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Phil H

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Posts posted by Phil H

  1. A slow release of the pump no/little air, fast release =lots of air.
    Numerous pumps make no difference, one or two slow pumps makes it air free again.
    Must be the carb then, I just wanted confirmation that I'm not missing something obvious.

  2. Are they the original or oem fuel lines?
    Yes but they appear good & are tight onto the carb stubs, I have trimmed a bit off tge ends.
    No air is drawn into the carb via the tube from the tank but air is coming out of the stub that goes to the bulb when the bulb is released.
  3. If he, the borrower bloke , used old shite fuel it might have nipped up . have a look at the piston through the exhaust .
    Doubt it nipped up, engine starts and runs sweet, the problem appears to stem from air being drawn into the carb.
    • Like 1
  4. just another thought, the fuel hose with fuel filter on the end, which connection on the carb have you connected it to?
    The stubs are different sizes, fuel tube from the tank flows into the uppermost stub on the carb.
    The tube that flows from carb to primer bulb is a smaller diameter and is half way down the carb.

    Pic of actual carb attached.

    I have owned the saw from new, ~10 years, it has done very little (occasional home use) and was spot on until the neighbour used it & put bad fuel in it a couple of years ago.

    I'm suspecting a poor quality (ebay) carb kit but want to eliminate other issues first78b35e613bcea5263d0cd45e8b9ed3a8.jpge03effff83afa3d3f38e5ee5497286e5.jpg
  5. Regardless of the bubbles does the bulb 1/4 fill? and does the machine run at all?
    When cold, yes the primer bulb is fairly full & the saw runs fine.
    When hot (say after 5 or 10 mins cutting) the saw will bog/cut out, primer bulb struggles to pull fuel & the saw won't run but is ok again when cold.
  6. A strip/check and all looks perfect and clean but still drawing air from somewhere on the carb. A slow release on the primer draws bubble free fuel from the carb, release it quickly and the pipe from carb to primer is full of bubbles.

  7. A quick look-see yesterday, all spotless inside, all looks ok apart from there was no washer under the screw that holds the top of the carb on - presumably this is required & a potential source of my issues?

    Hopefully give it a whirl today.

  8. Is this a remote purge bulb or connected to the metering side of the carb?
    It's not mounted to the carb directly, a pipe draws fuel from the carb, through the bulb then from bulb to the tank.

    The saw can prime & run fine when cold, when hot will cut out & primer bulb draws lots of air & the saw won't start.
    The pipes look ok with no splits.
  9. Hi, sorry, I rushed the end of the first post.
    When cold, the primer can work fine, when warm draws air, this is drawing air from the carb ie air is drawn in somewhere before the primer, probably the carb.
    Either I installed something with the carb kit incorrectly or a poor quality (ebay) carb kit?

  10. A small 14" Homelite owned from new (c10 yrs) ran great for the 8 or so yrs occasional use until I let a neighbour use it..... I supplied premixed fuel, came back not running, dirty fuel in the tank (not from my fuel)

     

    I cleaned the Walbro carb, flushed the tank ran ok but would die, & primer bulb drew air, I fitted a carb kit (ebay) but it's still drawing air,

    Any input welcome along with suppliers of 'quality' aftermarket carb kits.

     

    Cheers Phil

    • Like 1
  11. Bearing in mind I don't sell or buy hardwood just collect for my own use, though in the past I did commercial work on dryers and chip stoking boilers, hence my interest in the science, I take what I can get, and don't turn my nose up at softwood. Felled in winter it can have a low moisture content and it does dry fast once split.
     
    Anyway the basic density of pine and   oak from the blue book says 350 kg and 540 kg oven dry timber per m3. As pine is a slightly higher calorific value I would suggest when buying by cubic metre bulk loads the ratio should be about 70% the price of oak for similar heat output at the same moisture content. It will be lower for spruce.
    What is the blue book that you refer to, out of interest?

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