Baggies

Hi,

 

Dunno if its worth considering a change to a .50" gauge B&C as its slightly heavier & will last longer?

 

The idea came to me whilst browsing tinterwebs and saw this Youtube video which explains the change over really well

 

 

 

N

That is interesting... Will certaining consider when bar needs replaced.

Hi,

 

Fairly sure your chain will be 3/8th low profile & they do tend to go dull quickly.

 

 

N

when you say quickly... What is normal, what is quick?

Oh other question: Are all stihl and oregon chains branded.. I have a chain that was sold "as Stihl", but has no markings on it.

So I have chain that was not cutting and did some hand filing (took me about 15 mins). When I tested, it cut but not as well as my other chain. Going to run over it again when I get a chance. How many sharpens do you get out of a file? I assume if the file is in a guide you need to turn it every so often?

Stihl chain oil is only £3.26 +VAT from L S Engineering. I Oregon actually any cheaper?

My chain is £16 all in..

Guys thanks for the helpful advice.... So much input in a short time.. amazin..

So what I am getting is in general stick to the better quality chains (stihl/oregon) (a few people suggest it might be work trying the cheaper).

For sharpening is "practice makes perfect" and just do it on the bar. Use hand file.

For the oil, quite a range of suggestions.. I guess my one question left.

Is there any reason why I can't use oregon oil on stihl? I mean are the chain specific. some people mention the sticky properties and maybe some chains behave better with than?

Interestingly nobody suggested any ebay sellers. I guess my concern is that many of these could sell fake..

I would love to take a course... Right now the chainsaw is trying to save money.. I get free would and burn the wood burner instead on oil. afford £300 would be tight but maybe one day.

Thanks for your comments so far.. welcome any further.

It's a bit ironic but the smaller your chainsaw the more sharpening you will have to do.

So the less experienced and interested you are in chainsaws the more hands on you have to provide.

 

So look at Rob's excellent videos on his website on sharpening chains. Its pretty easy and if you're not getting better results with a guide then you're doing it wrong. Stick to Stihl chain, its good and for the price saving not worth looking elsewhere.

 

Cutting with very small chains blunts very quickly but you'll need a much bigger saw before you start using 3/8 chain which lasts better.

Will check the videos thanks. I think my chains are 3/8 or is 3/8p different..

Thanks for advice.

You'll probably have the same type of caps that I have on the ms200t which turn, lock and then snap down. The oil filler cap on my Stihl can be awkward, and I do have to make sure it's closed properly. The saw does also leak a little from underneath too. Just one of those things I reckon. Probably the only way to overcome this is to empty the saw of oil once finished. Not so bad when using occasionally, but a PITA if using every day.

 

Generally, I would say your oil consumption is about right - or at least it's very similar to mine! A 5 litre tub will last for ages if just the occasional use, and so much cheaper to buy that way than in 1 litre containers. I generally pay about £16 for a 5 litre Oregon saw oil.

 

Re the 16" being slow going comment - this saw only has a small engine (30 ish cc's), and so if you try and use the entire length, or a good part of the bar, then the saw just won't have enough power to pull it through, making it cut slowly and strain the engine. I'd stick with 14" at the very max, and if you need to cut bigger stuff, either cut from both sides or buy a bigger saw (like a Husky of some sort!!!:😀)

Yes the turn and snap.. I am not sure why the oil one is harder than the petrol.... I wonder if damaged.. My oil no longer leaks.. Stihl dealer fixed for £16. Saves the oil now and the big stain on my bag and garage shelf.

I like the size. Nice to handle on the 14". Generally my wood is not to big.

Hi

 

1. Cheap chains are a complete waste of money

 

2. Just buy oil in 5 ltr, look for 150T oil as thats the tackiness index as I understand it

 

3. Chainsaw bars URL above & Postal chain sharpening service | F R Jones and Son

 

4. Learn how to sharpen chains by hand, grinders are too aggressive especially with small chains & every now & then send some to FR Jones to get the cutters ground to same length, they are really good.

 

5. Yes hand sharpen in situ on the bar & send to Jonsie every now and again

 

 

N

thanks, will book mark that link

If you did CS30 ( it might be called something else now ) It will teach you how to sharpen up but also it will teach you basic maintenance . Spinning the clutch off to change a drive sprocket , Maintain the clutch , change springs etc , oil, fuel and air filter checks spark plug etc etc . Might save you a few bob at the dealers if you can do basic maintenance also ?

