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Stihl RSC chains


wayne 4098
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Depends how much you have to take off the tooth. Best to get a raker depth gauge. You will also find that your chain may judder in hardwood, but will fly and cut like a dream in softwood. Most pro cutters have a separate chain for both hardwood and softwood...

Some depth gauges have two depths, one for hardwood, one for softwood. The softwood setting lets you take slightly more off each raker. As well as taking the raker down, it's important to keep the correct angle, to both lessen vibration & reduce the likelihood of kickback. It's easier if the raker has a witness mark but the damn things are so small and often smeared with oily residue, that sometimes they are of little help in dim lighting.

Edited by TGB
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Some depth gauges have two depths, one for hardwood, one for softwood. ..... .

 

That really is the case with all depth gauges, although the specs for the chain doesn't tell it.

 

This has nothing to do with the ramps that are pictured in the first post here - that is just the way Stihl currently is making "green" ("safety") chain.

 

The design is copied from an excellent Oregon chain that is not "green" - but Stihl made both the rakers and the ramps much larger, to make it "green".

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  • 2 weeks later...
That really is the case with all depth gauges, although the specs for the chain doesn't tell it. ....

 

.... .

 

That came out a bit wrong, as I may have misread what I responded to.

 

What I meant is that the rakers need different settings for different conditions. The best ones so far are the Husky plate guides, that has different settings for "soft" and "hard" wood.

 

Also progressive ones (the Husky plate guides and the Carlton FOP) compensates for the cutters getting shorter after some sharpenings, and the distance from the top of the raker to the cutting edge longer. It is about the "angle of attack", that the cutters work at.

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