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Wex

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Posts posted by Wex

  1. They're of the blue box variety.The heads are LR tho.TBH they're ok and give plenty of vision.Little bit of play in them tho but no shaking when driving , yet . I originally had a set of standard arms bolted to a bit of 40 x 20 box section but these new ones were given to me by a good friend.

  2. Here's my truck.I bought it as a chassis cab , twisted bonnet , mangled roof , shot rear X member , mouldy electrics , mangledhalfshafts etc etc. I replaced everything , back to bare metal , several coats of paint ( roller) , Terrafirma expedtion shocks , springs , + 2 lift , BF hoses , hd shafts and drivemembers.Found an old utilities box body , cut it down and bolted it on.Bought a new 12v power pack & 4 stage 3.5 ton bottle ram and made up a new tipping bed and sides.All using a cheapy Aldi stick welder.I put two storage cages in under the tipping bed which are accessed by screwing off the tie down eyes.The pump and split charge battery is fitted in the storage box.After a years work it passed its DOE (MOT) last Saturday.It got 4 days solid driving and work this week . Currently making a roof rack for it and will be fitting a water heater for handwash.Have to say I absoleutely hated it for the last few weeks before it's test but now love it :001_smile: Here's a few pics and theres a few hundred in the photobucket album showing various stages , linked below

    2012-09-04100232.jpg

    2012-09-04100501.jpg

    2012-09-04100310.jpg

    2012-09-04100343.jpg

    2012-09-04141053.jpg

     

    http://photobucket.com/arbtruck

  3. The electric switch screws into the transfer box casing and theres a spring loaded plunger on the end of it.When the linkage within the box (not outside from the lever) passes by the switch into the engaged position it pushesthe plunger back up into the switch making a circuit bringing the dash light on.Sometimes the plunger on the end of the switch gets gunged up with stale gearbox oil etc and sticks in the "on" position even though you may have disengaged the difflock.Just a remove and clean does the trick . Never had to replace one myself unless the pos or neg tabs were cream crackered . But like you say a bit of usage might free it up.Check both box oil levels aswell:thumbup1:

  4. I have a problem developing on my discovery 1, was driving and the diff lock light was flickering on the dash.

     

    Lever is ok, was doing about 30mph, have been using it shortly to get in and out of a gateway but that's it.

     

    I can feel it engaging when the light flickers, a bit worried its going to come on and stay on, is there a way if disengaging it at the axle?

     

    The electric on/off switch will be sticking on the transfer box.It's on the top right of the transfer box where it meets the gearbox,pull off the 2 pos neg wires and unscrew.Clean it and screw it back in but you'll have to dick about with the threaded stop/lock nut on it to make sure its not set too deep or it will show that the diff is locked when its not.Thats the way I remember it anyway

  5. Just bought a defender 130 flat bed to convert to a tipper, so would appreciate any advice.

     

    Bought a 130 chassis cab a year ago , nearly finished.I'll post up once it's done.Made my own tipper from scratch but have seen a few here use cut down transit tipper beds to good effect.Some threads here already on it.

  6. England is not much better I would have thought

    What does basic chainsaw cost=crosscutting

    Here it's around £400

     

    CS30 & 31 are usually combined for around Euro €700 approx if I remember correctly , 38/39 €1275 , 32 €575 ish , 40/41 combined €875 ish.I don't regret spending a penny on any of them.

     

    And to the OP , good luck with it :thumbup1:

  7. I go to local small business network meetings now and again which are free.Have made a few good contacts , referrals and a few small jobs.But 600 bucks buys a good few weeks advertising in the local papers.Agree it's for certain types of businesses

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