frin2

Did that, had some takers and happy to let them have what they wanted but the wood is damp, so a promising start died a death.

Spot on that's exactly the situation, the previous owner of the property had a wooded area that he cleared and stacked them in a clearer area of the garden. Apparently he got into some trouble for the felling and I believe was to be prosecuted then he died of a stoke, only 57, I purchased the property at auction. Most of the logs are 4ft-5ft long, I spoke to the local tip, happy to take them but to long, cut them and no vans. Since then I've spoken to them again, they will turn a blind eye to a van and I'll give them a bung but very sniffy.

I am cleaning logs as I go, hopeful its only 2-3-4 layers of logs then down to cleaner wood but but it is a lot of logs and dirt and earth is imbedded. BIB, as a green beginner any arborist would have been proud of me, kitted out, face mask, gloves, decent shoes even an apron, full works, lumber jack life for me, pulled the trigger, nothing, check power source, nothing, straight out of the box and I'd purchased a dud but my grandpappy use to say check the fuse, changed that, nothing, there was no manual in the box, looked online, chain guard, once I figured that and in position I was away, that how newbie I am.

Bolt, thanks for all your replies. A rethink, you are right, I will stick to what I have, as fitted, the Hawksmore isn't bad, its doing the job but chains are dulling quick due to log condition.

The reply was a kick in the pants and was going to shoot back with it took me a while to master riding a bike. You're right, hand sharpening is best and a skill to learn, as a newbie I am being lazy, I just want to get the job done and put the saw away. It would appear even the best among you don't always get sharpening right so wondering what chance I have but doing would improve things but it's time. I'm dulling chains quick so hand sharpening maybe my only option.

Thanks for the reply. A long post but three question. I can't find reference to "double guard " SDS or what they mean as to why the bar can't be reversed but it says so in the specs'. It is only the first couple of layers of logs that are rotten, the rest being ok but damp and I require the space as a thick, large concrete base is to be laid on the spot and the builders want to start in August. Hand sharpening is the best method, just don't have the time. My questions still remain, Hawksmore 2200w 16in complete with 57 link chain and bar. Is it worth buying a reversible bar that will accept 56 links for my brand/model chainsaw if available, 56 link chains are cheaper, if so what bar should I buy, the specs' says existing bar is SDS and not reversible, should I stick to what I have? There is available a chainsaw sharpener that takes the effort out if new to chain sharpening. It's a plastic cover that fits over the nose of the bar and has a whetstone in it, you turn the saw on for a few seconds and it sharpens chain. Are these universal or specific to the make/type of chain used.?

I am new to this forum and a newbie to things chainsaw related never owning a chain saw before. Due to an industrial accident I have some weakness in a wrist so a little wary of anything to powerful, it's a dive into the unknown but purchased a budget electric chainsaw the Hawksmore 2200w 16in complete with chain and bar instead of opting for a petrol version. I have a number of longer logs to deal with, stacked by the previous owner of my property, some are rotting, a lot of moss and earth on some and damp, all require cutting, my local dump is happy to accept them as garden waste once cut, a number of them are about 14 in diameter. I figured about 1200 cuts in all so a budget chainsaw would do the job, then sell or keep afterwards. A few days ago I got round to unboxing the chainsaw, it was easy to set up, the bar is an Oregon 16in with “ Double Guard “ printed on one side, the specs say it's SDS and not reversable, the chain is 57 links, chain pitch: 3/8", chain gauge: 0.050" . I purchased extra chains as I don't know how to sharpen, same specs' as original, Tallox brand After a couple of newbie false starts, I've started cutting, so far, so good, amazed how little vibration there is for a cheap chainsaw and comfortable to use., it's doing the job but have some questions. The bar is getting clogged so I'm unclogging every so often, the original chain dulled quickly after 8 cuts or so, I'm on a second and that's quickly going the same way. I'm thinking this is going to get costly with replacement chains and so few cuts. My questions, On the Oregon bar, “ double guard “, in operation what does this mean? Is it worth buying a reversible bar that will accept 56 links for my brand/model chainsaw if available, 56 link chains are cheaper, if so what bar should I buy, the specs' says existing bar is SDS and not reversible, should I stick to what I have? There is available a chainsaw sharpener that takes the effort out if new to chain sharpening. It's a plastic cover that fits over the nose of the bar and has a whetstone in it, you turn the saw on for a few seconds and it sharpens chain. Are these universal or specific to the make/type of chain used.? It's a lazy approach but I have a lot of cuts to do and dirty wood, anything that will give me some extra life/cuts out of a chain quickly.