It all sounds really helpful.. I guess you recoup some of it too in chains. Just costly. I am based in Northern Ireland and we do have a few places doing courses... I have seen some similar codes to their course... They seem set up for commercial, but I guess if I get fired from my current job I have another potential profession.

I have a MS211 with a 14 inch bar and Stihl chain. I use it to cut most of my smaller firewood. Present chain has kept me warm for a few years so no complaints. Do not let it get too blunt. I tend to give it a light sharpen every few tanks by which time it has cut a fair heap of wood. A few strokes is all you need.

Your not cutting on the ground are you? Quickest way to blunt a chain

Generally I try to cut suspended or sitting on other wood, and try to keep the nose clear.. Never had a kickback and don't want one. I do confess a few times I have hit soil and I didn't think it would blunt being so soft, but a few people have said that it does blunt so will have to keep it clear... Generally I try to keep it up.

Rob didn't mention this fine establishment, so I will:

Chains

 

Certainly buying 5L is cheaper than 1L. Plenty of makes other than Stihl if you want a change. As said above, learn to hand sharpen on the bar, will save you time and may save you money.

 

You didn't say which bar size you have. I'm going to stick my neck on the block and say that greater than 14", will be slow going with a MS171.

I noticed his subtle link at the bottom and checked it out. My best result have been by hand. I have a stihl hand guide and depth gauge. Was getting really bad result and then I chain the file and the next one was great.

The bar is 14". noticed on chainsawbars there are 4 types of stih bar.what do you mean by slow going?

On an MS171 could you just not stick to the Stihl bar oil? You could try other brands but that saw is not going to go through huge amounts of oil.

 

I could.. I had two issues with the saw that I was loosing oil.. One has been repaired (it was leaking from the bottom) and the other the cap when you thought it was on wasn't... Never had any issue with the petrol cap, just the oil, but several time I turned it upright to find the cap off and the oil leaking out.. I might by a new cap to see it it was the issue and the petrol was fine.

This has maybe given me the perception of going through oil. Generally every full petrol fill I need to fill 1/2 to 3/4 of oil.

I have seen the 5l of stihl for £12 to £20 and again trying to get best value for money without putting saw or me at risk.

Do a basic home owner chainsaw course . That will teach you to sharpen up properly and save you in the long run . . The esiest way to get it right would be to use an oregon file plate . Every 3rd sharpen take the depth gauges down other wise you will only get dust if anything .

The course I have seen are around £300. Obviously cheap if your at risk of loosing and arm. Expensive if your cutting time is maybe 20-30 hours a year.

Have never seen a home owner course.

Hi,

I wonder if some kind person/people can help with some basic questions.

I have had the ms171 for a few years and only bought stihl chains and oil for it to date.(although that is questionable as though ebay).

I was given an electric sharpener (semi auto) but not had great success with it, so have mostly sharpened by hand, but have been finding the cutting time not great for my chains. Have sent them off to get sharpened a few times, but all in all the cost of running the saw is a little higher than I would like.

I use it mostly for cutting up logs for my wood burning stove as a money saver so it's very casual use. Have been searching for new chains and oil online. Just concerned about quality.

So here are my questions:

1. I have seen some brands of chain for ￡6 ( archer and Holtham eg 1, 2 Or 3 Saw Chains Select The Stihl Chainsaw Model & Bar Length | eBay) and this is much cheaper than the ￡12-￡20 for the stilh. I am not concerned if they last just as long, as let's face it, if don't figure out the chain saw sharpener, I will likely balls the chain up myself sooner anyway. My concern is about the safety of the chain. Could it break? More kickback?

2. Chain oil. I have been buying 1 ltr, and found now their is also 5l which is cheaper. However I have only used stihl to date. There are loads of brands out there. Can you buy any brand? Want value for money.

3. Reputable places to buy: anyone suggests good websites or ebay shops that you can trust?

4. Chain sharpening: I tend to keep 3-4 chains so happy to post them away to sharpen. If the chain cost ￡6 no point paying ￡8 to sharpen though, but what to other people do?

Final question. Do you only hand sharpen the chain on the saw? Or can you buy something to hold the chain. I tend to sharpen all at once (and change when cutting) Its a pain having to refit the chain for every sharpen.

Many thanks