1d10t
-
Posts
27 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by 1d10t
-
I think it's the short one, the one closer to the purge valve on carb, not sure right now. If you're thinking switched lines on purge bulb, thats not it because I've done it before and I couldn't even press the bulb easily. It just worked for 6 months and then it suddenly stopped pulling fuel like before. Then it suddenly starts working again.
-
Bulb is fine, I checked the old one when the same thing happened, it was fine but I bought a new one anyway. Now the same thing happened with the new one too. Apart from the bulb I replaced all the lines too (except the S shaped one from carb to purge bulb, since I couldn't find it anywhere, but it seems fine anyway).
-
I guess I wasn't clear, there is no fuel coming out, it's just that it wasn't pulling any fuel to the purge bulb. That's happened before. I did a vac test on the purge valve on the carb since I assumed that it has to hold vacuum (another carb from solo 639 that I have DOES hold it). But if as you say it shouldn't, then I guess this is fine? I'll reassemble everything and see if purge bulb works now.
-
so the only possible culprints could (probably) be inlet needle stuck (replaced that one today) non return valve in main jet faulty Since everything else is new (at most 3 months old and i doubt it would have the same problem as the old parts immediately). When it happened before and purge bulb would not pull fuel, I could fix it by hooking up a vac tester directly to purge valve and making some vacuum. Once fuel got through, it would work for a while. Is it possible to check the non return valve in the main jet? Or would my only option be replacing the carb? As for inlet needle, is that the one that's attached to the spring and was part of the carb kit? Since I did replace that one today, along with everything in the kit (3 gaskets, 2 diaphragms, needle, spring and screen).
-
it is less than 0.5 bar of vacuum. I just tested a different (older carb) with a purge bulb and it holds vacuum perfectly if I squeeze the intake fuel line. Also since it seems to be worse than it was, even with the rebuild, it certainly seems something is wrong, I just don't know what else I can replace, there is nothing I can see in the diagram that could be leaking and I can fix without replacing the whole carb.
-
Hello Posted elsewhere, but posting here as well. Still figuring out different stuff that's wrong with my 545. Recently the purge bulb completely stopped working. I removed the carb and tried to vacuum test the purge nozzle like this: https://imgur.com/a/m8VWT7f it was not holding vacuum at all. This is the video from autumn, was also leaking but not as bad: https://imgur.com/a/CSziAIF I bought the oem carb rebuild kit, replaced all 3 gaskets (top and bottom side, autotune unit gasket), both diaphragms, needle, needle lever and screen. It is better now but still leaking fast (worse than the second video, loses all vacuum in about 2 seconds). It seems to be sucking air through main nozzle: https://imgur.com/a/w42csDl Any ideas what exactly could be leaking? I found some info about an oring on the accelrator pump going bad, but 545 seems to not have accelrator pump at all. Pressure test is fine, no leakage at all (and wasn't any before carb rebuild).
-
A bit of an update on this: First a bit of a backstory: the saw was pinched between tractor and a handle got bent when fairly new. The handle was replaced and it seems whoever did it, used the wrong screw (too long). It punched through the case (either when being installed or sometime later) and was rubbing on ignition coil as in the picture. Coil air gap was also tiny (barely enough for normal a4 paper to fit), possibly the coil was being pushed away by the screw and closer to flywheel. I have now fixed the gap to 0.3 mm and used a shorter screw on this side of the handle and we'll see what happens.
-
I would but i'm not from UK sadly probably would cost more than that in postage EDIT: would be great for the case as well since brake handle mount is broken 🥲
-
Thanks, will disassemble again. Ground was attached last time I checked. I'm still somewhat hoping it's not the coil as supposedly it should be hard to start too afterwards, but it's one pull start everytime after dying.
-
Worth looking into tank vent too? I did additionally have issues with fuel pumping which wasn't solved by new fuel lines and purge bulb. Basically sometimes the purge bulb would just stop working and just pump air.
-
Regarding spark plug: the cylinder in the picture (original cylinder) had it's spark plug thread stripped. Bought a new cylinder and the same shutoff issue was still present, but it eventually got a piston ring caught in the rough port edges (twice). Rethreaded the original cylinder for a bigger spark plug after, which is the one in the picture. Had to also grind down the nut on the spark plug to make it possible to tighten. Since the issue was happening with two cylinders and three different plugs, i can PROBABLY eliminate a spark plug problem. I'll check out the cables first, then I'll disconnect the kill switch and tape over connectors. I won't be changing the coil as it's too expensive.
-
Or I could try to check carb wires too if I can find them, but those shouldn't be damaged since they're hidden.
-
Starts back instantly yes. If it's coil or carb, I can't do anything either, both are way too expensive to buy for this saw, no point spending 200 euros on something that might or might not fix the issue. If it was a non autotune saw, I could just swap over a different coil to test, but here... If I understand it right, it needs to be fitted and coded by the dealer, I can't even find any replacement coil online.
-
Had some more trees to cut today and the problem reappeared when the saw was decently hot. Didn't even need to turn it to the side, it just cuts out instantly sometimes (for example when putting it into wood). Won't be putting anymore money into it, it will just be a secondary saw for occasional limbing. Almost looks like compression is so bad that it just doesn't have enough when hot. When measured (though my compression tester is a budget one) it was only 85 psi, compared to new 365 xt's 120 psi (assuming tester shows like 20-30 psi lower than it should).
