Arghshh

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, I have boot dryers but I just tend to drop the boots in front of the stove and it works a treat, I know it's supposed to wreck the leather but I've never had my boots crack or go stiff or any untoward damage occur over the years. To be honest I should have worded by question better as they do dry over night fine in front of the stove so drying the boots isn't an issue, I'm just interested in which boots people get on with best for minimising s sweat build up, I know socks play a part and have tried merino, them 1000 mile things, pure wool, stupid nylon ' technical' socks which are especially ****, . The one thing that makes the biggest difference is the foot wear itself, not just with my boots but across all my footwear like trainers, shoes, walking boots. I've found insoles also help, haix insoles seem good at managing moisture as do brasher insoles, mammut are terrible as are nike variants...... Anyone found a boot especially good at moisture management?

Hello, I suffer with sweaty feet when theyre stuck in boots or any shoe tgat isnt decently breathable. Ive found my best combination are a pair of Haix Protector Pro with high cotton percentage sport sock and Dickies work socks over them, feet stay comfortable all day but the boots are wetted out and take a couple of days to dry unless sat in front of the fire to dry. Ive tried meindl airstreams and they dont work as well as the haix for keeping feet dry for me. Has anyone susceptible to moist footwear got any suggestions?

indeed

Anybody still contemplating this?

I think general consensus from lads I work with and local dealers is that newer saws have and will have more issues with carbs, running, power etc due to a need to meet Euro emissions etc, hence why 020's and so on are revered, and probably always will be. I'm waiting for superconductors and the like to make battery powered saws the future! I've a 020 that I bought second hand a couple of years ago and I've dropped it twice from about 15 ft and it's had daily use, often used as a ground saw (naughty) and it's still full of beans - albeit a bit weathered! I like the look of Echo's saws, Iit would be nice to read some meaningfull feedback. My only worry with anything that isn't a mainstream brand is parts and backup....mind having said that all Iv'e bought for my 020 are bars and chains. Hurrah!

Yea I'll do a climb with you Benny Boy! Teach me some tricks n that!

Cheers gents. I understand a blanking kit can be had from Husky dealers so will go that route methinks. Its a repair for a pal so trying to do it on the cheap.

Evening all, Ive got a 357xp with a scored piston. Its a 2002 model and the cylinder has a rubber pipe from the top/spark end where you would expect a decompression button to be that runs back into the cyclinder lower down. This is split so I assume this has caused the goosed pistion. Can anyone explain what this is and what i need to source to repair or replace the cylinder, i may be able to treat the aluminium tranfer on it but this hose thing looks like a bit of poor design and a mare to remove. Cheers Ash

I've got the cylinder pretty smooth now so I am going to go for a Meteor piston assembly. Ill see my local husky dealer to get one of those manifold clips and carb spring. Otherwise a used carb off fleabay.

357XP -Does it have either of the autodecompression or plastic boot clamp? Yea it's got the decompression valve, seems to be nice and clicky etc. It also has a plastic boot clamp which I will replace with something more sturdy before rebuilding. I have worked on the aluminum transfer in the cylinder and removed it, the actual cylinder bore is scored below the aluminum so I think it's goosed - I plan on buying a non OEM head and piston kit and testing a new piston in this old head to see what compression it produces as a learning tool then assemble the new stuff after before running. BG85 - Did you remove the circlip or is that missing also? It was missing Looks like someone tore it down and then decided it wasn't worth fixing? Almost definitely - Has part of it has chipped off near the lower right transfer in your picture? Yes it has, looked chipped/worn IMO you would be better off selling the blower and using the money toward the 357 - I agree! Thanks for the advice and parts lists and parts suppliers info, very handy stuff. Also thank you to Steve (Spud), also very helpful and excellent service with the 020 I purchased from him, a reliable seller indeed. I will update on progress. Feel free to comment on my plans! Ash

Also while I'm on I picked up a BG85 blower and it was leaking fuel from the head/crankcase interface due to a loose bolt. Opened it up and it looks like there should be a gasket between the crank and head which wasn't there and the piston is scored and missing a ring! Also there is rot on the crankshaft as pictured but I don't know if this will affect running as everything else is clean and play free in there? It draws fuel through fine and there is a spark etc from the magneto. The only other problem is a split fuel line and the fuel filter is past it's best I reckon. I've looked for a replacement head (as that is heavily scored as well) and piston and nobody sells them other than Stihl dealers for large sums of money. I've bodged the flywheel by snapping off the fins opposite the already missing fins just so I can get it running half decent first then probably replace the flywheel. This and the 357 are my first venture in fixing properly knackered machines so I'm keen to get them running again and don't mind putting a bit of money toward them as a learning process, I'm not wanting to sell them for a profit. I'd appreciate any tips anyone can offer in getting these machines back on their feet. Regards Ash