Rowden the cowboy

Just thinking... How about a mobile incinerator for burning waste rather than chipping? Imagine, maintenance free,low on fuel, no need to dispose of chips, no need for a yard, no need for a tipping truck. Does anyone know of such a machine or will I have to make one? I'm envisaging something about the size of an agricultural grain trailer which can be fed manually or automatically: there will be no faffing about with stress feeds etc.. you could just chuck brash and whole rings of timber in there and dispose of it quickly. Is this possible? Does such a machine already exist? If not, then it was my idea first.

My stihl 070 pisses out fuel if its held upside down or nose to the ground. I know that the fuel cap leaks but there is another bad leak somewhere in the other side of the tank. How easy is it to replace the fuel tank altogether, or at least botch it up so it works?

£80 a day plus VAT for a roadtow TW here; ask Timberwolf - they have agents all over etc:001_smile:

Same price for a TUN190...

Neither need deposits either.

Where abouts are you based then?

thats about the going rate give or take a £5er

Thats what I thought. It works out more economical to burn 99% of the time for me cos adding an extra £115 on the job tends to make you uncompetitive with the sort of urban based work I do... Lots of small jobs that only take half a day. How about any contractors that want to make a quick buck hiring their machine out at weekends?

Im in the hampshire area and occasionally need a chipper for the day. the cheapest I have been quoted for a 6" timber wolf or a TP is £100+VAT plus £200 deposit. Anyone know any where cheaper? I work mostly round winchester, so a local hire to this area is preferable.

Not too fussed about payload so long as it stays within axle limits. Know any body builders in hampshire?

Does anyone know a company that does tipper conversions for Nissan navara D40 model? Mines a double cab and could benefit from one. I'm in the Hampshire area and dont really fancy travelling more than one county away. Any thoughts?

Nice work Rupe and some very nice pictures, still waiting for that invite to see the GRCS in action.

so is the grcs really worth the £1800 or whatever it costs? I always thought a port-a-wrap at £80 was extravagant! It would be interesting to see how much more efficient that extra gear made the job. How bout you do another beech TD and use natural crotch rigging and a bit of polyprop rope. we'll watch.. haha

And thats what they are - last option.

You try carrying a set of insulated ladders through several hundred meters of scrub....[/quote

 

 

 

Never have, and i dont want to appear precious and up my own arse over an area of the industry that I have no experience of.

maybe not, but then there's a reason that this is a skilled job for professionals. Spikes should only be the last option. The scenario I described was in the middle of a field 20 yards away from the road. The tree could easily have been climbed normally, or accessed with a cherrypicker so there was no excuse for using spikes on a mature oak that was otherwise healthy. What made me even more angry was that it was a student who had been sent up to do the climbing: what an example to set! Of course, on the scraggy specimens on railways spiking may be the safest and most efficient thing to do on trees which have little or no amenity value whatsoever, but in the scenario that I witnessed the tree was clearly visible from the road as a prominent feature in the field, with plenty of amenity value. In such a scenario the use of spikes was what I classify as unprofessional.

ladders?

I am writing in this forum to appeal to the professional instincts of its members as I only work in the urban side of arboriculture and do not do lines. However, I was horrified to see the other day to see a contractor for southern electric that shall remain anonymous sending its workers up trees that were not being removed with climbing irons. When my colleague asked why they were wearing spikes on a tree that was not being removed they informed him that if up to 50% of the canopy is being removed then they were permitted to climb with spikes as the damage was so great that a few spike marks would not go amiss. When my colleague pointed out that they were only removing one branch the argument then changed to "I have to cover up to eight trees in a day and this is the only way that I can do it"....

This attitude does not seem to be confined to this contractor either as a friend of mine informs me that these practices are also common with a well known AA registered contractor in the Southampton area!!

As a domestic worker I do understand that your work needs to be carried out at pace and that you are working to a schedule, but believe it or not we do also have to work quickly, and we manage to do it without using spikes on perfectly healthy trees. I don't want to sound precious about spiking trees:we all take short cuts in the workplace, but we all know we are not meant to spike healthy trees that are not being removed.

What I am basically driving at is that we are meant to care for trees, not willfully damage them from laziness or whatever other reason these contractors care to use to justify spiking, and this industry's reputation depends on us being professional and working as closely as we can to industry best practice, both on utilities and domestically. Any thoughts?....

Hilux is supreme

 

navara - pimp mobile

And the problem with this is??? I am really a pimp in a tree surgeons body. In all fairness the navara is awful offroad largely due to its low ground clearance and road biased tyres, but then most of my work is urban and the navara is mostly for show anyway. That said, I had a landrover before this that was truly terrifying to drive above 60mph and broke all the time, whilst my experience of l200s is that they are baffled by corners:god help anyone trying to negotiate a roundabout at speed in one. Then the hi-lux...They are almost as slow as landrovers! They are so gutless and weedy. Really i am right when I say that the navara is the best of a bad bunch although a hairdressers motor. I think the D40 is much improved over the old D22 that seemed to blow up after 60,000 and its only drawback is the stupid interior tie down system: why couldn't they have just given me rope hooks or tiedown rails like everyone else?

A guy who owns a garage at the end of my road, so he knows his cars, he had one and has had 4 clutches replaced in 6 months. He said it's the worst 4x4 he's ever had, and the ground clearance isn't the best.

