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1d10t

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Everything posted by 1d10t

  1. So I checked out the wires and as you can see in the picture, the edge of the top fin is actually damaged due to spark plug cable chafing on it. The cable itself was chafed almost (but not quite) down to the wire. I suppose it could be causing a misfire when hot and pressed to the cylinder? I have put some heat resistant insulator tape on it and will see if it fixes the issue. Is it safe to cut a part of the top fin off to prevent future chafing or will it trigger overheating problems? The rest of the cable is chaffed almost to the wire in other places too (clips that hold it), but there is only plastic around elsewhere.
  2. I only checked for scoring on exhaust side though. Also, the saw now starts great every time even right after shutoff. Cold start is like 3 pulls with choke on, then 1 pull most of the time. Right after shutoff issue it's always 1 pull so I assume it's not flooding? If there was scoring I assume it also wouldn't start at all when hot.
  3. I vac tested the saw with the intake boot off because I didnt have a way to block off strato and main ports well enough, but the test seemed fine except the gasket. I also replaced impulse and return lines along with the primer bulb (had issues with fuel too). The cylinder had no scoring yesterday, since the saw was run hard for couple hours for at least 3 days since I swapped the piston, I'd assume there'd be scoring if there was an air leak present. I'll try to just disconnect the off switch somehow and run it like that for a bit and see if it has shutoff issues again.
  4. For the carb cleaner, thats a no go, I already had air leak problems and replaced head gasket since then, doesn't seem to be anymore leaks. From what is happening (saw will just cut out instantly, as if it was turned off rather than flooded/leaned out and will also instantly start back if starter rope is pulled - no difficulty at all) it actually does seem like an electrical issue. This has actually been happening for some years or so I'm told (not my saw) but only when saw is hot. Also, how sensitive should the kill switch be? It's one of those push down to kill, up and out for choke, up and out and then back to normal position for high idle switches. Right now the switch needs only be touched and thee saw will shutoff. Could be that when hot, the metals will touch without pressing the switch?
  5. Mark 1, about 10 yrs old, 10 and a half I think.
  6. Would it be instant with bad seals? When it's hot and I tilt it, it's literally like I hit the off switch, the saw just dies in less than half a second. Must be a pretty bad leak then.
  7. Hello This has me stumped, I have a husqvarna 545 that starts and runs great (starts 1 pull everytime after warm). However, after getting hot (like after cutting down and trimming a pine tree, basically running hard for at least 5 minutes) it will start to instantly die when tilted forward or sometimes even when tilted to either side. It happens instantly when tilted and it still restarts 1 pull instantly afterwards. It happens with fuel and oil tanks full, so it's not the fuel pickup line (and the line is not pinched in the tank, I checked). I tried spraying at various points with a brake cleaner after warming it up at home (but it wasn't hot), at the gasket, side transfer ports, intake boot and even in oil tank, there was no hesitation. Any ideas on what could be the cause?

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