Right clutch for Stihl 050

[spudulike]

The clearance between drum and clutch looks pretty tight to me, especially on the laft hand side. The trouble with the clutch being aftermarket, you cant be sure it isn't just badly made or the clutch springs are poor - They usually are pretty iffy at the best!

Your carrier (Centre boss) arms have a large gap between them and the clutch shoe. Looking at the IPL, it would seem that the arm usually extends to the shoe like the attached pic. Have you got the old clutch to compare?

 

Does the clutch drum spin freely as it is without the machine running. Have you tried putting the bar on, starting it up and resting the chain on wood and blipping the throttle so you get a bit of friction action between the clutch drum and clutch? By doing this, you may take off any flash on the castings.

 

I have just measured the clutch to drum clearance on my 181SE Husqvarna, it measures 1.2 - 1.3mm so you should expect very similar.

 

If you are clever, you may be able to see where the shoes locate to stop on the carrier and lightly grind the surface so the shoes sit deeper making the clutch a smaller diameter.

 

I would measure the gap you have and then decide the best course of action. You really need 1 - 1.5mm for it to work well. If this is OK, the clutch springs are best swapped out with OEM ones or just get the OEM clutch.

 

 

[RomuloTDI]

Hi friend.

Yes, it also seems to me that there is little space between the clutch and the clutch drum.

The old clutch does not keep it (mistake on my part to have thrown it away).

I have tried to cut wood with the machine like this but the chain keeps moving, by the way, the machine has almost no strength, I have tried to carburete it and it does not let me, I cannot adjust it, the carburetor is new too, if I remove the chain and the chain guide the machine raises rpm very well but with it it costs more.

All the best.

 

 

Edited February 18, 2022 by RomuloTDI

[RomuloTDI]

Today I return to work for five days and I won't have much time, but when I have my rest days again I'll try to make a video so you can see how the machine works and that it doesn't have much power, I don't know why, and so you can see as does the chain that does not stop when the machine is idling.

And yes, when the machine is off I can perfectly move the chain without the drum rubbing against the clutch.

[spudulike]

If I had it, I would measure the clearance between the clutch and drum....a cheap set of metric feeler gauges will do this and look for 1mm+.

I sort of suspect that the clutch springs are letting the shoes out too early and allowing the shoes to contact the clutch drum. The springs should keep the shoes in until 3000 - 3500 rpm before allowing them to drive the chain. Typically this issue is always down to worn, slack or broken clutch springs but can't be sure on yours until you confirm the clearance - someone with an 050 or 051 could confirm this clearance but would would need consideration for worn parts.

The rest of the running issues - the saw should have enormous wrist breaking compression - if you measure it, expect 170psi+. Fuel systems are usually the next biggest culprit on old machines and then the HT system. Just a case of working through the machine bit by bit.

 

 

[spudulike]

This may help, it states the clutch should be 86mm in dia. 

 

050-051-075-076 Service Manual.pdf

[RomuloTDI]

1 hour ago, spudulike said:

If I had it, I would measure the clearance between the clutch and drum....a cheap set of metric feeler gauges will do this and look for 1mm+.

I sort of suspect that the clutch springs are letting the shoes out too early and allowing the shoes to contact the clutch drum. The springs should keep the shoes in until 3000 - 3500 rpm before allowing them to drive the chain. Typically this issue is always down to worn, slack or broken clutch springs but can't be sure on yours until you confirm the clearance - someone with an 050 or 051 could confirm this clearance but would would need consideration for worn parts.

The rest of the running issues - the saw should have enormous wrist breaking compression - if you measure it, expect 170psi+. Fuel systems are usually the next biggest culprit on old machines and then the HT system. Just a case of working through the machine bit by bit.

 

 

Hello.

The machine has everything new, engine equipment, carburetor, ignition coil, crankshaft oil seals, clutch... that's why I'm very surprised by what happens to me, that it doesn't work well, I imagine it's something small that it overlooks me and I don't realize it and that's why everything doesn't work correctly, it's a machine that was quite damaged and I decided to repair it and put everything new in it, little by little I was repairing it, maybe I'll finally wait and take it to the service technician, I'll think about it calmly to see what I decide, without rushing, I know it's a good machine and I'll assess if it's worth it to keep putting money on it.

Thank you very much guys, it's nice with people like you who help people we don't know.

[RomuloTDI]

1 hour ago, spudulike said:

This may help, it states the clutch should be 86mm in dia. 

 

050-051-075-076 Service Manual.pdf 13.93 MB · 1 download

86mm diameter is more than the diameter of the clutch drum, that would not be possible.