3dogs

never with a tree or saw, several times in the lorry, twice in a 360!!!

The last time we had to have one repaired was 6 years ago when a tractor driver that was taking logs away took one out, to repair it was £50.

We got in touch with bt and they sent an engineer out to make the cut line safe:lol:

Then he went away to wait for the call to repair:lol:

This countrys gone MAD:confused1:

I've bounced stuff off but never broken one:thumbup:

one day you will be eligible for our elite club:thumbup:

oh your so in. it makes me feel better:thumbup1:

get someone to hold the throttle in whilst you pull it over. Short sharp pulls and lots of em:thumbup:

Confession time. And I hang my head in shame, yes I have gone and cut through a bt line. Moments lack of concentration whilst removing a large conifer with two lines running through it and oops!!!!

So come on who else is in the club:thumbup:

so what is wrong with Oregon 91VXL 044E =12" or 050E = 14" ?

 

Fast cutting holds its edge well easy to sharpen, what has the full chisel got to offer ? and who is the manufacturer ?

 

Try Oregon 21,22 BPX chain in .325 or Oregon 73,75 DP chain on 3/8 and see just how much more you can cut before sharpening on your ground saws.

 

A full chisel chain cuts well out of the box and is great in softwoods, it will handle hardwood but dulls off faster and requires more maintenance of the working corner.

 

Les

multicut:thumbup:

Is that it !!!! You could have at least got the chain, tried it, and then posted, now im in suspense waiting for the next episode. Go bang on his door and threaten to kill his coy carp unless you get that chain now:thumbup:

this looks like the start of slipped hinge you just determine the amount or speed of twist by the amount of hinge removed as the tree starts to fall.

bending a tree on its hinge is fine provided you understand the principle. to try and taper a hinge whilst the tree is sat is asking for trouble. the tree needs to be in motion as the hinge is slipped (tapered/triangled) for this technique to work as it causes the stem to twist.

However this is not an exact science and considerable attention to the crown is important if there's too much weight to one side of the crown you cant expect it to twist in the opposite direction.

i have for sale my 2004 nissan cabstar 34.10 dropside pickup

 

2004

39650miles

tax and mot

full service history

£3500 ono no vat

 

good conditon and runs brilliant with loads of power:thumbup:

 

Call dave on 07745691068

I have for sale my 2004 nissan cabstar 34.10 dropside pickup

2004

39650miles

Tax and mot

Full service history

£3500 ono no vat

Good conditon and runs brilliant with loads of power:thumbup:

Call Dave on 07745691068

your always going to get more leverage the lower you fell, angled hinges are OK but sometimes your better just offsetting the felling cut and maintaining a parallel hinge to compensate for the weight of the tree. So i would have used a basic fell with an offset sink but i suppose it also depends on the size of the drop zone.

you could use the basic fell or if you feel that the tree will bounce or kick back of the bow then the dog tooth which would allow you to sever the stem at arms length and keep a safe distance:thumbup1:

As i said in my first post the tree is in generally good health odd bits or dead wood and a limb that was lost due to wind shear about two years ago probably due to the removal of 6 mature sycamores in the neighbouring garden. Since then I've been asked twice to go back and look at the tree usually after we've had high winds, the home owners are generally concerned about the limb failing. I did on the last visit install a line and climbed the limb and as you would expect i found the usual that you would expect but nothing that I would be unduly worried about and i passed my thoughts onto the client, there are signs of rippling due to compression but that would be expected due to its growth.

In view of having evidence to support an application for removal as i clearly said there isn't any this is where my dilemma lies. As for supporting my customers with regards to the limb failing i can understand there concerns they have already lost one limb and to be honest if i where to edge my bets this will be the next to fail and when it does the damage will be considerable.

I will simply leave the decision of what works should be carried out to the T.O.

Sorry no more pics, no ground movement. And that's the problem this limb has fail written all over it but without the signs to back up that view.

There are also no good targets to reduce too without the tree looking odd and creating large wounds so i am somewhat at a dilemma.

I have applied for total removal and a remedial prune of the remaining canopy but i will be very interested to see what the tree officer comes back with.

I'm not a fan of bracing it tends just to prolong the inevitable, better to remove and replace imo.

you really should'nt let those new braces take over your thinking:biggrin:Tart:001_tt2:

£200 would have been home for lunch:lol:

Would'nt have even needed to call for assistance.

I have just applied for consent to work on a large Horse chestnut that requires the usual remedial work, however there is a considerably large limb that my client would like removing, for two reasons 1 - to benefit from the extra light gained and, 2 - as they are generally concerned that this limb could fail.

There is sign of compression within the limb but generally the tree is in good condition. Any thoughts anyone.

The limb is the one reaching out to the left.

i d offer to climb it for ya, but it ll probably snap just like fridays job:thumbup:

when...your ready for bed at 8 O clock and one glass of wine makes you feel merry.

:lol:

 

I was eaning Mashall actually.

could'nt resist that one:laugh1:

Have you read through all 4 threads i just linked?

i miss read all the signals. definatly in for a shag, apparently not:thumbdown:

just realised not squinting actually closing one eye:thumbup: I ll have another can and see if that improves things:laugh1: