous conversation is there any mention of anything illegal, just the council's intention. I've some experience with local governments doing whatever the flying fish they feel like, presuming the're in the right is on par with little red riding hood believing  a wolf in drag was her own grandmother....

Just my opinion.

18 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

Man living illegally gets dealt with by the police appropriately. 🤷🏻‍♂️

I'm not easily triggered (pun intended) but : "Man living illegally...." really?

*****UPDATE*****

Spoiler, it fell off the roof...

So, took a while to get to this stage, got actual work to do as well!

I first went back to the beginning, the mount for the coil wasn't as it should be so i removed all my JB weld bodgery and fabricobbled a sturdy aluminum bracket riveted to the casing in four places. 

Convinced by its sturdiness I resumed testing. The original coil gave no signs of life still, but one I robbed off a lawnmower did!

I couldn't mount the lawnmower one due to size  restrictions so I went to order a new one.

Turns out they've been making mowers like this one for a looooong time, with many small changes but none so obvious that it makes determination of what one I have exactly an easy job. What also didn't help is the chassisnumber being printed on a sticker and thus long gone.

So I went to Germany to visit the dealer who told me my coil was unavailable and had been superseded. "This one fits all 6hp two strokes" he said confidently...

It didn't quite, but with some adaptation of my homemade mount, and sticking two individual plates of the old coil over the new one I got it mounted securely and got ignition!

Not long after that she ran, and with a little fiddling it ran quite good.

Tried to do some adjustments as it revved over 5k, when it's supposed to max out at 4500. Adjustments are done by turning the governor mount (which is a vane beside the flywheel/fan) more or less towards the flywheel, thereby changing at what rpm the wind blows that vane aside and with that closes the throttle.

Happy with my results so far, I went to field testing.

The thing was bought because we have three large grass roofs that need mowing once a year, so steep (everything not perfectly flat is seen as steep here in the Netherlands) and overgrown.

So up I go, and bruummmmm!!! We're mowing! It mows quick and easy!

I'm focused on my tacho, seeing what it revs like under load etc, making sure I don't hit the roof mounted fall arrest system, not falling off etc.

So focused that I didn't notice the angry swarm of wasps whose home I just demolished...

They announced themselves all at once.

I stopped the mower, made sure the dead-man was functioning and the mower no longer moving, and ran!

Assisted by the wee beasties to keep going I was 50 or so meters away when the engine was almost at zero rpm.

At almost zero rpm however, it shakes the machine much more than at operating speed.

The shaking caused it to shift a little, after which it started it's irreversible tumble down the roof.

I could but stand and stare.

It fell in a relatively lucky place, on soil.

It managed to land upside down, and got bent somewhat...

My recovery attempts were hampered by the swarm, but after a little wait I got back to it and it still runs like a champ!

All it needs now is some new av mounts, and a good session with a big hammer to readjust the various bent bits.

And then, it'll be perfect...!

13 hours ago, john87 said:

Perhaps it is just knackered.. Try this as a final test, it has never failed me..

Put in brand new fuel. Take out the plug and heat the end bit literally red hot with a blow lamp. Put it back in as fast as you can and try to start the thing. 99% certain it will go first pull..

 

john..

A final test of what exactly?

What would doing that tell me?

9 hours ago, john87 said:

Missed the bit about spark as i did not read through whole thread. HOWEVER, in the very first post the poster states it runs but roughly.

 

So.. Does it have a spark or not???

 

john..

It didn't, then it did for a little bit, then the spark died and now I can't figure out why it doesn't spark without throwing money at it.

32 minutes ago, Stubby said:

100:1 will kill it ? Depends on the oil .  How will EXACTLY the " wrong " fuel cause there to be no spark ?  Await with interest 🙂

Pretty sure his remark was directed at Grassy dude's comments about his one('s) being very fussy about fuel mixtures and erratic behaviour unless it's just right.

More confused.

I swapped the coil with an ms880 one (coz biggest flywheel in my 2t collection)

No spark.

Tried a (4t) lawnmower coil.

No spark.

Tried the AS coil on said lawnmower.

