bettybobbymeggie

I know what I have done wrong and it was really stupid. I pressed the bearings into each half of the crack case but then instead of pressing against the bearings to press the two halves onto the crack shaft I instead pressed the case itself together - meaning the bearings have now shifted from their earlier position. Stupidly I even ran the thing before realising my stupidity...I am about to strip down the top end to gauge the damage from my stupidity. **EDIT** Ignore this. Checked the way I had the press set up and it was correctly aligned with the bearings and wasn't pressing the case - must have been dreaming when I wrote the post earlier. Checked the saw over and it is fine - crank is bob on central. Getting old!

Evening all, Finally got my hands on the parts for the saw and it was warm in the shed so got everything back together. The main issue is, as predicted above, the position of the crank without special tools. I pressed the bearings into each half of the crank but then as I went to reassemble the case with the crank in place I could see the bearings move out as I pressed the crank case together. Am I ok to make minor adjustments at this stage (i.e. tap the bearings back into place) or do I need to split the crank and start again? Thanks for your patience!

D'oh - too late for me now. Thankfully I have a working identical model 61 so I should be OK to take that as a guide. Thanks for all the tips - I will let you know how it goes.

I will think about the Meteor kit, but at £20 for the chinesebay I think I have decided already. Sorry, I am a tight@rse. Looking at ADW's advice above, would it make sense to tap the bearings into position on the crank and then assemble the case around that? That way I know the bearings are in the right position. Or am I missing something?

Thanks Spud - I have seen worse but I have realised I don't have the right replacement piston anyway (48mm vs 52mm?) so I may as well buy the set. Gonna have to go Chinese though - budget won't stretch to what will just be a hobby saw. Edit: only just read ADW's post - thanks for all the tips - I will need to re-read all that once the bits arrive!

Afternoon all, I checked the bar plate - it was bent but was not the cause of the noise. Thanks for the tip though! Stripped down the saw and could see the bearing cage missing on the clutch side as suggested by spud (thanks!) - this came to pieces as I split the crankcase. The crank looks in good shape other than a bit of scoring on one lobe where it has contacted the case (hence the noise). Now waiting for the new bearings to arrive (will change the oil seals and swap the piston too). I have the gasket set which I have had for at least ten years so hoping it will be in good enough shape with the help of a spot of wellseal! Thanks for the tips so far - any other gotcha's? Cheeers, Jake.

There's a thought! I will take a look at that too, thanks!

Thanks for your reply. No I know the lumpiness from the coil magnet but its the click of a bearing I can hear when I turn it. I was hoping I could replace them without splitting the case though, damn!

I was just going to do it to diagnose the problem but it sounds like the bearings are shot so I will skip that. Good tips, thanks. I'll have a look tomorrow. Moving. Thanks for the help!

Evening all, This is my first post on this forum. I have an old Husky 61 (c.1987) that starts and runs but it is noisy - the usual clatter you get on tickover from the clutch with the brake off is normal for this saw but with the brake on it tick's over quietly. The noise I don't like comes at full throttle and sounds rough. I have removed the cylinder and piston which was lightly scored and will be replaced. I am doubtful this is the source of the noise which I think is lower down. The crank itself has no play at all and the needle bearing feels good. The only thing I noticed is if I turn it over by hand (piston off so just moving the crank shaft with my fingers on the piston rod - clutch and flywheel still in place) I can hear the ball bearings clicking into place - are these not quite tightly packed? I have a second 61 (c.1986) which runs sweet and is actually the saw I did my Lantra training with. I was wondering if it would be an idea if I swapped the top end and piston to see if that eliminated the noise? Apologies for the stupid questions, any suggestions would be welcome! Thanks, Jake.