munkymadman

2 hours ago, john meehan said:

 

Put a block on your piece you are rigging as well, this increases the rope in the system drastically and creates a 2-1 system, works really good especially on dodgy trees as it reduces shock loads.

Climbing arborist on YouTube has a good video about it.

 

Didn’t someone just post that vid at the beginning of the thread

It could have had a defect in it too. It wasn’t me personally that day. The ring idea would be great but you’d  need a massive sling if you wanted to fit in a half hitch. Just butt tying a bit of beech is risky

I’ve used two bollards a fair bit for doing large limbs or double rigging. But on a spar it would have to be identical otherwise it would favour one rope over the other. I like the M rig snatching idea. But I reckon your right that maybe a ring would be better than a pulley. I guess I’m considering those times when it gets low and fat without much room to let it run. 

Afraid I haven’t got the luxury of choosing which ropes the company buys. Hope your well too Carl. I’ve just arrived home

I saw one of reg’s videos with two pulleys two ropes and the seperate bollards for snatching. A 16mm line was snapped in the past. So could this be avoided by doubling up. Rope on rope is a no no, but if they’re running at the same speed can they both go off the same bollard. I’m assuming that would be a disaster. We have a couple of grcs’s and a number of flying capstans. Any configuration ideas that doesn’t involve buying a double bollard?

some people have had problems in getting through to me via my irish number (i just contract here) so if you want to talk to the organ grinder rather than the monkey please ring niels on +491719315981

Looking for experienced climbers eg. competent at quality reductions, technical felling, fine pruning. For the winter season October to March. Truck license a bonus. Company is fluent in English. Possibility for accomodation depending on timing. Rate dependent on ability. 2 week trial. Please PM if interested

15th of march I've been told for delivery and its $200.

do they arrive on christmas day!!!

Jack's a smart guy and there is nothing wrong with his setup. I like your choice of the double 8 knot better as it is the more stable. The problem I have with the double loop knots, is they work great when the two loops are under load, but when not they can be plucked or distorted. It is not really a problem, just something that bugs me so I go a different way.

 

Also, to be honest, I rarely choke tie as 99% of the time I find a base tie to be a better option.

 

David

any link on how to tie that, been looking for that knot for awhile

 

Right at the beginning I show I to through a redirect when I don't really want to lanyard into and put my entire weight on the limb I'm redirecting through. This trick has been very usefull.

thats quite clever, not sure why everyone skipped past it. not that I'm always worried about weighting the limb i want to redirect off, but i don't like that precarious period while off your line. I'm assuming thats just using your lanyard . my only problem is that it means another thing to have on my harness. you could probably tie a blakes or something similar with just your lanyard. even though the biner might make that difficult

Hi Munky on those busy trees I tend to base anchor, then move up with slings and biners advancing the base anchor. When i get to the top do a midline bowline with a bight or circus bowline and a pinto anchor. The I get the guys on the ground to untie the base anchor, pull the tail up and over the fork to become the retrieval side of my top tie and it comes up and out of the slings. Take them out on the way down working the other side of the tree to the one I came up on. retrieve to top tie with the tail. Either that or just do it all off a base anchor. If I use a base anchor for the whole tree I work one side on the way up get to the top and strop in, get the lads to untie the base anchor and re tie it with my tail. Harder if you use a wrench because you need to retie your system. Uni is king

im afraid i haven't got the luxury of a uni, i spent a long time considering it. i stuck to the lj wrench combo in the end. doesn't take that long to take off but i try to avoid it. i avoid top ties unless doing removals or passing back over the top. those mid line anchors or good but then you also have to make sure the end is always with you if you stray off the intended course.

im a hard man to please. i'll give this cambium saver idea a go, when i get the right tree and get back to you

You would be proud of me mate... been deadwooding a number of Oaks since I got back. RW'd the lot apart from 2. Just takes a bit of time on the job to master.

im welling up with pride mate

id agree with all your points, a straight line below your srt set up is a lot more important than it is with ddrt, so doing tricks with the end of your line can upset the fluidity of the climb. i did however pull my set up through a fork today. it was reasonably close, so worth the risk. i wouldn't use a retrievable up the tree(as everyone seems to agree on), as you can take obscure routes with srt or just easily go back up

where it is slow i find is the process of raising your basal anchor TIP. on those straight up busy trees. rather than trying to push all your gear through the fork on the final point. i more often than not just whack a sling in and go back up later, but thats inefficient thats where a ground retrievable would be handy. i guess that would be considered more similar to a cambium saver than a redirect

thanks craig, seen that one before looks far too involved to seem worth while, used to use the similar system with Ddrt. but the fact that srt is easier for going up id probably never bother.

BenR,i was discussing your style with the moving of rope around the tree the other day. used to do the same with Ddrt the only benefit with that style was that you could pull it back to you if it didn't fit through the fork. do you ever get it stuck? what happens if you do get it stuck?

id like to see some ideas for retrievable redirects as its not really been covered to my knowledge. id like to see what you use and when would you use it? i was toying with an idea of making one and my best solution was a crab and micro pulley on a short double spliced length of cord and a crab the other side. I've always just used natural redirects, or a sling for spots you return to. some of those smaller up down climbs where you just want to raise your anchor point without threading all your gear through the tree would be handy. any thoughts would be interesting

whats a rope knight

correct me if I'm wrong, SRT climbing exerts more force than Ddrt by 50% on the anchor point. the initial perception was as high as 100% more, if we were to just hang statically, but that would then make that rule superfluous because we always have to climb. to conclude as theres 60 - 70% less forces on the TIP with base anchor in a fall situation. that means the top point would have a higher SWL. also if the force is compression rather than a levered force. that would have to make SRT with a base anchor substantially safer. well from an ultimate fail perspective

cougar blue seems to be the best I've climbed on yet, never tried the kern though

the bases of the derailing of this thread is addressed by the development of the rope runner. it is the complete package, the uniformity and consistency of mechanical devices eliminates the 'newbie' and 'safety regulatory' factor. i eventually think that as this concept evolves hitches will be phased out in SRTWP. I've order a RR and hoping that it bridges the gap between the advantages and disadvantages between rw lj combo and hitch rw combo. a hybridised version. it'll most probably be tweaked and remanufactured

pre ordered mine, getting here christmas time i believe. they're quite reasonable i thought $160.

i did do a night job with them once, and i thought 'ahhh finally vaguely handy'

yes explorer arb that is the same product, but i dont believe its a question of its strength. in where its faults lie. its an aptly strong piece of kit. it just will pop off if ascended at strange angles or where you reach the point of rope divide at your anchor, hence why its design was revised and it was banned to climb on without back up. had mine 9 years now still bomb proof. still non the wiser to why it glows in the dark

but mr squirrel its not life support, just a climbing aid. these ascenders are old, they've popped off a number of times due to their lack of safety measures, this however makes them simpler to take on and off. the wrench/lj catches me every time, not that it happens much if at all anymore

Thanks mr squirrel. He was probably referring to the earlier kong double ascenders that popped out due to lack of safety features. I still use the same ones just not for life support. I noticed the ascenders are riveted together. Could be taken apart one section removed then reriveted. Is that straight forward enough?

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