JamesNYorkshire

Check the needle bearing isn’t worn or disintegrated... I kept having the same issue with mine and got through quite a few e clips and washers... If it’s the same problem I had it’s easily resolved by switching to a spur sprocket

James

Seems to be running great so will leave it as is and check the plug, the H screw was obviously set very rich (multiple full turns...) by whoever last adjusted it so I think that was probably the issue.

Thank you for your help and yes you definitely know what you’re doing ??

Carb adjustments are pretty new to me as  I’m 21 and all the saws I’ve ever done proper maintenance on have been Stihl M-tronic.

Thanks again,

James

6 hours ago, Stubby said:

Post . I posted my saws to Steve .

Good point, seem to have sorted it now but will definitely consider it if I have any more problems ?

James

Right, have done as you said and turned L and H screws in as far as they would go (It seems the screws went in a lot further than I thought they did previously) then out 1 1/4 turns and it now idles great! So thank you very much!

It seems to run normally, accelerates well and returns to idle quickly with no significant smoke so should I leave it as it is or try and fine tune it? The (almost new) spark plug was completely black so it was obviously running pretty rich anyway (hadn’t adjusted the H at all until this point) Is it worth changing the plug to see how it looks after running for a bit?

Thanks, 

James

Right, sounds like a good plan of action, will have a look at all that tomorrow, thank you for your help.

Unfortunately I’m a bit far from Hertfordshire!

Thanks again, 

James

24 minutes ago, spudulike said:

Just read back through the thread, it is a Husky 350....not a bad saw but can have issues. The impulse connector on the inlet manifold/boot tends to split or get squashed when being rebuilt by the inexperienced. Also, the saw can get air leaks where the cylinder mount meets the engineered plastic bottom end. The plastic tends to warp and cause leaks, you can usually tell when doing a leak down test.

Yes, and confusingly I’ve somehow ended up discussing the same thing on two threads... Is that sort of thing fixable? I think I’d need to take it to a dealer anyway if it’s something like that... Will try adjusting the H screw (after checking spark plug...) and a couple other bits I can do, if none of them work I’ll take it in.

Bit of a pain really as I only bought it as a cheap back up saw and it ran fine when I tried it out... (Only paid £80 for it so not too bad I suppose)

On 24/02/2018 at 14:04, Gray git said:

Take my landy as an example
Last mot it failed as the seat belt mounts on the rear seats were badly rusted and needed to be replaced and welded in. This ment lifting off the rear body, chopping out a crossmember and welding in a new one.
Garage wanted nearly a grand to do this so I drove it back to the yard and did it in less than a day myself costing little more than my time but now if the tester deemed this a major safety issue then I'd have either had to pay a lot for them to do it or arrange a large recovery truck to transport it back for me to do the work and then again to take it back even though it had no affect on me driving the vehicle safely.

Bizarrely if you’d just removed the rear seats I don’t think it would have been part of the test (seatbelts aren’t where there’s no corresponding seat, not 100%  sure on mounts) and therefore it would have passed if that was the only issue...

1 minute ago, spudulike said:

That stalling is probably the L screw being a bit lean, the H screw too rich making the saw load up under load or a bit of an air leak.

Have tried various positions on the L and idle screws but it hasn’t helped (plus it’s hard to adjust properly when the saw won’t idle normally...) hadn’t really thought of adjusting the H screw tbh, will try leaning that up a bit tomorrow and see if it helps. If tha doesn’t help I guess I’ll have to look for an air leak. There does seem to be quite a lot of buildup in the muffler (from what I can see through the exhaust port), do you think there’s any chance that could be causing it?

Thanks, James

40 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

Are all the clutch springs present?

Yes they were and have now put a new clutch in anyway (as well as needle bearing etc.) so I know it’s not clutch related.

47 minutes ago, peatff said:

The cutting out sounds like you need to adjust the L screw out a bit for more fuel and then adjust the tickover accordingly.

