softbankhawks

The wrench taking half of the load...where did you get this statistic?

I'm using Marlow LSK static 11mm, I tried it again today I adjusted the wrench as described in the instructions but it's still not running very smooth. There seems to be alot of friction on the hitch, The rope does seem very squashed through the wrench, or is it a weight thing as I'm no stick! perhaps I'm too heavy for the wrench?

Keep playing. Try a larger climbing line, re adjust the wrench, change your hitch etc etc.

Is someone using globe as a climbing line on this thread? Is globe dyneema cored?

If so I completey do not recommend it. The heat generated on descent would be enough to affect the core without noticeable wear on the cover.

In my experience the uni works well on static ropes like power static but for some reason the wrench with hitch is jumpy.

Semi static double braids are perfect with both....poison ivy, blaze, tachyon etc.

SRT redirecting is sooooo easy. On lapsed pollards it takes a slightly different approach though.

Being wary that stems on a lime may pop due to the compression and ridiculous climber induced stresses down the stems I found that using a 'brace' like redirect worked just lovely.

To set your redirect...judge how much sideways movement your over extended stem may take and tie an alpine butterfly with guesstimated amount of slack in the rope. Clip butterfly into redirect point and continue climb.

When you begin to pull over second stem the first one will act as anchor without compressing.

Matthew's back-up can be removed at the appropriate moment, the back-up hitch will be slack and he can un-clip without any hassle, I think anyway.

After trying the id for a while I believe it is a great fail safe piece of kit but wasn't designed for a trunk anchor/belay application and so is the wrong choice for a working SRT line and belongs, for us, in a RADS bag.

Can I throw up a question? Taking Matthew's trunk anchor as an example, if we judge the sitting end of the srt line to be long enough to get the climber to the floor, begin lowering, but then realise this isnt the case, how do we safely tie an additional line and add friction to that line?

Ha Yes, much to much time )

Pic 5, the trunk wraps, this is where the load releasing hitch works well. Simply remove LRH and lower, of course you can easily add more line in the system as knots do not pass through any hardware. Pic 4 is much like yours Paul, the LRH serves no working function, it enables a clean connection to the aluminium ring is all.

Someone mentioned the possibility of getting into difficulties while lowering a climber. Can we safely re-attach the trunk anchor in this scenario? Are we able to lift the climber at all?

Trunk anchor's should not become a rescue safety blanket.

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This trunk anchor evolved because I started trekking and climbing in steep terrain and wanted a lighter weight system but definately not trunk wraps cause I needed every spare foot of climbing line for climbing. The cow hitch with aluminium ring serves this purpose and additional 6mm hitch cord is incase I come up short on a monster trunk. This was for lone rec climbing and had to pass, as Dave puts it, the 'flop test'.

I like the load releasing hitch with alu ring on the trunk wraps too.

I think that the three variations could accomodate a variety of needs.

Peter from arbtalk suggested splicing directly onto a friction device.

I think it is important to take away the karabiner from a trunk anchor in case of cross loading.

Paul, your gate is rubbing on the trunk!

It is a cautionary idea but I use a small aluminium ring (28mm) when tieing off the trunk anchor. I will post pictures tomorrow.

I have added a 6m length of small diameter hitch cord. This means that as well as using a cow hitch like deerman we can tie off using a klemheist and load releasing hitch on to the aluminium ring. The 6m hitch can be applied to a climbing line that has been trunk wrapped enabling ease of second line attachment for a long 'trunk belay' lower.

There is a good reason not to add a hitch above a friction device. Firstly, the soft and hard locked figure eight will not come undone. Secondly, the aerial rescue aware groundsman should have a friction hitch to hand if one need be applied and thirdly, a climber will be inverted if unconcious and there is a possibility of neck injuries if the groundsman can not walk out from the trunk to manhandle said climber.

Drew didnt have enough line for his tree and so accomodated this to his trunk anchor. Very good thinking.

Thanks. 6mm ocean vectran with 8 sounds amazing.

Peter that sounds incredibly efficient. How would I get around the rope on rope aspect though. I'm not implying an issue with cow or timber hitches....just wondering is all.

Drew, yes, the hub is great although I dont own one yet and wonder if I can work my idea out without one.