-
I was only able to cut about three 50cm stumps and some smaller (10-15cm) logs before dark, but it seems to be working fine now, there is no stalling at all and I was rotating it every possible way every minute or so. Unless there really is an oil tank leak and it doesn't happen with full tank. Will see once I have more (and bigger) wood to cut, but then I'll probably be using a 365 for that.
-
I will recheck the cylinder again to see if there are any markings, but I THINK it was mahle. The ground wire is secured, I checked it when vac testing about 2 weeks ago. The switch is assembled fine too and works as intended, choke, high idle and removes high idle when throttle is pressed. I'll talk to my dad about the cylinder again, he assured me that only piston was changed at the dealer, the only other cylinder was the amazon one which I now have in the basement and was fitted couple months ago (and got a piston ring caught in one of the very nicely cast ports...). As for the spark plug, it should be mostly the same, no? it is the same length as the original. it was either that or a new oem cylinder which is worth more than the saw currently and the stalling issue will remain since it was the same on both cylinders. The saw actually runs and starts fine (1 pull from cold today), the only issue is stalling whewn hot. As I said, I'll see if spark plug insulation helped when I can get into the woods again.
-
As for the fuel lines, the one most damaged was fuel return line which I think was rubbing on throttle cable, that could've been due to improper installation or maybe it slipped out of clips some day. But the spark plug wire was definitely damaged by being squished between top cover and cylinder. I cut a part of the top fin off now so it shouldn't rub anymore.
-
I think cylinder is Mahle which should be the original OEM part. If different parts were used, then it was funny dealer business, because they were the only ones to touch the saw except my dad and I. Was told that piston was replaced in first 2 weeks after new, but warranty was declined due to bad fuel apparently (which I still don't believe was the cause). Originally I thought that whole cylinder was replaced. Everything else should be the original except the stuff I mentioned (filters, lines). Haven't had the chance to try out the saw after the fix yet as we have some bad weather now, hoping for a test run in a week or so. I was hoping to take a look at coil-carb wires too, but I can't find out where they go, they're not in the same place as mk2 and they're not between fuel tank and crankcase, seems they are INSIDE the crankcase??? I read somewhere that they were prone to grounding on the crankcase and in future revisions were modified with extra insulation. Since the saw was bought in early 2014, I think it's one of the first batches made so probably had some issues. But i'm not sure when they were first made.
-
It is kinda weird though, spark plug cable is chafed in at least 5 points, both old fuel lines were also chafed almost through in several places... The saw is old but it's not like it was used through the year every year... I know it was used for about 3 months in 2014 (several hours every day) but otherwise it's on average of 1-2 months a year and not every day of those either. Certainly not enough to explain all this damage? Maybe these molded lines are just too soft.
-
As far as I know that's the original cylinder. It was replaced this year because the original had stripped spark plug thread, but the replacement turned out to be kinda crappy and so we just rethreaded this one and put a bigger spark plug in. Otherwise everything except fuel lines, gas and air filter, primer bulb, piston and gasket is original. As for top damage, I don't think there is anything else that could've caused it other than spark plug cable. The cover basically squishes the cable to the cylinder. The shutoff issue was happening for couple years now.
-
So I checked out the wires and as you can see in the picture, the edge of the top fin is actually damaged due to spark plug cable chafing on it. The cable itself was chafed almost (but not quite) down to the wire. I suppose it could be causing a misfire when hot and pressed to the cylinder? I have put some heat resistant insulator tape on it and will see if it fixes the issue. Is it safe to cut a part of the top fin off to prevent future chafing or will it trigger overheating problems? The rest of the cable is chaffed almost to the wire in other places too (clips that hold it), but there is only plastic around elsewhere.
-
I only checked for scoring on exhaust side though. Also, the saw now starts great every time even right after shutoff. Cold start is like 3 pulls with choke on, then 1 pull most of the time. Right after shutoff issue it's always 1 pull so I assume it's not flooding? If there was scoring I assume it also wouldn't start at all when hot.
-
I vac tested the saw with the intake boot off because I didnt have a way to block off strato and main ports well enough, but the test seemed fine except the gasket. I also replaced impulse and return lines along with the primer bulb (had issues with fuel too). The cylinder had no scoring yesterday, since the saw was run hard for couple hours for at least 3 days since I swapped the piston, I'd assume there'd be scoring if there was an air leak present. I'll try to just disconnect the off switch somehow and run it like that for a bit and see if it has shutoff issues again.
-
For the carb cleaner, thats a no go, I already had air leak problems and replaced head gasket since then, doesn't seem to be anymore leaks. From what is happening (saw will just cut out instantly, as if it was turned off rather than flooded/leaned out and will also instantly start back if starter rope is pulled - no difficulty at all) it actually does seem like an electrical issue. This has actually been happening for some years or so I'm told (not my saw) but only when saw is hot. Also, how sensitive should the kill switch be? It's one of those push down to kill, up and out for choke, up and out and then back to normal position for high idle switches. Right now the switch needs only be touched and thee saw will shutoff. Could be that when hot, the metals will touch without pressing the switch?
-
Mark 1, about 10 yrs old, 10 and a half I think.
