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frans

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Posts posted by frans

  1. Arrrrrgggghhhh G-wagen!! Horrendously over-priced spares on those, just cos they carry the Merc badge!! Best avoided unless you have plenty £££ to throw away!!

     

    I sure like the body type. Nothing like it here and very suited for extended back country.

     

    Parts would be very over priced for me in the states. Also, if something should go wrong in some remote area, I would not be able to get parts.

    This is why I am thinking of just getting the chassis, no motor, no running gear.

    I can put my own engine, axles, electrical, etc.

    Now that I have seen this chassis, I am getting more and more interested...

  2. why not just use an f150 4x4?

    Is there something particular you want to build?

     

    I really like the body type of the older defender 110.

     

    It is very suited to what I do.

     

    Problem is, they are not available in the states.

     

     

    The jeep chassis I have is really not what I am looking for.

     

    The f150 4x4 is actually junk IMO. AND the body style I am looking for is non-existent.

     

    Here is another pic. of the 110. A true back country vehicle.

     

    Do you have another suggestion ED? I am open to ideas...

    defender110.jpg.9ee096e98794454c947f52c708b4e753.jpg

  3. here is my idea of the perfect Death Valley & Baja vehicle. The roll cage is excessive in my opinion. It is a small percentage of folks who even come close to needing stuff like that.

     

    Maybe, just maybe I could find one as a chassis only, no engine, no running gear, and be able to ship it over to the states as 'parts' and thus avoid alot of motor vehicle non sense....

     

    Dont know how to do that. The steering on the 'wrong' side may cause me problems also with installing a different engine......

    landrover110.jpg.64cf8f2f1c6d4bd85c96d4ee4a220771.jpg

  4. Why the 5 cyl 300 engine frans? you may find it a little gutless. was it just convenient? and what vehicle is it going in? I would be more tempted to use the OM602 turbo unit.

     

    I like the 300 mercedes engine. Robust and does what it is supposed to.

    I have several of these engines as a friend is phasing out his mercedes junk yard.

     

    They have plenty of power, as long as the gearing is right. The turbo makes up for any lagging.

     

    The engine and tranny will go into an old Toyota 4 door land cruiser. Wrecked, but just tons of body damage. Almost fixed up now.

    Putting Chevy running gear on it w/lockers.

     

    The ford tranny is still undecided. Might use something different like a chevy just haven't decided.

    I need to learn more about optimum power curves on each tranny and what will work best for the Mercedes.

    All this madness would not even be necessary if the U.S. had the set ups that your Euros have :(

     

    Mad Matt! Any pictures of your engine yet?

  5. Jim, al the 2.25's and 2.5's had lucas CAV pumps, the tdi's went bosch. Thats why its hard to run the older engines on SVO / WVO.

     

    Frans, what engine / vehicle / tranny are you trying to mate up? I have a 14000# merc truck with a 4 cyl turbo engine and 5 speed manual transmission.

     

    I dont know the Lucas CAV pumps but the Bosch is an in-line pump that is pretty robust. So the Bosch seems to handle the thicker veggi oil better than say, the International/ford rotary fuel injection pumps.

    The Volkswagon also uses a rotary pump.

     

    Ed, mating up a 1986 Mercedes 300 5 cylinder engine to a 4x4 Ford 5 speed tranny.

     

     

    We just dont have the smaller diesel engines with manuel trannys here in the states. Mercedes has one, but it is a 4 speed tranny and really winds out at our freeway speeds. And it is not 4x4.

  6. MadMatt, I sure would like to see some pictures of your engine.

     

    I do alot of wrenching, and lately have started a project to marry a standard 5 speed tranny with the mercedes 5 cylinder diesel (1987 year model).

     

    Manuel trans. with this engine is unheard of in the states.

    Mercedes makes one but it is on the 4 cylinder non turbo model so it's a dog.

     

    Thanks MMatt!

  7. The hobbs can take wood better, though the GRCS is a better cranker.

     

    And a porty is better than trunck wraps.

     

    :)

     

    I tottally disagree. Sorry Bodean. I dont think you have thought this through. I dont for one minute think you have properly explored the full uses of the fixed bollard or the ratcheting capstan. You are mainly a climber, and your ground crew is often not as qualified as you. So you are not the one primarly using these devices.

     

    When I dropped a volvo station wagon from a tree and shock loaded the new Hobbs and also the GRCS, the GRCS had minor damage to the tune of $160.00 dollars using the winch capstan not the fixed bollard which is the 'weaker' component of the GRCS. The Hobbs bent the main arbor which distroyed the entire unit. The only way to fix the hobbs would be to cut it apart with a plasma torch and re-manufactur it.

     

    The 'Volvo Drop Test' video is available for all to buy from:

    http://www.atreestory.com/videos5.php

     

    There is alot of misinformation regarding not only which unit is 'better' but also how to properly use these devices.

     

    Both devices require training to use properly.

    Yes, you can figure out how to use them, but maximum loads, proper wrap configuration, etc. etc. are essential for proper use.

     

    I am not a grcs salesman, nor do I get any compensation for talking up one unit over the other.

    I learned on the Hobbs back in the 1980s and when the GRCS came out, I bought my first one. My thinking was, I wanted to truly test both units to distruction and decide for myself which unit is 'stronger'.

     

    I dont in anyway represent either maker of these units, and my opinions are my own.

     

    Hobbs= boat anchor

    GRCS= evolutionary leap in technology

     

    :hello:

  8. WD is merely a lubricant. What is needed is a penetrant. I usually use a product called PB Blaster.

     

    PB-Blaster.jpg

     

    I stopped using WD40 when I discovered that they put a shorter straw into the can.

    I discovered this when I kept running out of pressure in the can but still had lots of liquid sloshing around in it.

  9. Over the years I have noticed some things about 'our' industry:

     

    Their are many many different certification programs to be had in order to be professionally involved in the field of Arboriculture.

    Each different organization will reward the student with their own special certification, degree, license, ect.

    However, their is very little or no 'reciprocity' between each one.

     

    For example, the ISA certified arborist certification has no meaning to an accedited university. Should a person want to earn a degree say in Urban Forestry, being an isa cert. arborist will not help with your prerequisites.

     

    Its like this, ED Thorman has made the point of making a substantial investment in machinery, always buy something which is easy to service. Dont buy a machine will parts that are unique to that machine only. Buy equipment with 'off the shelf' components. That way you will never have trouble getting the thing fixed when it breaks down. Also it is cheaper.

     

    In my opinion, it is the same way with education. Education is one of the most important investments a person can make in their professional lives.

     

    So, invest in an education which will reward you.

    Ask yourself, is this certificate worth anything at all to the job which I anticipate applying for in the future?

  10. Nice forum here. Wish you all the best over there in Brit. land! I like to see more forums with like minded tree people.

    Besides ya'll take up allotta space on the other forums :D.

     

    Nice going here, I wish every success.

     

    Frans

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