Lyndon

The instructor will be far more impressed if you have made an effort to learn as much as you can and you climb safely than if you climb quickly and poorly.

Learn basic climbing hazards, 5 points of a risk assessment and the 3 knot system and you will be fine. Turn up keen to learn and it will be easy

If you want to work in arb for money your walking a difficult path. Most of us do it because we love the outdoors and trees, money comes with experience not tickets in my opinion. Its the best job in the world on a sunny day and the worst when its raining and your working on a shitty, slimy, bendy, ivy covered sycamore over a greenhouse.

Read these too

GS6 – Avoidance of Danger from Overhead Lines.

HS(G) 47 – Avoiding Danger from Underground Services.

AFAG 804 – Electricity at Work: Forestry and Arboriculture.

You want to do a bit on the categories of trees and their meanings, proximity zones and vicinity zones. Everything else is easy enough. the main thing is listen when you get there!

Hi guys, I'm currently doing a large scale road side hazard tree survey and looking at what is the best software and GPS device to use. So far pear tech and eazytreev are looking like the best contenders. How are people finding them? any pros and cons of either?

Mainly I Need the ability to geo tag each tree on the map and add a photo or two. And the ability to live link with my colleague who will be working either just behind or in front of me on the same plot

My next dilemma is what bit of kit to use them with. I'm lucky enough that budget is not really a problem as long as its the best tool for the job.

so far its either a trimble or Motion R12 tablets

Again anyone use either? any pros and cons of either?

Any help or advise would be great. Thanks guys

its a lime, the mass of growth around the base is a big sign when you cant get close to check out the buds.

Good on you for getting out and trying to make a good impression. Over the years people can teach you all the arb skills you need but no one can teach you to want to be a good arb man and it looks like you've got that already. All you need now is the right people to give you the right chances. Keep learning and stay safe and you will be running your own crew in no time. Keep it up!

I'm doing mine in march. any tips on what to look out for?

thanks

I've got a 2.5td Jeep Grand Cherokee top spec for sale, if you've not got to far to drive the petrol ones are cheap and very strong off-road, just shite on petrol awesome build quality. If not then either a discovery or a daihatsu sportrak

I would start with a treemotion as it is by far the best harness I have ever had.

Then I would go for

1. Main line of over 30m with a spliced eye

2. 5 m lanyard with a spliced eye

3. Eye to eye friction cord x2 one for lanyard and one for main line

4. 2m of friction cord to make some prussic loops

5. 5x triple lock krab's

6.micro pulley

7. Petzel climbing lid

8. Silky zubat 300mm

9. First aid kit

I wouldn't bother with spikes yet as learning to climb without them will make you a better climber in the long run. Low and slow is the way to practice. Once you get bored of the prussic loop move on to a hitch climber as it will help make everything smooth and easy. For your lanyard knot I would start with a mitchocan as once you have learned that you can use it with a hitch climber on your main line. I think it's a better knot for learners as it bites a bit easier than a vt so you end up with less brown trouser moments while learning. Good luck and enjoy!

I'm looking for work to keep me busy until the end of October, I've been climbing for 6 years and have most of the usual tickets up to cs41 and the U.S. Tickets up to 2.3 cv and references available. Pm me with any questions. Thanks

Did you find someone?

Hi

 

Does anyone have any info or a link where I could find out WPD's Live, Vicinity, Proximity distances and the minimum clearance distances?

I will check in the van tomorrow for you, if you don't get a reply just message me tomorrow

Coden fach in brandy cove or gowerplants.com which is near llangenith

Treemotion, tacyon, couple of dmm oval crabs and op e2e friction cord

When in work position I choker my lanyard aswell as my main line which can help counteract a lean

There is no egr on a 200 tdi, get shot of the center silencer too! Diff lock linkage works independently of hi/lo. Get under it and give it s good clean and grease and jack wheel to check

Same story here, kolibri is nice enough but I changed for a treemotion and wouldn't change back!

It's sad times when an arborist of such quality is without work!

i would go for a 110 200tdi, parts are cheap, super easy to do any job you want, uprated rear axel to cope with heavier towing.... 200tdi is a bullet proof tractor engine just dont expect to go doing 90mph unless its freewheeling down a big hill with your digger behind you

bushes and brakepads treat as consumables and disc convert the handbrake as the standard ones are pants!

live to earn another day is my moto! if you dont feel 100% happy then you are more likley to make a mistake which is fine felling a field oak but 80 ft pines and powerlines i think it is better to err on the side of caution and listen to your gut.

If the company expect you to work with tecniques like that dont doubt your abilitys doubt the company!

defenderbits.co.uk but it depends on what your looking for really

Wow! thanks everyone for your input its very helpfull.

I will be in contact with land registery on monday to try and get to the bottom of it and fore warned is fore armed so the more info i can get the better!

The reason im trying not to get the insures involved because it was only valued at 1k and it will come up as a claim on my insurence and put up my primums so i would rather not go that route unless its a last resort.

I think i will also go and get a copy of the report on monday so i can see exactly what was recomended and also pop in and see the new tree officer to see if he can offer any information on the whole thing.

Thanks again for all your help i will update monday evening with my new findings

looks like armillaria mellea to me, and it loves damp conditions and ash!

 

I wont say any more.

anyidea how long it would have taken to get to this stage ? im asuming it would take more than 24 months to rot out a set of roots that size? but my asumption is based on very little fungal knowledge so please correct me if im wrong and thank you for the quick response!

Hi guys, I've got a few questions but first i will explain what happened.......

I parked my campervan outside my house and a 60ft ash decided to give way and flaten it like a pancake and take all the power lines with it

The ash is just outside my neigbours back garden and he claims its not his ( no suprises there!) and no one else knows who the land belongs to. The reason the tree fell although in high winds is due to a river running right next to it undermining the bank and a huge amount of fungi all around the base which has clearly affected the roots and their ability to hold up the tree.

My questions are

1. any idea what i need to approach land registery with to find out who owns the land?

2. can anyone confidently identify the fungi? ( i will try and post the photos now) and what its affects are and how long it has taken to get to its current stage.

3. my neigbour said he has had a tree report done by the previous tree officer and it had no recomendations for any work and the tree is healthy. It clearly is not so what are the implacations of his report.

thanks all i know its a big ask but im in need of some arb talk back up on this one

I use a silky for ALL pruning jobs, a saw for takedowns... I'm not quicker with a silky than a saw BUT, the silky makes for a better job because i've not got extra weight on my harness and i find it easier and safer to get right out to the tips with a silky!

 

I even prefer to use secatuers, even on big reductions to get it looking even neater!

same here