AnthonyK

Thanks, chimney was swept (and is clear) just a fortnight ago, draw was decent. Problem may be the flue is just not warming so the smoke is finding its way out of the top vent? Will try some suggestions and see how they go, once my better half allows to me to light it up again! 🙄

Wow - thanks all. Both vents were open when the white smoke was billowing out of the top vents. When I shut the bottom vents the smoke actually stopped coming out of the top vents, but the fire slowed and there was still some leakage from the top right of the WB where I don't think the seal is fully intact. Yes, we have a main CO detector in the room just in front of the WB. Amazed it didn't go off, though we did air the room quickly. There were no large logs on the pile of kindling, just kindling, firelighters and a bit of paper. I'm trying to get a repair company to come and check the WB seals are intact. Will also light kindling top down. How would you have the vents when lighting first; top open bottom closed? Or top closed bottom open? Reluctant to have both open as that was the scenario before. May also get my baffle trimmed another inch, have attached a picture of the gap; thoughts? Thank you all so much for the ongoing information.

Video might work below: IMG_3815.MOV

MORE HELP NEEDED. Well... having enjoyed one successful fire, last night the stove started pumping out think white smoke from the top vent when I let the kindling wood / paper / firelighter. Equally worrying was a small amount coming from the join where the top part sits on the body, pictures attached. When I closed the bottom vent the smoke stopped coming out from the top vent, normal? Am I just not very good at this? Is my new baffle plate too close to the top vent? I have left about an inch gap for the smoke to be drawn over and up the flue. Enough? I can have this cut further. Do I need the WB repaired as the leak is also from the top joint? I'm not in a position to replace this but it does appear to be a challenge, any advice welcome, thanks.

And the plate slipped over with the rod in place already, otherwise it was going to be fiddly.

Firstly, thank you all for your replies. Much appreciated, and good to know I was on the right track. Big shout out to my local firm HOP ENGINEERING in Staplehurst, who not only rustled up a brilliant solution, but even visited my house to see the problem first hand. How many firms can you find these days that will do that, and make it in 24 hours. Needless to say it works, and we have heat!

Just took ownership of a house with a woodburner, no baffle plate. Rear sticker says it is a Warmland Gothic Multifuel, EN 13240 2001. Can't get hold of the company (disolved 2015) or any company that does spare parts. Can anyone help with this, all advice welcome. Do I go to an ironmonger and get one made, trouble is I don't have a picture of what they should be making...