liamjordan

ah man that sucks, really really do want a 460, wish i had the money for one!

i cant splice, but i still wanted one

vapormatic is about the best quality in my opinion, even when brushed on it leaves a really good finish, painted my landy winch bumper with a bush and you can hardly tell it wasnt sprayed

yeah well not sure about the 362, i have a 361 though and thats an awesome saw, we fall a fair bit of big stuff, and they do well with just an 18" bar

I read the book a long time ago and i think you wind it to the max mark and then back it off a full turn, it looks about the same as where i have mine.

 

Does anyone still use diesel to lube with ? we used to on the Stenner years ago, i'm using water and iv'e just got some new blades(Ripper 37s) and after a while crap builds up on the band slowing the cut right up untill i scrape it off, iv'e adjusted the fiber cleaner thing and its a lot better,just thought diesel might be better, or am i using too much or not enough water.

nah i wouldnt use diesel with a lumbermate, it'll perish the belts, we use diesel in the stenner, just plently of water, on wide cuts i have the water on flat out pretty much.

oh and i didnt really think those ripper 37's were as great as they say they are, was talking to a woodmizer guy at wilsons demo day and he said that woodmizer do a blade to fit the lumber mate and its supposed to be pretty good, might have to try it sometime

incredible saws, if i had the money i would have one straight away.

a contractor i've done some work with uses them one with an 18" bar and another with a 25" such a nice saw to use

It is daft that there isn't a more accurate scale for it. On the Woodmizer, there is a hydraulic pressure gauge, which is very accurate. However, if the tension is just a bit low, the blade wanders, if it's too high, you run the risk of snapping. That range from too low to too high is about a quarter turn of the tensioning handle.

but think of the price of a lumber mate compared to a woodmizer, if you think about it, a lumber mate could be classed as the next step up from a home made band saw, if you look at it that way the tensioning scale isnt that bad.

we never seem to have a problem with blades wondering, and we cut big bits of oak (too big for the machine reallt) the only time it wonders is through a big knot or if the blades nackered.

when putting a fresh blade on, i normally set the tension at about half, rev it up for a bit, then set it to the correct tension, whether this helps i dont know just a habbit i've got into, i just think it doesn't put unnecessary stress on the blade to begin with, kind of eases it into it.

yeah man its exactly where you have it, the first part of the "plunger" between max and min

im not bothered if they are or arent mods, i know i've got to pay what i have to pay and i would rather pay abit more to have the "mods" covered, so say if i do have an acciedent with the winch and all that on i am still insured because the insurance knows about them,

i just dont get how they can make up a figure to add to my premium and in the same letter ask me to detail exactly what modifications have been made that are not factory standard, i cant see how they can make up a price before they know exactly what has been altered

couple of benches i made last year by the river in our field

oh right well this is one of the pictures they received and all the "mods" on my landy dont change the performance

but that does make sense about the admin and paper work actually

i know its stupid, but i can see the logic behind it too, i had a head on crash with an car 2 years ago, and because of the winch the car was a right off, luckily my insurance never asked any questions

i just really dont get how they make a random figure up...

Alright guys,

Just renewed my insurance for next month and the company wanted some pictures of my land rover, so fair enough sent them off and I guessed from the beginning that they would ask about the modifications, but to be honest I dont mind having to pay a little extra knowing im totally covered then.

But this is what really annoyed me, I received a letter back asking about the modifications, they now want a detailed list of all the changes, thats fine im happy to do that, but the letter also said that the increased charge would be £101.04, i really cannot see how they can make a figure up like that before they know exactly what modifications are on there?

yeah man thats what i thought i dont intent to have a lot of weight on there, like i said just fencing rails and my ladders mostly i did think about attaching it to the chassis or cross member but i just made it with materials i had to hand (and to be honest im not too bothered about the cattle back, its pretty rough anyways)

yeah i'll just cut the ends of the bolts off, but i have been having thoughts of attaching some sign written pannels off those bolts, so they may be the right length

I bought this roof rack off a mate a year or two ago and have been meaning to put it on my landy, as we all know how limited the space in a 90 is .

This weekend I had a clear out of my workshop (you can actually walk in there now) so i thought to save some space I would fit it and get it out the way, plus it will come in very handy, only had it on a day and its already had a lot of fencing rails on

It wasnt as easy as just chucking it on the roof and clamping it down I had to fabricate two brackets that bolted onto the ifor williams style cattleback, but having said that they were pretty straight forward, made it as simple as possible, the brackets run right down and are supported pretty much on the tub of the truck cab, but to be honest i dont intent to have much weight on there, just fencing rails and my ladders . Just got to cut the bolts abit shorter and it'll be perfect (as far as my bodge standards go anyway)

Thanks for reading

Well following on from my thread yesturday about a http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/picture-forum/44617-poplar-dismantle.html i have been doing over the weekend, today was very interesting.