Not my words his, just passing on some usefull info.

I think thats the D22. You want the newer D40: loads of poke and although crap off road, it goes like stink on road

Any ideas? Its the old Hi-lux vs L200 vs Navara debate. I'll open the debate and hopefully piss a few people off by saying that the navara is the most powerful, the best looking, the highest towing capacity and, most importantly, I have one. Anyone care to contradict me?

Does any one here have a Navara D40 and know where you can get tie down bars to secure loads on the load bed? my navara is sadly lacking in any rope hooks or anything to ratchet down timber and stuff like that so most of the load gets distributed over the road behind me as i drive away. really, a couple of bars welded to the body work paralell to the load bay on either side would do but it would be nice to make it look profesh and not like a pikey botch job. You can get them on the l200s .also, while im at it does anyone know what size tyres can be fitted to them without screwing up the castor angle and requiring tyre offset. i want to stick on BF all terrains, cos with the current tyres it is truly awful offroad.

Am looking for a stihl 090, preferably AV or gear drive. Contact me through this thread if you've got one for sale. cheers

Does anyone know where the event is being held this year? theres a rumour going round college that its not at Capel Manor any more and may be being held down here at Sparsholt. Can anyone confirm this?

Hi guys and merry christmas

I am looking for recomendations for a good saw for cutting around 40 cubic metres of firewood per year,i am looking to spend around £300.00,any sugestions?

I know you aren't meant to, but i like to use a stihl 020 for logs like that, fitted with a 16"bar. it means you've always got a spare hand free to steady the log, its nice and light and its got plenty of poke. does anyone else do this, or am i just living up to my name?

landrover discovery diesel 197000 miles full history til 179000

approx 16 ft x 6 ft trailer

off roader vitara brand new dumper tyres on 16 inch rims

 

 

trying to sell for a friend as on job lot £3600 ONO

IF he gets £3600 he ' ll put a set of new KUMHO 33X12.5 15 mtS in the deal on rims to fit suzuki

 

any questions either pm me

or call MICK direct on 07766876303

Is the trailer dropside? if so can you supply the sides with it. also, woulod you be prepared to sell the trailer on its own or does it have to come as a package?

I am looking for a used trailer rated to 3.5 ton to use for moving timber around and various other jobs. It will be towed either behind a landrover or my navara and i am based in the Winchester/Romsey area of Hampshire. Anyone got one they fancy flogging? I'm not looking to spend a lot of money

u1200 unimog with a tp 200 chipper.

narrower than a narrow thing, loads of gears so you can reverse up a mountain. No more snaking about with toe behind chippers. side tip, no more taking off the chipper.

if you think the chipbox is to small get a 1250.

Is it true what they say about unimogs: that they can be driven on a normal post 1997 license? I also heard a rumor that they can be run on red diesel, which would help as your unlikely to get above ten mpg.

I have recently acquired a stihl 070 with a 36" bar, and was wondering if its actually legal for me to use it in the work place, that is when working for myself. Obviously no employees could use it but it has no chain brake or anti vibe etc...

However, i've noticed that the oil tank has a manual pump on the side. does anyone know if the saw requires to be oil pumped manually, or is it a "top up" pump for use with larger bars like on the husky 3120?

In general, the saw is slow as hell at cutting but impossible to stall or jam: you can push it as hard as you like. let me know your thoughts anyone else who has one.

I'm new here so please forgive the possible lack of arb jargon since I am a forestry man! I'm spending some of the winter butressing and felling big Sitka / Hemlock / etc for the FC and in need of a saw for the purpose. I've always been a Stihl man and have been using my rock solid 036 thus far. However, my colleagues are using MS460s for the obvious reason. Looking at saws in this range I have of course considered the Husky 372XP, the Stihl MS441 and MS460. I am least likely to go for the Husky due to price and the two Stihls have frustrating comparitives i.e. they both weigh the same for 0.4hp difference, the 441 is newer technology, costs a little less etc etc etc. The 441s lower emissions actually appeal since an exhaust next to a butress all day tends to dictate ones immediate lungful! I once had an MS660 and have also thought about just getting that, running an 18" bar as I would on all of them (or 20"), and having loads of grunt for another kilo or so, bearing in mind I'm not lifting the saw much. However, I've recently been directed away from the established makes to the Makita DCS 7900/1 since on paper it is lighter and more powerful that 372/441/460. Not only that it costs a lot less too. Carrying a blue saw into the woods is possibly asking for ridicule but I've also heard that the Makita will outcut its immediate rivals. Any thoughts...? I've owned a Makita DCS9010 and it was so heavy I got rid. Thanks. J.

I have a Makita dcs7901 and run a 18" bar or a 28" bar on it depending on requirements. it is a fast cutting saw with a lot of grunt and is the only floor saw i need. it out cuts my mates 066 with a 28" bar on it and is easy to maintain. However, it is blue.

I tried to make sense of paolo bavaresco's extreme rigging i.e. using lag hooks to rig chogs down from the stem. Has any one here actually used them and was it more efficient than snatching overall? its just there's something about going up the stem with a cordless drill that sounds like a real arse ache. I would appreciate any comments from anyone who's used this technique. Cheers