Phil H
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Posts posted by Phil H
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Thanks for the help, an arbtalk link popped up on fb, so followed it and now registered on the tip site and drink paid [emoji106]
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Thing is if I remove arbtalk from tapatalk, then click on a google link it opens arb in tapatalk!
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Thankyou, the problem is, whenever I try to open in web view, it tried to divert default to the tapatalk app & closes, same with a google search.
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Thread hijack, could someone point me to the arbtalk tip site section please. I have looked through thecsub sections to no avail, viewing on tapatalk btw.
Ta, Phil -
I expect you argue conscientiously.
Nah, the wife won't let me!- 1
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Also check out Smith & Allan (based in Darlington but do mail order and some listed on ebay ),
I've been using their oils for decades (agriculture, motorbikes & car/van). Good stuff at a good price, unfortunately their website isn't the best. -
I'd jump at that if you were closer.
For those offering £150/day for a semi skilled contentious grafter give me a shout (N.Yorks/Cleveland).- 1
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Yes, after the dirty fuel episode & been temperamental since.
Actually, I ran it for 15 mins or so yesterday and all ok but drawing lots of air today for some reason! -
The air is drawing from the carb when the bulb is released but no fuel/bubbles flow back towards the carb (only flow towards the tank) when the primer bulb is pressed so it to be working correctly
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A slow release of the pump no/little air, fast release =lots of air.
Numerous pumps make no difference, one or two slow pumps makes it air free again.
Must be the carb then, I just wanted confirmation that I'm not missing something obvious. -
Yes but they appear good & are tight onto the carb stubs, I have trimmed a bit off tge ends.Are they the original or oem fuel lines?
No air is drawn into the carb via the tube from the tank but air is coming out of the stub that goes to the bulb when the bulb is released. -
Doubt it nipped up, engine starts and runs sweet, the problem appears to stem from air being drawn into the carb.If he, the borrower bloke , used old shite fuel it might have nipped up . have a look at the piston through the exhaust .- 1
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The stubs are different sizes, fuel tube from the tank flows into the uppermost stub on the carb.just another thought, the fuel hose with fuel filter on the end, which connection on the carb have you connected it to?
The tube that flows from carb to primer bulb is a smaller diameter and is half way down the carb.
Pic of actual carb attached.
I have owned the saw from new, ~10 years, it has done very little (occasional home use) and was spot on until the neighbour used it & put bad fuel in it a couple of years ago.
I'm suspecting a poor quality (ebay) carb kit but want to eliminate other issues first -
When cold, yes the primer bulb is fairly full & the saw runs fine.Regardless of the bubbles does the bulb 1/4 fill? and does the machine run at all?
When hot (say after 5 or 10 mins cutting) the saw will bog/cut out, primer bulb struggles to pull fuel & the saw won't run but is ok again when cold. -
A strip/check and all looks perfect and clean but still drawing air from somewhere on the carb. A slow release on the primer draws bubble free fuel from the carb, release it quickly and the pipe from carb to primer is full of bubbles.
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A quick look-see yesterday, all spotless inside, all looks ok apart from there was no washer under the screw that holds the top of the carb on - presumably this is required & a potential source of my issues?
Hopefully give it a whirl today. -
Thanks for the info.
Ill order a kit then have another look at the carb.
Cheers Phil -
How do you check they are the right way round?
Who are suppliers of quality Walbro carb kits? -
It's not mounted to the carb directly, a pipe draws fuel from the carb, through the bulb then from bulb to the tank.Is this a remote purge bulb or connected to the metering side of the carb?
The saw can prime & run fine when cold, when hot will cut out & primer bulb draws lots of air & the saw won't start.
The pipes look ok with no splits. -
Hi, sorry, I rushed the end of the first post.
When cold, the primer can work fine, when warm draws air, this is drawing air from the carb ie air is drawn in somewhere before the primer, probably the carb.
Either I installed something with the carb kit incorrectly or a poor quality (ebay) carb kit? -
A small 14" Homelite owned from new (c10 yrs) ran great for the 8 or so yrs occasional use until I let a neighbour use it..... I supplied premixed fuel, came back not running, dirty fuel in the tank (not from my fuel)
I cleaned the Walbro carb, flushed the tank ran ok but would die, & primer bulb drew air, I fitted a carb kit (ebay) but it's still drawing air,
Any input welcome along with suppliers of 'quality' aftermarket carb kits.
Cheers Phil
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There were a few ibc's listed for free in Malton on fb market place last week....
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What is the blue book that you refer to, out of interest?Bearing in mind I don't sell or buy hardwood just collect for my own use, though in the past I did commercial work on dryers and chip stoking boilers, hence my interest in the science, I take what I can get, and don't turn my nose up at softwood. Felled in winter it can have a low moisture content and it does dry fast once split.
Anyway the basic density of pine and oak from the blue book says 350 kg and 540 kg oven dry timber per m3. As pine is a slightly higher calorific value I would suggest when buying by cubic metre bulk loads the ratio should be about 70% the price of oak for similar heat output at the same moisture content. It will be lower for spruce.
Wanted free logs, massive drop point on drive
in Firewood forum
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