I have loads of time on my hands Pedroski and wonder if my idea is attainable, I thought that I'd give it a go. Your suggestions are great and valid it's just that they fail to fullfill my criteria!

So far I like the multisling. Maybe a load releasing hitch could go from multisling to a ring or 8 on main line. Dont know how I would hardlock the climbing line though?

Well...

There are a multitude I know and perhaps the most simple is to generate enough friction by wrapping and wrapping without tieing off at all but I want to really streamline an idea and I need some help.

I want a trunk anchor that is formed with a seperate piece of rope, does not have rope on rope parts and is karabiner-less. Lightweight is best of course.

It is not for contract climbing and so set up time is not an issue.

Thanks

Always have a method of cutting the rope with in arms reach of any lowering device IMO

What do you mean?

Bob, that sounds interesting but I can't get my head around the explanation, could you draw a picture or something please?

John, congrats on the purchase, you will find a mass of new rigging ideas forming as you get to know the grcs better.*

Now that you have your bucket and visor plate, your rigging line has been re-directed into the top fairlead and have chosen a suitable rigging point and have a game plan you need to master getting the rope out of the jaw's and into the pig's tail. It is where I see things go wrong the most.*

When lowering wood over aprox. 400 kilo's I try to use the double whip tackle technique, not for the added power in the lift but more for the ease of getting the rope out of the jaw's, away from the winch fairlead and into the pig's tail.*

I have watched with horror as ropes have been snagged into the fairlead, hockled around the drum and hands being pulled into the drum, all of which is not very nice and could leave you messing around for any amount of time sorting stuff right.*

The jaw's are strong but any amount of factors lead me to tie of the rope around the additional steel hook bits if I don't need to lower straight away.

This weekend the ratchet part of mine is at a fitters getting a steel tube welded along the bottom as I bent it when over tensioning on a funky shaped birch. I guess the visor helps stop this, I dunno for sure though because I haven't got one. Also getting lost rubber bits replaced.

I had an interesting day with mine yesterday and will upload a video as soon as it gets to me. *

Hope this helps my friend.*

Paul

I have had the same clutch for three years.

 

I don't work in the rain which could be a major factor. A dirty gritty rope will rip a clutch to bits in no time.

 

Also if I do a long decent I take some of the load off the clutch by holding the tail of the rope

A slight diviation but aluminium does wear quick. I sold my unicender cause am so bold over by the (steel) rope wrench. Buy a rope wrench arbogrunt. You can use the lock jack with it...tom used it today with his and said "ohhhhhhhhh, nice, but 'ow do I go up!"

With practice you will be able to flick your cam ON and OFF. Off is easy, On makes you feel like a jedi! The weak spring aides this.

Pop a snap gate below the cam if it's falling out too much.

The spring is designed loose, it helps the rope run through when only a little weight to play with below.

Like deerman say's pass the strap upwards against the back of the cam body and lock it tight with the horizontal strap. Using this method you will be able to extend for spikes and pull it back shorter for boots.

I dont know why petzl would let such an obvious flaw pass through unchanged, but it's such a simple fix that we can't complain too much!

]

Yes Steve, I can see if I can get two more, one for you and Paul?

L e g e n d.

Got a pin on order, thanks to the TH.

What's the TH? I want one of those...

Best wishes for the move Paul, dead Thuja today, SRT with the wrench, I must be losing it:)

Hee Hee !

Thanks Carl !

whereabouts in Japan mate? are you meeting with John G over there?

He will put me in touch with people...gonna start in Nagoya but I quite fancy Hokkaido.

It's irrelavent Ben cause its SRT.

Will it be 3 or 5 or 7 years until SRT is valid here...who knows?

Who cares, I'm off to Japan!

I've been messin with art gadgets below the wrench, seems like the lock jack may be a winner. I'll report back!

That sounds funny but I can't watch it...

Is anyone still following this thread?!

I am starting to get my settings dialled in, I wont go into details as it's all too specific for weight and climbing styles.

I went for a play after work and a friend had a go on the Wrench ( a tree surgeon ). This guy has never climbed srt and he just flew around the tree. Sold!

The Wrench is intuitive when scrabbling about a crown.

I love your style.