No spark.

To rule out a break in earth continuity due to my JB weld, I put on a separate earth wire straight to the plug threads, no spark 

Flywheels can stop functioning, but then I'd expect a weak spark?

Also, it sparked really well for a bit when I got it going at first, followed by absolutely zero spark, which makes me think coil is bad, but then why do I get no spark from the other coils either?

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh!

I'm pretty sparsely thatched already, otherwise I'd be pulling out hair at this point 

1 hour ago, Grassyass said:

It’s  a long lead from the coil to the plug if I recall plenty of points to get damaged ,if you get away with just a coil not to expensive a fix , if it had good pull when it was running  that’s a start, the gear boxes on the ones I had all went in the end , I was given the three wheel one to demo but didn’t get on with it found it to light on the front going up slopes ,and the front wheel seemed to dig in on  any ruts on the flat , they aren’t cheap so if you get it running you might be quids in, 

It's a long lead indeed.

But I've tried to find some spark at the beginning of it by clamping my tach there, no luck.

I do find it weird that it's resistance is about right.

Unless if maybe it has a break in the internal insulation causing an arc that's easier to make than the spark arc yet open circuit when I measure it?

The whole story, from the start:

Was brought to me from an auction, a mower business went under.

Visual inspection, nothing obviously missing, fuel smells normal, has compression.

Changed the fuel for fresh.

But no start.

Checked for spark, no spark.

Tried to check coil gap, found the shroud that the coil screws onto to be cracked.

Jb-weld repair coz quick and cheap, no point in a "proper job" if there's a major fault elsewhere.

Set gap to .25mm got good spark.

Tugged her into life and all sounded ok!

Went for a wee trial run, found throttle response to be extremely slow (but maybe that's just how it is?)

Idling rough, bit spluttery overall.

Then it died and I couldn't restart it.

Checked my JB bodge, which held strong and coil gap was still good.

So went to the carb. Cleaned it, found some corrosion smutz in the float bowl but no serious varnishing or blockages or such.

Put it back together, no go.

Posted for help on here as it didn't seem like the governor setup was how I'd expect it to be.

Tried to run it on carb cleaner, no go, injection of petrol down the intake also didn't get any results so back to the spark check.

No spark.

Measured 5.4 kilo-ohm across the coil, which I reckon is about right.

JB weld still good, coil gap just right, kill wire detached, no obvious breaksinspark wire, tacho clamped right against coil shows no sign of life.

Don't have any other coils that fit.

May try an ms880 coil just to see if I can get it to run long enough to find out if it works ok for what we need.

A new coil is €90, a carb €250!

23 hours ago, AHPP said:

I would probably lavish a new spark plug upon it first and then investigate the governor. 

I did just that, which got it running.

Then once running it was behaving erratically. It would run perfect, then suddenly die, then stutter, then die again.

Hence me looking at the weird carb.

22 hours ago, pleasant said:

Since 2021 been owned by Ariens.

 

This manual not the right one then?

 

AS Motor 2 Stroke Engine (pdf | Manualzz

MANUALZZ.COM

 

That's the one!

That's very helpful thank you.

19 hours ago, Grassyass said:

I have this same engine on another as mower , it is the most erratic engine I’ve ever know , since brand new been a pain . They are two stroke but won’t run right on standard mix , it needs there own two stroke oil, if you run it on 100-1 seems to run better, I think it comes down  to the jets in the carb being very small , the carb always blocks , spent more time in the ultra sonic cleaner than on the mower, I had all the set up info from the manual sent from the dealer , if your struggling I could see if I can find it,

This isn't what I was hoping for...

9 hours ago, spudulike said:

Sounds like a governor, if the engine revs get too high, the flywheel causes the flap to move which in turn shuts off the carb like a choke would and lowers the revs. Lawnmowers seem to do this a lot.

I know bugger all about your mower but if it is like most, make sure the float bowl is clear of debris and water and make sure the main jet is clear of dirt.

Yeah, I've done the usual clean etc.

I've not encountered such a beast before, and there is very little info on the interwebs but I suspect it may be missing a return spring on the governor setup.