browncow

I just have another eye splice on the tail of my lanyard. Probably not technically a stopper knot but its not going through my cinch so I'm happy and it gives me a few more options with my lanyard.

check it hasnt knicked a hole in the rubber manifold, maybe drawing air there

Cheers mate, you were bang on. All sorted now:001_smile:

Bro:( your slipping fella...

It was pretty funny bro, last cut on the last tree of the year before my months holiday. Should have had a bigger saw sent up, should have scarfed it instead of tearing it, should have made sure the groundies knew to let it run...... didn't do any of that and was lucky to get away with just a smashed handle really.

Just came down, felled the stem over and went on hoiliday:001_tongue:

All sorted now, brought some parts back from my spares in NZ and with the new rubber boot it cost me 40 odd bucks:001_smile:

I think you may be on the money, cheers bro

I managed to get my saw in between a piece being lowered and the trunk and smashed the top handle on my old 200t. I have replaced it with a spare handle I had and now the saw is way out of tune. It runs on at idle speed, doesn't pick up to full revs smoothly and blips a bit at full power.

Any thoughts as to whether this is related to my replacement of the handle or something else that was affected when it was smashed.

Cheers

I hear people all the time talking about side loading biners being such a bad/taboo thing. As long as the gate is secure whats the prob? Biners ARE rated to be loaded across their axis. Just stay within these limits methinks.

I use biners for nearly all rigging and have never had one fail in this configuration. They don't work very well as replacements for lowering blocks though

put the bar and chain from a 200 on the 201 yesterday and it made it a lot better. still feels a tad underpowered though

Are the bars different between the 201 and the 200?

I was given one of those new full chisel chains to run on my ms200t. I am not a fan however it still cut better than the ms201t I tried. I don't think this saws probs can be put down to the bar and chain. I'm going to get me another 200t before they are all gone:001_smile:

280ft for a huge Burnt Dead Euc, hoping to go higher over Xmas and new years in tassy, they are the biggest in Australia over 300ft. free climbed a crane once, to be fair it was more of a epic ladder climb and then dodgy bit at the top. truly amazing experience 740ft what a view man. the higher the better! keep on doing it guys, push the Limits!

 

Cheers MOG

How tall are the biggest ones in Tassie bro? I am in Perth and we have measured a couple down south we have worked on at 80-85m and know of one or two really tall looking buggers that have yet to be measured. Would be pretty cool to find a new tallest tree:thumbup:

Interesting to hear the feedback on the ms201. I used one for a few days a couple of months ago and found it was bogging a bit when trying to pick up to full revs but maybe it was due for a tune up. I need to buy a new saw in the new year and was not sure whether to go the ms201 or stick with the 200t. Any other feedback would be appreciated.

Just brought a gopro myself. I might even take it to work.

Just need to practice two handed cutting, remaining tied in at all times, not cutting at head height... ah yes, and get my groundies to wear PPE. Then my vids might be fit for public viewing

Check these guys out. This is a bunch of russians in Kjerag, Norway. A popular site for big wall base jumping. Thay are doing over 1000 foot freefalls on ropes!!!

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNXS9L-GWjM]Rope Jumping WORLD RECORD Project Norway 2010 - YouTube[/ame]

This vid shows you how to install a cambium saver on a straight stem. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GmHWp8aCus]Installing Cambium or Friction Saver on Straight Limb - YouTube[/ame]

For simply decending on a pole I will often tie a running bowline with a long tail and descend on my normal hitch with a munter hitch as back-up. You can also clip your lanyard into the bowline tail for some extra length without the hassle of tying the knot with a long tail. If that makes sense.

Done some deadwooding up around 250 - 260 feet. Big Karri Trees in Western Australia. The nature of the trees makes it seem real high due to the exposure and the fact the deadwood is usually out on the tips at the same height or higher than your tie in point. Good fun but scary too

Can anyone elaborate on the difference between class 1 & 2??

