Any ideas why new 372xp would seize up ?

[bob]

was it a heated handled version

[Gareth Smith]

was it a heated handled version

 

Yes bob but Carb heater disconnected like you said

[bob]

Yes bob but Carb heater disconnected like you said

 

ahh

nice one

what did the dealers say about that

[Gareth Smith]

ahh

nice one

what did the dealers say about that

 

They ageed it was a good idea and said there's really no need for it in this country anyway

[rotax81]

dry bearings when assembled isnt really a problem, within the first couple of turns there is sufficient oil. 2 strokes need very little.

if they replaced the crank then it was either the big end that failed or a main bearing siezed, ruining the crank. so it was either the big end pressed too tight on assembly, the tolerance on the conrod was not right or what i have seen in the past, the oilway to the main bearing was obstructed.

i have rebuilt many 2 strokes in the past, some were revving over 21,000rpm and were ok as long as the tolerances were spot on and the right oil was used.

 

i never tried one after dropping it out of a tree though

[Gareth Smith]

dry bearings when assembled isnt really a problem, within the first couple of turns there is sufficient oil. 2 strokes need very little.

if they replaced the crank then it was either the big end that failed or a main bearing siezed, ruining the crank. so it was either the big end pressed too tight on assembly, the tolerance on the conrod was not right or what i have seen in the past, the oilway to the main bearing was obstructed.

i have rebuilt many 2 strokes in the past, some were revving over 21,000rpm and were ok as long as the tolerances were spot on and the right oil was used.

 

i never tried one after dropping it out of a tree though

 

Hahahaha no seriously I never dropped it out of tree, I had only used it a few times. They did mention about possibly being pressed too tightly when built, I'll find out more when I go pick it up and let you know exactly what they found. Thanks again for your advice you really sound like you know your saw inside and out ! Unlike me

[rotax81]

Thanks again for your advice you really sound like you know your saw inside and out ! Unlike me

 

i have only rebuilt about 4 or 5 saws, it was kart engines (some are a very similar setup to saws) and motocross engines.. all the same old dirty 2 stroke at the end of the day though

[blazer]

i have only rebuilt about 4 or 5 saws, it was kart engines (some are a very similar setup to saws) and motocross engines.. all the same old dirty 2 stroke at the end of the day though

 

Much the same here but my bikes were a bit older, from old BSA, Bultaco & a Suzuki T500 + loadsa 4-stroke bikes - so saw motors are fairly easy to sort. Now it's a Suzuki Eigar Quad and my sons Yamaha XT660R. The upsetting part is I paid less for the T500 in 1970 than I did for a MS 260 10 yrs ago.

 

Back to the saw, I would say it was faulty before you started it up, if dry or to much pressure on the bearings, the bearings would fail very quickly. Maybe an idea to get the dealer to run it before buying and check your fuel mix.

[blazer]

*** I have got it****

 

Just thinking it over again, I can't see how with a modern production system how such a basic fault could happen:confused1:

 

The saw must have been run by the dealer but filled with 'neat' fuel by mistake, cans not labled ( if left 1/2 filled with neat fuel, on topping up this would reduce the mix). This would put the damage onto bearing and cylinder very quickly, even if only run for a short while. Then when you got home and filled the saw on the correct mix, the damage was already there, so failed later in the day or very soon. With modern motors being made to much finer tolerances than yrs ago any damage would avalanche.

 

This ties up with other guys and different products failing but all with common symptoms. no wonder the makers claim it's not possible for there products to fail:thumbup1: