Wonkydonkey

As with most things, the best is seen after the undressing, and I bet the next two cuts are the best, i bet that crutch looks lovely ?

Btw. I've milled, and the best is seeing it  like no one else's has before 

Thanks for confirming that spud,, it means I do know somthing, other than ??

I thought that was the norm with these 200's, I think it's all down to the bearings with the side to side floating, Iirc needle bearings.. It is if there is any  up and down play. which is a no no.

if the pressure & vac test is good and the compression test is good, I'd leave it as it is.

but I'm happy to be told I don't know cr@p ?

Cheers

My guess is, either your bar groove is worn excessively, or you got the wrong gauge chain for the bar.

ie a tight chain cuts straight, once used and warmed up, the chain slackens and then cuts wonky ?

Just whata ever u got to chop it, ie the smallest saw and a bigest bar, I used  a 260 with 3/8 and 25” bar as I had to hold it above head height to cut the top.. I did a walk past on each side

but your mileage may vary. 

The sides are much more easy, 

I’ve attacked a big hedge  with a chainsaw, cos it was to thick for the hs45. but I only did 2 sides not 3. The next yr I did the other side

You will get a lot of growth  once cut back so you will have to keep cutting it to keep the shape you want.

and yep as others say cut back to more then you got a place to keep it to. And be able to use the hedge trimmer with ease.

I know my potatoes,,, so what’s in a 395 and a 880, porting wise,  

I forgot the Xtra Plastic 3120

Umm, by who is what I was gonna ask ??

after all all there are porters, and porters , just go to any hotel and you’ll see. Muscle Mary’s and fairies, so to speak..?

My 260,s chain used to run on a bit longer than it should have after I decelerated. It also was a bit crap at starting in a cut if the revs were not high. New springs helped.

i see spud jumped in while I was typing, great minds think alike ?

Un till you look, you prolly don’t know, it’s a good chance it’s just warn springs, that are cheap, 

i see stubby has beaten  me 

But You should replace all springs even if one is broken 

Have you had the plug out, looked at the colour and checked the gap.

Sounds like you got a clutch prob as well, if the tick over is low and chain runs.

i'm sure there's many possibilities of reasons as to why. But as said before simple to take exhaust off and look at rings/piston (are they gummed etc,) take a pic if your not sure. While the exhaust is off you can look into the spark plug hole and observe  other places within the cylinder.

thats my 2p worth.

cheers

I’ve just been thinking about this, wouldn't it be easier to get the number from your cover, then quote this to your local stealership and say you want a set of big dawgs.. ?

Well according to my ipl there are two types depending on you cover,  but I would say 13 part no 122 664 0506

unless you you got a cover with a flap at the bottom1122 664 0506

I was being nice to this taxi, he came around a corner and slid into this car, I gave him a pull away from the other car, so as to not slide along the side of it even more.

oh I wash I had not bothered, the guy couldn't drive for toffee on snow. 

at first when I started pulling, he left the hand break on. Then after me shouting out my window, he took it off. Then as I pulled him away he drove with his foot fully off the clutch and full lock on tickover

You can guess what was about to happen.  He  almost just slid back into the next car... But my tow rope (which was doubled up to shorten it) stopped him.

anyhow, after me getting out and explaining not to drive like he did,  I repositioned myself and this time I got him on to the correct side of the road.

then off I went to the next victim. 

That was my shed,  the the...... Little runt, will get his day, maybe not by me but someone will make him pi$$ his pants...or better!

Just a heads up,,,,,, if you don't know !? Not realised...?

You got a mill with rollers,,, yep I guess you seen them. BUT.. If you don't Kleen the last cuts $havings/$hit it will roll on up onto them and your next cut, and every other cut will be less level/straight, unless if you were to keep putting/fixing a ladder bacon on the top. Which will just add more time to your day.

cheers

If it was my shared path, I'd get the so called delivery guys to clear it and put it in front of the said pub... And state the delivery guys said they need a clear passage, other wise if there's blame there's a claim!

Yeh but that's like discovering what a real sharp Chain cuts like when you borrow a mates saw,  then you realise you been doin it wrong, for how many yrs

i'm always up for learning that someone else can teach you a new trick..

Umm cheesy  on toast for me tonight, I think I'll  pass on the boiled trotters this time.

on a side note feet/foot are one of the worse fractures, that's why ski boots are so high, 

sounds like your on the road to recovery, one step at a time so to speak.

Just to have somthing to ponder on.

say I want to hang a bird box on said tpo tree. To in courage birds. 

How  would I best  go about this without hurting the tree.

well when we milled up that 30-odd inch oak tree, we found some darn 4" nails in the middle,  all incased by the tree. I don't think it hurt the tree.. But it sure hurt the chain.

You can send a small engine via UPS. but for some reason you can't send a chainsaw. 

I cant ant figure it out why a chain makes a engine not allowed..

I don't know what wood you want to mill, IE green or seasoned.. But like Rough H says 20" would be ideal due to losing 5" -ish to the nose bar clamp.

we have milled cheesnut with a 440  25" bar Iirc. and a few other small things with a 036  which was wearing an 18"  bar. The 036 was a more than bit underpowered . The 440 was better irc.

both saws were using std 3/8 and 10* so you using a 3/8 lo pro would be better.

the only thing  I can say is if the length of bar is an issue with the wood and what the saw can take  IE it's not long enough.

is to do the first cut deep enough so when you turn the wood 90* your bar is able to cut through the wood.

as for the rest like power of electric to fuel  idk..but I do know noodling requires less power compared to ripping. 

prolly best to try and find someone with all the kit and a small saw. And see if it can do what you think you will need.

cheers

preproduction saws are made perfect, tested etc and put through the epa. The saws we get are mass produced, as you prolly know these saws have manafacturing tolerances. Which means every saw is slightly different.  You must have seen a really sloppy Friday saw.

just by cleaning these sloppy tolerances up, you can get a better running saw. How many saws  straight out the box  have a goodish squish of 20/25thou, fuel in the squish Is unburnt so the bigger the squish the more wasted fuel.

the timing is another big subject. 

and while the guys sorting a few things out, he can add a bit more of his magic,  which will give it a bit more, 

cheers ?

Looks to me like,,,,, the cutters/teeth are still not at the angle best suited for milling. My first cuts were like that, they got better once the teeth were 10 or less degrees

and yeah less sea sawing like rough-boy-hewn says?. Its prolly down the rakers to high and angle of teeth..etc.

cheers

I know who you were referring to (mr c) lol...  His  name is Livin up to his reputation 

Anyhow I'm fine, I've been making more white lightening from my orchard, 

best not hijack this thread. Otherwise, I'll get flamed. ?