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Johnleddo

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Posts posted by Johnleddo

  1. Hello Folks,

    I've had a post in the chainsaw forum but thought it might be worth trying one in here too.

     

    I'm looking for a bar for a partner P100 saw its to go in a 36" alaskan so ideally I'd like a 42" bar. I'd be interested in any advice as to wether the saw will have enough power for a bar that size or not?

     

    I have got a 3/8 sprocket fitted to the saw so any of the following bars should fit i think.

     

    Forester HV4263125W

    Husqvarna HT-383-125

    Oregon 423RNDD009

    Stens HV42-63PA

    Windsor 42EM63STA

     

    Thanks in advance

    John

  2. Thanks Al for clarifying that. I'm hoping to mount it into a 36" Alaskan mill & I'm looking for a longer bar so I can get the full 36" cut out of it. That said I don't know about these saws and if it'll be powerful enough for that, do you know much about them?

     

    I've read somewhere that they are about 6.1hp which is the same as my ms460 so I just hope it's got a load more torque.

     

    Thanks again

    John

  3. Thanks Al the more possible options the better;)

     

    I've done some looking to day and I think any of the following should do the job

     

    Forester HV4263125W

    Husqvarna HT-383-125

    Oregon 423RNDD009

    Stens HV42-63PA

    Windsor 42EM63STA

     

    Or any other that meets this spec 42" 3/8, .063, 125-DL

     

    I'm not fussy, no brand snobbery here just need a bar!

    Cheers

    John

  4. Humm, I think from what you are saying i might be best looking for a newer saw, I'm fine about fixing a saw up if it's not running but I'm not looking for something that's going to take a lot of time (i need a working saw not a hobby) maybe I should be looking for a brand other than Stihl or husvarna so i might get a slightly newer saw on a budget.

     

    Another possibility is if I could squeeze some extra power out of the biggest saw I already have (ms460) not sure if that's possible or not?

  5. Thanks for the info. I'd seen a non runner 075av on eBay that would have needed some parts including possibly an ignition coil, I looked around and found that Stihl have discontinued the part so didn't want to end up with a non runner that I couldn't get bits for. Does any one know if getting hold of parts for 075's is difficult? I think that saw sold for about £130 which seems reasonable so long as it wouldn't cost a fortune to get going again?

  6. Hello folks,

    I'm looking for a large old and preferably cheap chainsaw to do some milling work with. It will need to pull at least a 36" chain and possibly a 42" so something 100cc plus would be ideal. If it's a non runner or needs a little tlc then that's fine as well I'm open to any suggestions and advice as to what might be suitable?

     

    So if you have something you think might do the job and are looking to sell it please let me know?

     

    Many thanks

    John

  7. Hello

     

    I thought I would try a post on here as I'm trying to get set up with my first mill and mill saw I'd really like a 36" Alaskan mill and a saw to power it as well. Its my first milling experience so i could do with a cheap set up to start with then if it goes well and I am getting the use out of it I'll upgrade. Following some advice from Rob at Chainsawbars I could do with a saw that will pull a 42" bar and chain (100cc+) and intend to mount it in a 36"mill to obtain as close to a 36" cut as possible.

     

    I thought I'd try a post on here before splashing out for new equipment so if you have a big old saw and or a 36" Alaskan mill lying around that dosent get used any more or a non runner that needs some tlc that you'd like to sell please let me know.

     

    Many thanks

     

    John

  8. Yep I think after a close inspection you are both absolutely right the damage to the cylinder is too bad to re use, like timber cutter has mentioned its particularly bad damage on the exhaust side and there are a couple of deeper marks on the intake side.

     

    I have ordered a non genuine stihl replacement cylinder and piston, to buy origional Stihl parts just seems un affordable. So I'll get them fitted and hopefully be back up an running.

     

    I have checked the big end for debris and cant see anything I've also had the saw upside down and given it a good shake with the big end in all positions, If I can I'll get it to a compressor and give it a blow out before reassembling it.

     

    When you mentioned pressure testing Spud what exactly does that involve?

    Cheers for the advice

    John

  9. Hi Spud, thanks very much for your input.

    I have checked for any markings on the underside of the piston and there don't seem to be any so if that makes it an origional part or not I'm not sure.

     

    Both of the piston ring pins are still there and the big end seems to be intact and working correctly. When I pull the rod vertically there is no play at all, however if I move the rod left to right there is play and I'm not sure if this ok or if it means the big end is goosed?

     

    I also can't find any other debris in the crank case or exhaust.

     

    What you have mentioned about the oil going off in the saw could be a realistic possibility, this is my biggest saw and its not in use every day so that fuel mix could have sat in it for a month I guess. Could be a valuable lesson learned there!

     

    Thanks again for your reply

  10. Hi Folks,

    I have just joined the fourm and have am hoping I might be able to get some advice about my sick MS460.

     

    The brief history of the problem is as follows. The saw stopped working about a month ago whilst i was using it, I didn't have time to look into it then but I suspected the piston had siezed in the barrel (pull cord was tight etc).

     

    I have since stripped barrel and piston out of it and found that the piston has two deep sctatches on the intake side (the back of the piston when its in the saw I think!)

     

    Pic 1 shows the scratches, and the piston had quite a lot of black residue on the exhaust side shown in pic 2

     

    The condition of the barrel is shown in the following 3 pictures, other than what can be seen it has two rough lumps that would match with the scratches in the piston.

     

    As to the cause I' a bit lost, the only thing I had done differently with the saw was at a job when I ran out of two stroke so went to B&Q and bought a one shot 50:1 two stoke oil mix. it wasn't a stihl, oregon etc brand of oil but i figured it would be ok, I will have ran about 5litres of the mix through this saw, so I'm wondering if that might have done the damage.

     

    Other than that whilst stripping it down I noticed one of the circlips that holds the piston in place on the crank had one of the turned in ends missing, so i wondered if this might have found its way in to the barrel?

     

    I'm wondering if

    (1. Do I need to replace the piston and barrel, or could get away with a new piston and cleaning up the barrel?

    (2. Is it likely to have been caused by the oil i used or do I need to investigate for other problems?

     

    If anyone has any thoughts or advice I'd be really grateful to hear them as its my first real exploration into the internal workings of a chain saw! Also its a great saw and a shame to have it out of action.

     

    Many thanks

    John

    cylinder3.jpg.02984f99ab7d6710a979bc9aea37b9bf.jpg

    cylinder2.jpg.1c46e941fa765e9423b69aa26202a134.jpg

    cylinder1.jpg.3255faa0edfd2ffe117aff84599b53d7.jpg

    5976595ceb1ee_piston2.jpg.233d9b6a92e3fff6597d6ffc4e886969.jpg

    5976595ce85dd_piston1.jpg.bd8c2412a1c321ba8532e5bc18fd6113.jpg

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