mikedrums69

Once a year, usually Xmas time. Or when there just hanging from all the sap and shit.

beal rope cleaner, soak in a tub. Then in the washing machine with no detergent to wash it off. Comes out smart like 👍 

Stick with it mon. 
I didn’t see any major benefit at first. In fact I went back to climbing solely on double rope for a while. Only to convert back after all my aches and pains came back. 
If anything the major benefit is on your body and energy levels after a climb.
Time wise. From setting lines to finishing I haven’t noticed a massive difference.

I like mine, dead comfy from the get go. But the tongue is massively over sized! I have to clip my trousers to my laces other wise ropes easily get caught up. 
 

Not sure if I’d get another pair 

3 hours ago, Tommy_B said:

Yes. You'll find that you probably just use a wire fid for everything if you have one though.

The marks on the fid are just the measurements without you having to do the calculations yourself

Brill. Cheers mon, thought I was right 🙄😂

I’m having a blonde moment and what I’m thinking ain’t sinking in. 
 

If I wanted to use a fid of say a 10mm rope I’d use a 10mm fid correct? 
 

Also I weren’t to use a fid I could simply X21 the rope diameter to give me the correct full fid measurement and divide by 3 to give me the short fid measurement? 
 

Anyone climbing on it? Where did you purchase it? I’m baffled as to why it isn’t available in the UK seeing as its EN 1891 rated!! Unless if it’s a shite rope of course, though I can’t see it being that. Yale ropes have always been spot on 

I have an arbortec rope bag, 50 litre I think. 
 

plenty of space for my everyday kit. 
I have another duffle bag where I keep my other bits. Waterproofs, spare cord, flip wire, chains, etc

Anyone used one? Notice any difference  using it over a stiff one?

Does anyone know who makes stein ropes, particularly there 11.7 ones? 
 

My guess would be Yale, which would be great. I’ve always been a big fan of Yale ropes and my current calamine is due to be replaced soon. So knowing Yale do stein ropes will broaden my options and keep my noodle in check 😕

Has anyone used them and can comment on there performance?

cheers

1 hour ago, Tommy_B said:

Piano wire. Cant remember the gauge. I've been using one of the Treeworker wire fids. The one I've got has lasted me at least 10 years and wasn't new when I got it. 

I was looking at one of them. I might just get one of them and be done with it

Hi guys. What wire is best for making your own fids? 
got some thin stuff from a garden store, great for small diameter stuff. but it’s too fiddly and bends like mad using a long piece 

Cheers,

Mike

10 minutes ago, Tommy_B said:

Hello Mike. How did you get on? Sorry I didn't reply earlier when I was tagged. I must have missed it for some reason. Fire away with any questions

Hiya Tommy. Its ok, no worries. To be honest I haven’t really tried any to be honest. Just spliced a few throwlines and other bits and bobs with Brummels. But that’s really it

I’m enjoying 10mm OP at 80cm tied as a knut on my Yale 11.7. I’m finding it buttery smooth 👌

5 minutes ago, Rich Rule said:

@mikedrums69
 

Just wondering how you would use the ring.

 

As the conversation was about using a quickie for top anchors.  If a ring had been used in that way for a top anchor which is retrievable you would have to pass the climbing end of the line through the ring.  25m tree and maybe another 15 metre if it is a wide crown and you might use a couple of redirects.

 

I wasn’t referring to advancing you anchor.  In the scenario of getting top anchor with a throw line but deciding to change to a canopy anchor.  I pull a bit of slack though, enough to tie a alpine butterfly and the use the quickie and it’s one.

 

How would ring be use in that scenario?

 

 

In that scenario then I suppose the quickie would be better than a ring. But there is the pinto tie in. 
Personally though I choose not to base tie and rarely do so. So I’ve never came across the situation I needed to swap

1 hour ago, Rich Rule said:

@mikedrums69
 

At least your honest about taking an age to pass 30-40 metres of rope through a ring.  
 

I get setting it from the floor but how would you do that if you were already aloft and wanted to change base tie to a top anchor?

When did I say I stand there feeding 30-40metre through a ring up the tree? If I need to advance my tie in. I’ll tie a running bowline from the ground and either clip in a small retrieval line or use the tail. Depending on the size of the tree. 
 

I’d rather use a ring to be honest

I like the idea of the quickie. But i couldn’t trust it enough. I was always in fear that it could roll over and the slic pin being pushed out. I did like it for trunk work but I couldn’t keep it in my kit bag just for that purpose.

Choke off with a running bowline using a ring and clip a second line on. Really easy to untie, advance then re-tie. Or instead of the second line use the tail of your line

Rope length and I suppose climbing in general is very personal to each and every one of us. For me I use a 40m and 20m. I can’t stand having  more rope than I need, it’s just a ‘tidy’ thing I have. Most of the work I do I’ll use a canopy tie so I’ll use whatever length best suits the job. If I need more of a working end, I’ll add the shorter rope onto the retrieval end and coil up any excess to not get in the way. 

Hello everyone,

I'm keen to learn how to splice my own ropes, friction cords, etc. I’ve done a few locking Brummells recently but only on my throwlines, accessory cords. Stuff which is not life support, which I followed some instructions from YouTube.

It’s my understanding that there’s different splices for different constructions of rope and that some ropes require some alterations? 
What’s peoples recommendations on what splices to try?

wheres the best instructions? 
I’m particularly keen on splicing OP for my hitches. Where would be best place to get a batch break tested before I started using them? 
cheers for the help. 
Mike

Stopped using the chin strap a while ago. Had a few occasions where it’s got caught up and pulled my head back. Not the greatest thing to happen when working on the tips of branches.

Cousin Black Widow, anybody use it single line? 
 

if spoken to a few boys who use it doubled, but I want to hear people views/experience on it srt? Particularly through the wrench?

I have some atrax, which is bloody lovely. But I am starting to find it abit thin for my liking. Anyone got experience from going from atrax to black widow? Any noticeable difference? 
 

Cheers, Mike

On 06/02/2021 at 19:26, ANK said:

People are also using a loosely tied VT with a hitch climber on a single line that moves with the user like a fall arrest device. But for it move up and down freely the knot has to be so loose it wouldn’t bite unless it was set anyway. So if a climber cut their primary line or had an anchor failure it wouldn’t provide any safety for them anyway. 

Depending on what rope/hitch combo. You can get it to catch and release with relative ease. 
But my knot of choice for some time now has been the knut for both my primary and back up line.

So here’s a solution to you woes. Just insert a dmm compact shackle. Increases the bend radius and if you wanna, thread another bridge to it. 
personally I don’t see a reason for camp to do anything. The gyro has many other possibilities/uses other than our bridges 

There widely available. Just search for them