I was planning on finishing quickly this morning as i just had to cut the stump lower and finish tidying up, but nothing ever that simple is it.

As i dropped the stem yesturday (fell about 20ft in one) it landed on all the lumps i had rigged down, this was my plan so i could ring it up, but it knocked two of them down the bank and into the stream, i should have noticed how far they were in yesturday but i didnt, so today came to move them and realised there was about 3ft of the one submerged... we manged to pull and hand ball the smaller one out but we had to set all this up for the other.

Just made this up with bits and bobs i had with me, it worked really well and was a good expirence. I didnt actually winch it beacuse i didnt have the battery cables for the winch with me, so we had to just pull out the winch rope and reverse the landy.

Well now im back from scotland i some jobs on and been on a poplar dismantle this weekend. This is the biggest tree i've dismantled and it was an awkward one....

leaning over a steam into the neighbours garden, one branch probably went about 15ft into their garden, so a nice bit of rigging practise, was really fun rigging down the big lumps

Rained all day today, so got soaked... got to go back for abit tomorow to take the stump right down and have a tidy up

i've had a fair few uj's on my 1984 90, just recently did the front 2, try and grease them as often as possible, but from what experience i have had, they seem to be a very common part to go.

And by christ when theres that much play and the whole yoke smashes, it makes a hell of a bang, had that twice now...

Look for the draw maked smörjnippel as for tap and die you'll just have to look. Nice work though.

aha thanks for the info, but tbh not going to bother, also means finding a drill, drill bits... and the workshops here arent layed out nicely like the barony ones, it wouldnt be hard to grease without one, never been greased before anyway, so im sure it'll be fine

Paint's not a very good match ace:001_tt2:

 

 

 

Nice job

like i said before it was bloody hard finding eveything in these swedish workshops! it was only by luck that we stumbled across a tin of john deere green paint... probably very expensive but it looks damn fine now

cheers mate

You have been a busy boy this weekend.

aha yeah man, tis the best way!

Nicely done, but what about a grease nipple or are you going to take it apart to grease?

it did cross my mind at the beggining of the built, but it took us long enough to find some pipe the right diameter let alone a grease nipple, drill and tap... thats the trouble with using someone elses workshop, our biggest problem all weekend... finding stuff

cheers for the comments guys!

Stupid question but do they really make that much difference? well guess they do otherwise you wouldn't do it but can you feel a difference in the machine?

from what little expirence i have had using them, yeah they do, they seem to make the machine more stable, before we welded these on the spikes were really worn down, so only time will tell how it compares with these spikes. Give it a good test tomorow. They also dont make as much mess in the woods compared to just tyres.

EDIT: sorry man misread your question, thought you ment about the band tracks in general, i'll find out tomorow how much of a difference the spikes make

wish my welding looked that neat and tidy.

thanks man! me and the other lad over here with me are both keen welders, hes the MIG man, which i cannot do in the slightest, and im the stick man, which he ent to clever with. He tacked them all on in the right places with mig, then i powered on with the stick

Well along with welding spikes on band tracks all weekend, we had to do abit of a repair job. Was nice to do, bit of thinking involved just me and the other lad whos in sweden with us, we were told where the workshop was and to get on with it

This bowser is towed behind the machines and where the swivel towing eye sits it got bend and busted the other day while one of the guys was doing a tight reverse.

Made a new one out of various bits of scrap plate and some tube, seems a lot stronger than the original, we hope.

To make sure my stick welding held, got the forwarder and put a chain form the eye to the grab and gave it a good shake about

cheers guys! yeah i am loving it! its awesome.

Yeah they do seem a little slack but to be honest the tracks are pretty worn, a lot of wear in all the link pins and the old spikes have been worn pretty fairish!

Well im in sweden at the moment at a college for 3 weeks doing some machinery operation, but as its easter the college is shut for 4 days so me and the other lad are the only people hear, we got handed the keys to the workshop and a mazda pick up and had a productive weekend welding new spikes on a forwarders band tracks (along with making a new towing eye for a diesel bowser but thats another thread ). Just got in now after taking the second set of tracks to the wood and putting them on, got the other set to put on first thing in the morn, then give them a good test in the wood