Have tried various different positions for both L and idle, will have another go tomorrow, problem is it’s a bit difficult to adjust properly when I can’t get it to idle normally (only “fast idle” when starting up).

From what I can see looking through the exhaust there does seem to be some deposits in the muffler so I’m going to see if I can sort that too.

James

Having finally removed the clutch and replaced it as well as the sprocket, needle bearing, air filter and fuel filter it still stalls after coming off the throttle whatever I do with the L and idle carb adjustments... 

Next I’m planning to clean the carb and either clean or replace the muffler... Is there anything else I should be checking that could be the cause of this?

Thanks, James

Problem solved, clutch removal tool arrived today and after quite a bit of effort managed to get the clutch off to replace it... Still not solved the issue of the saw stalling after coming off the throttle though...

Wish mine would snap if that would make it easier haha, removal tool ordered anyway so hopefully I’ll be able to remove it with that...

Yes I know it’s a left hand thread and using paracord so basically the same as starter cord, will order the tool and I guess I may as well order a new bearing as I assume it’s probably disintegrated and that’s why the clutch is so stuck....

James

Anyone got any tips on removing an incredibly stubborn clutch on a husky 350? Have tried hammer and punch and it won’t budge at all... Have tried to lever it off with vise grips, adjustable spanner’s, pipe wrenches and combinations of all three and still won’t move a millimetre...

is the Husky clutch removal tool worth getting?

Thanks, James

6 minutes ago, bmp01 said:

Yes,  it could be. 

But have you considered the obvious? Is the clutch spring weak,  causing the clutch weights to expand / engage the clutch drum at a to low speed ?

 

 

I don’t know to be honest, I’m used to stihl clutches and in general I just do the basics of maintenance, it’s one of these kind of clutches.... https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/clutch-assembly-for-husqvarna-340-350-355-chainsaws.html 

and I still can’t get it off anyway...

Should probably add that I can only start it on “fast-idle” (choke out then in before starting) or whatever it’s called, can rev it as much as I like but as soon as I let go of the throttle it cuts out...

2 minutes ago, Stubby said:

Dont forget its a LH thread .

Yes, am trying to loosen it clockwise, think I might have get one of husky’s clutch removal sockets and hammer on the wrench for some leverage... 

Do you think it could be a disintegrated bearing that’s causing it to cut out?

Having a similar problem with a second hand Husky 350, it cuts out as soon as I come off the throttle, air filter is clean and have tried adjusting the L and idle screws.

The clutch does seem to be creating quite a lot of heat, though it’s on so tight I can’t get it off to check the bearing...

I prefer the regular husky helmets, tried the technical but didn’t really like it, might try out switching the visor and ear defenders as suggested and see how I like it... It seems the HSE say that using a climbing lid on the ground is fine by the way... http://www.hse.gov.uk/treework/safety-topics/chainppe.htm

23 hours ago, outonalimb said:

Very surprised that this clutch drum problem would show up on the new model after all the ongoing publicity for this fault. The needle bearing itself is common to many other stihls none of whom seem to have this trouble.   One of the original theories was that the drums were not perfectly round in some cases causing the early failure of the bearing (your saw sounds suspiciously like this) . It seems rediculous that you have had to resort to a technically inferior drum to resolve this issue.

I think you could be right.. At first when I took it in to the dealer he thought the clutch drum housing might of been slightly warped as there seemed to be a lot of heat being generated as well, however (after doing a bit of reasearch himself I think) he decided to change it to a spur sprocket which sorted the problem (if it had been the housing I can't see how that would of fixed it). If that's the case I suppose switching to an unaffected rim sprocket clutch drum would also have sorted the problem, although that might of been a bit 'hit and miss'.

James

(First post here guys) I've got a 2016 MS261 with the new style (not flat) clutch cover, early on I had a few needle bearings disintegrate and it would throw the e clip and washer, however after switching to a spur sprocket from the rim sprocket it was supplied with I've not had any problem with this at all.

James