Stihl 011av

[Bertie3]

Hi been trying today.

check the coil, primary 1.2 ohms, secondary 8.2k ohms. Thisis in spec.

if the saw fires which is rare. It runs for about 1 second then dies think I’ve managed that three times.

Normally it just floods after lots of pulling. It just does not want to fire up there’s not even a hint of life.

ive tried fuel in the carburettor nothing.

in my possession, it’s never been running to assess anything else.

That is all the information I can give.

thank again.

 

[spudulike]

If you are trying to start it on full choke, pulling it over many times, it will flood.

Have you tried pulling it over whilst holding the throttle wide open?

It isn't recommended as "normal" as it is dangerous but it may get a bit of life out of it.

If the saw is flooded, remove the plug, turn the ignition off, point the plug hole downwards and pull the saw over a few times briskly until no spatters of fuel come out. Heat the plug up with a plumbers torch or kitchen job, if the wife is out, replace and use the starting method above but no choke.

If a saw just pops after around 6 pulls on choke, even if it doesn't pop, turn the choke off as it will flood.

See if this works. If you have a seriously big air leak, the saw wouldn't flood. If it was a small air leak, it would still run.

What are your H&L screws set to? Is the idle screw holding the throttle valve open a bit and is the starting position holding the throttle open around 1/4 open?

[Bertie3]

Solved

thanks for all the reply’s.

finally got the oil seals from China. It took ages to come and they were smooth on the outside not ribbed and I got an original one for the smaller oil seal under the flywheel.

However, it was all one big rabbit hole. The real problem was at the HT lead had a crack in it or/and it was where the spark plug connector went in to the HT lead.

So even though the resistance on the coil tested correctly, with the multimeter.
Then I tested the ht lead separately for continuity and wiggle it about lost continuity.

So i over looked a spark issue because it was getting really good spark when you held it against the cylinder, but in actual fact, it wasn’t.

i made a special hook puller out of a windscreen wiper metal blade. Placed it between the rubber seal and the crankshaft lift it up vertically.

I used the crankshaft with a nut on as the Fulcrum on the flywheel side and players to grab hold of the metal bar/puller, I put the clutch back on to do that side.
that worked really well.

I’ll include some pics, but I didn’t take pictures of actually doing it, but hopefully it’ll help.

i did use the above link to get the seals I’ll include a picture of those as well. I also found a French company that did one that I think would work as well. It’s more like the original. I’ll include that as well.

Thanks https://www.123bearing.co.uk/seals/seal/rotary-shaft-seal/bb-13x21x4-nbr?srsltid=AfmBOorR4JlNLruWUl1CvJ18d0AewzWn19Bd1fu8Q7a_hUhclJzAKKS-