Class one splices are for double braid ropes which share the load between the core and the cover. Class two splices are for core dependent ropes and single braids.

I would have cut it and said 'you'll thank me later!'

Funny you say that, last time I saw something similar it was a super short bury (like 6 inches) on a 16 strand splice. I told the guy if he cut it there and then I would give him my spare lanyard to replace it.

As to the dodgy looking screwgate, yeah it looks pretty rooted.

Thats unbelievable!!!

 

Youve obviously learned over the years not to trust these muppets.

Yeah bro, they are all trying to kill you, be afraid:001_tt2:

Saw this lanyard in a pile of gear while doing some contract climbing for a company I had not worked for before. sketchy!! I have seen some dodgy things before but this one takes the cake. A piece of double braid rope wrapped around the thimble then 'grizzly spliced' (and I use that term loosely) using wire. Take a look for yourselves. Sorry the pic was a bit hurried.

I told the bloke he was mad but stopped short of cutting the thing in half as he seemed to have a few screws loose.

Blue tongue is exactly the same as poison ivy just a different colour jacket, jo just search for any review on poison ivy. It used to have a different core but in order to gain CE certification the core was changed to meet the standard.

Yeah they say that its the same as Poison Ivy, but I reckon blue tongue feels smaller in the hand, is more slippery and takes longer to soften up. I have been climbing on it for a few months and whilst its ok, I won't be buying another length when this one needs replacing. Just my 2 cents worth.

If you are worried about the tree splitting and crushing you then do it differently . I think the soft-link would more come into play for rescue situations where the climbers weight is on the flipline and cutting the soft-link is easier than getting the biner/snap undone.

If you are on the ground and you tie on your retrieval ball and throw line. Pull the rope through, the pulley saver will come out and the throw line will go over the crotch/branch. Simply lower the pulley saver with the throw line. It's just the reverse of installing a cambium saver from the ground.

The prob with that method when using a soft eye pulley saver is the potential for the throwline to cut into the soft eye.

One easy method is to drape the tail of your rope over a branch halfway down when you are leaving the tree and using a small biner attach the tail to the prussik side of your line (above the prussik). When you retieve the pulley saver it will be caught by the tail of the rope and can be lowered out.

Otherwise you can throw a throwline in after you are on the ground and clip the throwbag to the prussik side of the rope again and pull it up the rope. Same result as the other method.

Hope these make sense. Good luck.

Finding it difficult to retrieve pulley saver in any configuration any tips welcome!

Thanks in advance.

As said above, set it a little loose to allow room for the pulley to flip through the eye. Then when you are ready to retrieve don't just pull on the line but flip it forwards and backwards to send ripples up the line to help the pulley to flip through. This works well on shorter trees up to 20-25m.

Otherwise set a throwline higher than your anchorpoint and then you can easily fish it out. Hope this helps.

Thanks guys, the reason I want to make one is not because I can't buy one, its because I can make one for $50 or so and have it customised to my length and I like pottering. I am in Australia so don't need to worry about loler/CE and what not.

Yep Drew, I am not worried about chainsaw resistance, just want something I can flip up rough bark easier.Might look into some of the plastic coated wire ropes around, or like you say bro some thin break cable type rope.

I was thinking of making a wirecore flipline using 16 strand rope with the core removed and replaced with 3 or 4mm braided wire rope. Has anyone made one and have any tips?

I was mainly wondering what to do with the ends of the rope. Should I just cover the end of the wire with insulation tape and terminate the rope with a fisherman knot. If I do it this way the wire is only for stiffness and not load bearing which is ok but I am worried the wire end inside might chafe at the rope if the tape comes off. If anyone has any good ideas I would appreciate them. Even bad ideas will be considered.

Any decent chandlery should stock a range of sizes.

a couple from the weekend

 

Foot Lock prussic- 8mm Bee Line class 1 DB

XTC rope guide 12mm 16strand splice

Hi Craig, have you break-tested or know of any tests with 8mm beeline spliced as a class 1?