Jack0

I’m not very up on all this …but yes I think so , pic of inside attached

Sorry to sound stupid , but how and where do you check the manifold plate ? Sorry only just seen this …had so many replies so that answers my previous question two minutes ago ….sorry 😊

Now that is an interesting reply thank you !! Tell me which stove did you buy to replace ?

It’s not that I “ seem to know better “ at all , otherwise I wouldn’t be on here asking for advice . I just fail to understand how replacing a perfectly good liner is going to help with the problem . That’s all . Plus I haven’t got unlimited funds to pay thousands of pounds to have this work doing which would mean scaffolding . Perhaps you are right re the 5kw , it just seems to me that I have quite a large room and therefore concerned that a bigger stove might heat that area .

I agree the register plate is VERY badly fitted , so a lot of heat must be escaping …however still doesn’t get over the stove not getting up to temp despite me loading it full of good and expensive woood !! I only light the stove in the evening since it’s in the sitting room , so I think buying cast iron stove in hindsight wasn’t a good move , I’d be better suited to a steel stove that heats up quicker ( but doesn’t retain heat for so long ) this type of stove is more for a run all day type of use . I’m using it for secondary heating and a good old cheery glow !

No I had it fitted , the chimney was lined with 904l liner . Yes it’s a large draughty room 26 x 13 ft with original draughty sash windows and high ish ceilings . There is twin wall coming out of the roof because the chimney stack was removed before we bought the house . Tall 3 storey house .

Not quite as simple as just dropping a new liner in !! It would require scaffolding at a cost of more than £1000 …for what ? The liner is absolutely fine !! And a small 4/5 kw stove in a 26 ft long by 13 ft room with 9ft ceilings , a big triple bay window with original sash windows …no insulation at all ….is that really going to heat the room ?

Probably you have a point there , but then that begs the question should any log burner be put in an alcove ? …or are you saying that Jotul is specifically designed not to ? Yes I have a dampener fitted , because the draw from the chimney was so strong .

I think you’ve hit the nail on the head …the installation is a frig !!! But being a 3 story town house it would mean a scaffolding job . I’ve asked various fitters and nobody can come up with a conclusive answer as to why it’s crap !! But I know this fitter had somewhat of a bad reputation . All I want to know is can it be rectified without me having to spend silly money . I can chuck as much wood as I can physically fit in that stove and it never gets up to full temperature . I think the thermometer is accurate , though see somebody’s point on here it shouldn’t be on the inspection hole I’ll try and move it but it’s a short length of pipe .

Hmmm well possibly , but the stove joust doesn’t get up to temperature so whilst it might help , I’m just not convinced .

Thanks for all the replies . I’m new to this and didn’t realise I actually had any , so I’m sorry for the lack of response . I think it’s a combination of things . Bad fitting from the stove fitter initially , probably the stove should not be in an alcove . I also think cast iron not for me because I’m an evening sat by the stove and go to bed person ….not running it all day and night as a form of heat for the house . I think I’d be better off with steel . Apparently the clean burn version which is what I have has air inlets at the back of the stove which you can’t control . This combined with excessive draught is why I’m burning lots of fuel with little heat . Jotul have recommended that I bring it further out into the room , but this isn’t possible for me , so it looks like I’ll have to sell it and try another wood burner , or just give up on the log burner idea and keep it as a feature !!

I can’t get it up to those temperatures even if I put smokeless coal in it , I’ve burnt all sorts of wood over the years , so it can’t all be bad wood . I think there is definitely a problem with the installation , but not really sure what I can do about that , to pull all the liner out would be pointless , I had it inspected with a camera last week and it’s fine . I think the joints onto the stove might not be right , plus the register plate has gaps .

It doesn’t have firebricks inside , just cast iron plates .

Hello , I’ve got a Jotul 3 and despite running well with plenty of draw , no smoke from chimney it just doesn’t heat the room . it produces a very disappointing amount of heat ( well seasoned wood etc ) I’ve had two installers come and look and one said that the stove was too big for the fireplace opening and doesn’t have enough room to breathe ….but considering the fire is performing so well I’m not sure I understand that ? Even if you put your hand around the burner when it’s going full pelt it doesn’t seem to really radiate heat ….you shouldn’t be able to get you hand into the opening once going ? I think I’m going to have to admit defeat and sell it . Does anybody know what they sell for ? I’ve seen them on EBay for £800 but not sure if that’s realistic ? It’s the enamelled multi fuel version and in good condition . A friend has just had a cheap £650 stove fitted which she says is amazing . I don’t want to spend a huge amount of money …I can’t justify it at the moment , plus it’s not my only form if heating , just adds ambience to the room so only have it on at night . I know you usually get what you pay for , but my expensive well made Jotul isn’t working so think I’ll go down the cheaper route ?? 2CB8326F-0031-49F6-B0BD-4840277564BF.MOV