Jimmy101

Cheers for this. It seems ok as long as i open the door steady but there isnt much of a lip to prevent ash falling out so hoping the supplier pulls their finger out and sends me the part sharpish. On a plus side its easy to get the fire going as there's nothing in the way of the primary air vent it goes like crazy if I don't throttle it.

Hi All, Ive purchased a wood conversion kit for my stove and removed the multi fuel grate ready for it arriving this aft. Ive gone to install it and found the log catch bar they've sent must be for a larger stove as it clearly doesn't fit. My main question is can i run my stove without this in while they send me the right part? Presumably it does what it says on the tin and is there to prevent any logs rolling out? If i take extra care and dont let the ash build up too far is this likely to be ok?

Had a go at this method and quite liked it. Found it difficult to fit the bottom logs in due to the size and how narrow the fire bed is but I've just split a load of logs down so can have another go with those. The multifuel grate reduces the fire bed size and im contemplating converting it to wood only.

The issue i am having is as soon as i open the tertiary (Sa) plate on the back regardless of where its set doesn't seem to provide the effect i am after, if anything it decreases the performance of my fire. This is why i ended up shutting it becuase the fire was performing better without. My main issue with the Sa open any amount is that the kindling burns so rapidly that its basically gone by the time my smaller logs on the top have even had chance to ignite. If i reduce the Aa to combat this for a steadier burn then this starves the fire of the oxygen it needs at this stage. It really looks to me as though the air is getting in but is just getting sucked up the flue instead of circulating the firebox. Would a flue damper perhaps help the firebox retain some heat and help the air get to where it needs to? Or does this then prevent as much air getting in as well? At the end of the day the fires im getting arent horrendous. I can get it running at a good temperature .but im just not getting the burn characteristics i would expect and dont feel like i have any control over the burn rate with the air controls. Over the course of the night the fire dies because the logs arent burning down to a decent set of embers for the next logs to be added and they dont burn evenly at all. Overall i appreciate its a balancing act but it seems to be too much faffing about at the minute and i just cant put my finger on it.

Couple of videos of mine going this eve. Tertiary air plate on the rear is shut in both videos. Primary vent also shut in both. I tried with tertiary cracked but it seems to have the opposite effect of what you would expect. First video is with air wash fully open VID_20201128_180526.mp4 Second video is with airwash set about 25% open. It only needs to be nudged a tiny bit more closed and no air gets in and it dies off. VID_20201128_181528.mp4

Not that im aware of if i shut all my vents it definitely kills the fire. This is why im confused as i would expect to open the tertiary and it increase the burn rate but it does the opposite really.

The flames on yours look so much slower and darker orange than mine. My flames tend to be quite yellow but really turbulent almost as if the air Is blowing them about. Im starting to wonder if my firebed is too narrow for some of the logs im putting on. The logs only tend to ignite underneath and at the back. Because its a slimline stove and has a multifuel grate it doesn't actually leave a massive asive amount of room. If you get the wood only version of this stove you can get a miltifuel conversion kit. Im wondering if i can convert this one to wood only which would give me a bigger area. Ive toyed around with the tertiary and the more i open it the worse the fire gets. The kindling burns like mad but then it burns that fast the logs haven't ignited before the bed of embers is virtually gone. Ive shut it again now but im still convinced something isnt right. Having said that on some occasions i have a brilliant fire and cant put my finger on what i did differently.

Thanks guys, To be fair this will only be our second winter in the house so im definitely still getting used to it. Last year i made the fatal mistake of buying logs that were too wet but im definitely getting there now. I had always been closing the primary air down once lit but was thinking something seemed off by the fact it actually works better if i close it down as soon as the kindling is going rather than the logs. It didnt quite fit with what the manual suggested but I guess if it works just go with it.

Cheers for all the info Yeah there are a row of horizontal lines at the back when fully open these looked almost as if the flame was being split by the air coming in you can see the little holes through the flames if that makes sense? Yeah it's multifuel, i have a decent bed of ash ontop of the grate and there is only a small hole that air could get under. Is it just worth letting the ash pan build up to the grate and then just occasionally remove some ash from above? Its almost as if the tertiary air is providing too much to get the fire going but then once up and running the secondary isn't quite providing enough on its own at times. Some times logs burn right through and others they can smoulder a bit. Ill try the tertiary cracked a small amount today and see how it goes.

Yeah its adjustable by loosening a bolt and then covering as much of the hole up as you choose. I can only really move it when the fire is cold due to it being on the back so its trial and error . Ive got it fully shut at the minute but may try it cracked a tiny bit to see what happens as it didnt work fully open. Im getting much better fires going following the flue sweep and replacing a gasket in the secondary air vent whicu crumbled to bits when i touched it. Im getting a good 1h to 1h20 out of two logs and the temp is fine but it never seems to get to the point of using the secondary vent to control the burn rate. Perhaps i dont need to bother though.

Yeah

Hi All, I moved into a house a year ago that has a Parkray Consort Slimline 5 installed that was left by the previous owners. I've been having some issues with it and I can't seem to find much information that relates to the specific problem I'm having online so could do with some guidance from someone who has the experience. I have recently had the flue swept and have replaced the secondary air & glass gasket as well as the door rope seal to ensure everything is up to scratch. The manual is extremely vague on the tertiary air inlet on the rear of the stove which is controlled by adjusting a blanking plate to control the air flow. This is fixed once set and the primary and secondary air vents are used to light and control the burn. Logic says the more the tertiary inlet is open the more oxygen gets to the fire and the logs will burn faster but if I open the tertiary air vent at all it's almost as if my wood burner starts to pull that much air in all the heat and oxygen just gets sucked straight up the flue. With the tertiary vent open the kindling burns like mad and has disappeared before the logs have even had chance to ignite. To get my fire lit properly I am also having to close the primary air pretty much as soon as the fire lighter is lit, if I leave this open then the fire struggles to get up to temperature again as if the heat is all being lost up the flue. I found this out accidentally the other day when I lit a fire without realising I had left the primary air shut but it happened to light better than I've ever done it before. Once the fire is going I am also finding that I have very little control while using the secondary air vent. I bought some kiln dried logs just rule out any issues with moisture content but the secondary air vent is pretty much always fully open while in operation with any reduction in air seeming to kill the fire off quite quickly. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks James